Some quick thoughts on Double-X 5222 v. Tri-X

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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Agreed, and especially fans of Tri-X from before its most recent reformulation.

I was going to say that; Double-X has a bit of that old-timey grain I know from 1970s photos.
 

Bill Burk

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Meanwhile I am getting an EI of 2 on Super-XX expired 1945 and if I push it I get EI of 4
 

Donald Qualls

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Anybody wants to lend me their $1,000 X-Rite densitometer, and I'll clear my schedule.

Well, I haven't got one of those, but I recently bought a set of 46mm diopters, mainly as the cheapest way to get the +10. This, plus a steady light source and my Pentax 1/21 spotmeter, will make a poor man's densitometer. No, can't read to 0.1 density resolution, but I can read to 1/3 stop easily, and 1/6 with a little care; that's what, 0.2? The diopters cost about $14 shipped, and I've had the spotmeter for fifteen years and don't recall what I paid for it (surely wasn't much, I was more broke then than I am now). Spent $35 on it recently for a voltage regulator that lets me use a lithium coin cell in place of the PX640 mercury cell that was the original low voltage source; the 9V doesn't seem to matter (and is really only needed below EV 10, which is high enough density that best precision is less critical).
 

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I used 0.5 for Double-X and 1.5 for Tri-X. My paper is Kentmere RC VC, so the grades on another paper, let's say Ilford, would be slightly different.
Wow that is low for a print. If a newcomer to analogue were to have shown us his neg and print and said it was done at 0.5 I feel a few of the replies would have been along the lines of the print is fine but if it has this much contrast at only grade 0.5 then have a look at your negative. It might be over developed

I hasten to add this is not an attempt to liken you to a newcomer to analogue but seeing Donald's post on contrast makes me wonder if an inherent characteristic of Double-X is a propensity to high contrast. What it means is that there is very little leeway to drop grades further to change the look from the negative.

Just out of interest does the Double-X neg look a lot "thicker" than the Tri-X at the development times used?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 

Donald Qualls

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The one roll of Double-X I've processed (in then-fresh Df96) had pretty normal seeming contrast, at least for scans and by eye. That said, the Kodak-recommended developer for Double-X is D-96, which is a relatively low contrast developer (most cine specific developers are); it might well be that the D-76 or HC-110 will build contrast higher and needs to have time shortened to compensate.
 

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....the Kodak-recommended developer for Double-X is D-96, which is a relatively low contrast developer (most cine specific developers are); it might well be that the D-76 or HC-110 will build contrast higher.....
This is how I understand it. And this is why movie film ISOs need to be taken with a grain of salt when used as still films. The ISOs are tested rigidly, but for a different contrast in a different developer. Once you change the intended purpose of the film the ISO goes out the window and you just find an EI that delivers the results you're after. For what it's worth, most of the internet chatter I've read about 5222 leads to a general consensus that this film looks good in D-76 and Adox Borax MQ (which is, more or less, D-76 with less sulphite). My two years of playing with it have led me to the same conclusion. That's not to say that it can't look great in other developers but those two seem to be a very safe bet for getting good results.
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Bear in mind that, by the numbers (the ISO-R), Kentmere 0.5 is close to a grade 1.5 for Ilford MG IV RC, and to grade 0 for Ilford MG V RC.

So it depends what your baseline paper is.

As I said in my initial post, Double-X can build a lot of density (it's meant to be the source of transmission positives), so yes 0.5 for a straight print means a contrasty negative. I also chose a very bright sunny day, so the scene had high inherent contrast. But my negs are not bulletproof, just a touch denser than Tri-X.

As you can see I have both highlight and shadow detail and an overall contrast that feels natural. At 5 mins in D-76, the contrast is manageable, but I could go lower.

 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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D-96 seems to share many similarities with D-76, being a borax MQ. The metol-HQ ratio is lower in D-96 so I would expect more gentle activity.

With respect to contrast, Kodak gives times for 5222 to produce gammas between 0.50 and 1.05 (recommended gamma being 0.65).

I've ordered some bulk chemicals to try a few developer formulas, so I think I'll mix a small batch of D-96 to try on 5222.
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Well, I mixed a batch of D-96 and tried it on Double-X. I rated it at 250 in my Nikon F, and developed 7 mins in D-96 at 21C, agitation every 30 secs.

The negatives are looking great, maybe a tad less dense than in D-76. They're drying right now, I'll report when I print them...
 

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Looking forward to it!

The old Adox Borax MQ formula is very popular amongst users of this film. I have not tried it yet but I am pretty curious and plan to give it a whirl eventually. I like the idea of the reduced sulfite and would like to see the effects firsthand.
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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No scans yet, but I printed a few 8 x 10s tonight.

The grain is much more homogeneous and less coarse than with D-76. Now I see how Double-X and D-96 are made for each other. Seriously, it's worth a try.

Stay tuned!
 

Donald Qualls

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Now I see how Double-X and D-96 are made for each other.

