GP3 220 had issues if I developed it warmer than 70 degrees. DF96 has recommendations for 70, 75, 80. It actually looked really good at 70.
Films that are a no-go: Silberra Orta, Adox CMS, and I feel CatLabs 320.
@Dwight Anderson, it looks like you have found your personal EI and development technique...the "overexposed/underdeveloped" images look great.
@Huss, IIRC, didn't you have problems with Shanghai's GP3 220 in DF-96, also?
Those pics over the lake are so nice.
For our next attempt at shooting Catlabs 320 Pro...
Thanks for sharing all of this, Dwight. The pics look good to me! I think your results are dovetailing nicely with the analysis that aparat has done.For our next attempt at shooting Catlabs 320 Pro, I decided to over expose and under develop, at least based on the box recomendations. Meters were set to 100
This was way back in post #158 but I think @albada might be on to something here. Even with shortish development time and constant agitation (see my post #261 above), the highlights in ZVII and ZVIII are getting compressed. It's not a huge effect but I think we can see it in a lot of the awesome photographs posted here.
I see highlight compression in the last photo from @Dwight Anderson above. That enables midtone contrast to be higher, strengthening the above photos.
With compression of light tones, I wonder how caucasian skin-tones would fare. Does anyone want to try some shots of people?
Thanks for all the kind words, it was fun trying out new ideas. If not for this forum I would have just followed the box recommendations and decided the film wasn't for me. Now I feel like I've learned a new set of tools, which most of you probably already knew how to use.
I thought it was funny that we both took the same view of the lake, even though we weren't there at the same time. The barn door shot was planned though, to see how close our metering was.
So now that is three films for me that don't work well with DF96 - Catlabs 320, Silberra Orta, Adox CMS 20. Not sure of their bases.Huss you have highlighted a number of films that have problems in DF96 so can I ask: Are all of them on a polyester base?
Thanks
pentaxuser
Great photographs, especially those of the lake. It must be really inspiring to share photography with your partner.
Very interesting, thanks everyone for sharing experiences and especially fine quality images. The Lake Images certainly has changed my thoughts from 'meh, I'll try this film when I get a chance' to 'hmm I wonder how that mid-tone scale would look in my area/methods/chems".
Seems like the CatLABS guy falls in this group too since he told you you had no idea what you were doing in arriving at an approximate 80 film speed instead of the "EI ISO 320" on the box or 200 recommended on the website, and also insisted you develop the film for the 10 minutes he set out in his instructions rather the 8 minutes you used since your were using a rotary processor, which of course would have rendered the film even more contrasty than it already is. I don't know if the CatLABS guy has ever shot or processed the film either. Wouldn't surprise me in the least if he hasn't.There was a group of posters who insisted on following the manufacturer's recommendations, and refused to accept the fact that the film's speed and development time might be anything other than what's printed on the box, often before even shooting and processing a single roll. But, like virtually every other black and white film out there, it takes time and effort to figure it out.
I have this sneaky suspicion that the film speed(s) and development times come from the eminent photochemist James Lane since CatLABS is now carrying his 510 Pyro,
Even so, what do they gain by rating the film with a roughly 2 stop push, and NOT TELLING THE USER that's the case? It's very different from (current) manufacturer information for T-Max P3200 or Delta 3200, both of which the manufacturers admit are ISO 800-1000 but intended to be pushed.
Yeah. Either way, I've now got ten rolls of this stuff that might last me ten years, because I shoot a LOT more high speed film than medium speed. Or maybe I'll try a roll and find I like it (at EI 160 or so), now that I have the setup to haul my RB67 and tripod around. FWIW, I like 5222 very much at EI 400, so EI 320 for the Catlabs X might not be excessive after all...
Let us know how you like it.
In my experience, the dye released in the processing is somewhat dark, coolish, grey.
Thanks for sharing all of this, Dwight. The pics look good to me! I think your results are dovetailing nicely with the analysis that aparat has done.
My takeaway from the two Photrio threads is that this film is similar to Ferrania P30 in both speed and contrast, but is significantly cheaper. Not a bad thing at all.
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