Someone to build a lensboard for a Speed Graphic?

[tallenpatterson]

I've been making several changes to my Speed Graphic 4x5. I use the Aero Ektar lens on it almost exclusively. I've recently added a Toyo rotating back, doing the fabrications myself. Also added a leather handle that is a replacement for amps.

I picked up a cheap lens and wanted to give it a go, but am truly crashing and burning on the lensboard. Is there someone that makes these at a decent rate? The lens is a Konishiroku 21cm f/4.5. Might not even be worth the trouble, but was wanting to mess around with it.

Any thoughts?

 

[richyd]

I got some standard Copal sized boards from Etsy seller, DevelopStopFix. As far as I can determine they are well made from cast aluminium and are very reasonably priced.

 

[Jim Jones]

If you can improvise a rotating back for a SG, you can easily make a flat lensboard for your camera. You don't need the turned-down edges for a good light seal. A light seal cut to fit can be added behind a flat board in the style of older camera lensboards.

 

[tallenpatterson]

If you can improvise a rotating back for a SG, you can easily make a flat lensboard for your camera. You don't need the turned-down edges for a good light seal. A light seal cut to fit can be added behind a flat board in the style of older camera lensboards.

Thank you...the turned-down edge has been a struggle. Makes sense to me. Sometimes you get to overthinking...lol

 

[Leigh B]

A light seal cut to fit can be added behind a flat board in the style of older camera lensboards.

Sorry, Jim. Fundamental problem with such an approach.

Real original Graflex lensboards have small dimples top and bottom.
The retaining bars exert pressure on these to fully seat the board rearward.
This maximizes the efficiency of the seal with a lensboard having a turned-down edge.

A modern flat replica would likely not have those dimples.
The retaining bars would exert minimal if any rearward pressure in this situation.
So there's no force to push the flat board against the light seal, and it against the front standard.

- Leigh

 

[DWThomas]

I've never seen one close up, but I'd think one could embed a brass rivet (or escutcheon pin), a nylon roundhead screw, or drill part way thru and use a drop of epoxy to simulate the mechanical results of a dimple/pimple. (Never say never! )

 

[Ian Grant]

Heavystar on Ebay sells excellent Chinese made Pacemaker lens boards I've bought at least 6 from him and they have the raised dimples. Price is good as well, way below the second hand ones. You can find many others recommending these boards.

Ian

 

[shutterfinger]

I make my boards thick enough to just fit under the board locks which is a few thousands above the front standard edge.
I have used black ABS plastic and black Acrylic, and Birch plywood for lens boards. I prefer the plywood.
A hand saw, if you can cut straight, a jigsaw, table saw, or Dremel with cutting bits, routing bits, , router base, circle guide, or a drill with hole saws can be used to fabricate lens boards with.
I usually use 1/4 inch stock and trim down to just fit. 1/8 inch stock can be used and built up in layers to fit also. Simple to make but time consuming.

https://graflex.org/helpboard/
search the Speed Graphic Help section for lens board. be sure to select the all terms check dot.

 

[Jim Jones]

Sorry, Jim. Fundamental problem with such an approach.

Real original Graflex lensboards have small dimples top and bottom.
The retaining bars exert pressure on these to fully seat the board rearward.
This maximizes the efficiency of the seal with a lensboard having a turned-down edge.

A modern flat replica would likely not have those dimples.
The retaining bars would exert minimal if any rearward pressure in this situation.
So there's no force to push the flat board against the light seal, and it against the front standard.

- Leigh

In a flat aluminum board for a Pacemaker, dimples are easy to raise. The height can be controlled by forming them through a hole in solid material of the right thickness. Thicker aluminum is another solution, although the board locks could then scuff the surface of the lens board. As for needing to compress the board against its mount, why not use a compressible light trap behind the flat board? It's easier to improvise and thoroughly light tight.

 

[darkroommike]

Grimes and the Chinese shop mentioned above both make CNC boards, not cheap, but not that much more than original uncut boards for the Pacemaker model Speed and Crown (I have a couple somewhere but no interest in letting them go "cheap"), the Grimes board does not need "dimples" since it's made of thicker stuff.

I have also seen (somewhere) a file to make boards using a 3D printer with the usual caveat about finish and light blocking, any lensboard I 3D printed would get a couple of coats of black Krylon spray paint. I have made boards for my 3x4 Graphic (a much rarer beast) that are flat and have a step on the back of the board to trap photons. The board is a piece of wood grain Formica with a backer of thin plywood. I would not hang a heavy lens from it but it's fine for lighter lenses.

 

[Ian Grant]

Just to correct you Darkroom Mike the Chinese made boards Heavystar sells are an extremely good match to the original Graflex boards and $39 for 3 is a very reasonable price as well.

Both the Chinese and Grimes Pacemaker Graphic lens boards are pressings and have the dimple.

Ian

 

[Andy King]

Ebay sells customized lens boards for a decent price, or if you are into 3d printing you can design them or borrow already existing designs:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:719589

 

[darkroommike]

Just to correct you Darkroom Mike the Chinese made boards Heavystar sells are an extremely good match to the original Graflex boards and $39 for 3 is a very reasonable price as well.

Both the Chinese and Grimes Pacemaker Graphic lens boards are pressings and have the dimple.

Ian

Grimes says it's new boards are CNC here:
http://www.skgrimes.com/whats-new/2007-2/new-cnc-machined-pacemaker-lensboards

But also sells the regular boards.

The Heavystar boards may not be the ones I looked at but do look pretty good, I have plenty of 4x5 boards, it's the 3x4 boards that I had trouble finding, but I'm good there, too, for now.

Back to OP, I'm not sure what constitutes a cheap lens board (certainly NOT the CNC!) but there are plenty of used boards out there for not too much money, and since my Crown, Speed, Graphic View (with adapter) and Toyo Field all use the 4x5 Pacemaker board I think that's a good thing. If I had a beast like the Aero Ektar I'd want the heavy duty board for it.