From what I've read, this is literally true. D-96 was developed specifically for the Super-XX film of the late 1930s, which was the direct ancestor of the Double-X Negative cine film introduced in 1959 (and essentially unchanged to today, as far as I'm aware).
 

Bill Burk

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Anybody wants to lend me their $1,000 X-Rite densitometer, and I'll clear my schedule.
If you like, I could loan you my spare Marshall Studios densitometer. It’s basically a light bulb running back and forth between a 17 inch light path on a track driven by a pair of copper wires on pulleys. Nothing can go wrong with this densitometer. You look down at a mirror with a hole scratched in the silvering. The film sits under the hole. The light hits a 45-degree mirror under the film. On the back side light from the other side of the bulb hits two 45-degree mirrors and then comes down a tube to a lens and a 45-degree downward facing piece of glass. That last piece of glass shines the light from the tube down onto the mirror, that you look at through an eyepiece.

I like using these because I know they will work where I always wonder when electronics will fail on the Macbeth
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Interesting, are there any useful sources about D-96 available online? I haven't seen it mentioned in the usual suspects, so I thought it was a recent formula.
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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I am befuddled... how do you get a reading?
 

Bill Burk

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Another thought about why motion picture film is not rated with ISO.

ISO / ASA speed of film was devised to aim 7 2/3 stops of average subject luminance range with flare to give a negative that prints well onto grade 2 paper through a diffuse light source (enlarger or contact print).

Paper has a very pronounced s-curve and has limits to how black they can appear.

Cinematography is a different “application” and is aiming for a print film. So it’s a completely different print material.

I may get some fresh 5222 to test for speed that I get when developed to ASA parameters, (with the goal to print on grade 2 paper). In that case the value could be ISO under some bizarre circumstances. (If I were to sell you the remainder of a roll that I tested).
 

Bill Burk

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I am befuddled... how do you get a reading?
You drive the light bulb back and forth along a track until the spot seen through film matches the background field... there is a piece of metal attached to the carriage that points where you are, under the side of a long frosted glass ruler with density markings.
 
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Michel Hardy-Vallée

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I managed to take some macro shots of the print. Same as usual, Kentmere 8x10 VC in Dektol 1+2. I used a 1.5 filter.

Double-X was developed as per Kodak's recommendations in D-96 at 21C (not 20!) for 7 mins. I agitated every 30s.

On the light table, the negative looks beautiful, aesthetically pleasing as an object in itself. I have found my stash of 5302 and I think I will mix some D-97 and print this as a 35mm slide.

On the grain side, we're still talking subtle differences. I find the grain of D-96 to be less lumpy, more uniform. I'm not sure if I can say finer. I would say D-76 is crunchy peanut butter; D-96 is smooth PB. But I can clearly imagine the impact this difference would make in projection when grain is magnified and projected at 24 fps.

In conclusion: if you shoot Double-X, get thyself a scale and mix from scratch, or get a bag from Cinestill.

 

Bill Burk

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Nice! Is the grain finer than Tri-X and TMAX-400? I imagine the need for cinema to look good on screen has driven the need for speed up to 200 but audiences reject 400 in any form as too grainy.
 

Donald Qualls

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Double-X (in Df96 monobath, I've only done the one roll so far) at EI 400 gives grain that seems very similar to what Tri-X gave in the 1990s. I have five rolls of new fresh-dated Tri-X in 120, but haven't even opened the box yet. It's been my understanding, however, that Tri-X benefited along with most other Kodak still film stocks (B&W and color) from the formate doping discovery/patent, allowing double speed with the same grain (or same speed with significantly finer grain). That to say, modern Tri-X is most likely significantly finer grained that what I've got experience with. Double-X, on the other hand, is claimed to be effectively unchanged since 1959. It might well be that due to technology changes, fresh Double-X will give coarser grain at "box speed" (EI 200-250) than modern Tri-X at its box speed.

I will say this: the grain in current Double-X is very much not objectionable.





Cinestill packaged Double-X Negative, EI 400, Df96 monobath
Kiev 4, Jupiter 8 50mm f/2

Even though Df96 is seemingly named after D-96, the MSDS indicates it's a PQ developer, rather than MQ like D-96. It's actually common to use 1/10 as much phenidone as a near-perfect replacement for metol in developers, however; this may have been done here to gain a little speed to offset the speed loss usually seen in monobaths due to fixing running simultaneously with development.
 

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Something else to consider regarding grain and motion pictures as opposed to stills is that the grain in motion pictures moves from frame to frame and, as a result, would be neither as sharp nor as distracting as similar grain would be in stills.
 

Pentode

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The current version of Tri-X is most definitely finer grained than that which was available in the 90s. It is currently a hybrid of T-grains and traditional grains. The modern Tri-X (it’s been reformulated several times over the decades) is really nice film and it’s tonality is similar to the older version but I have to admit that there are times I miss the coarser grain of the Tri-X I learned on and Double-X in D-76 does provide that grain to some degree.

I think I remember reading sometime in the last year or so that there have been very, very minor changes to Double-X as well but that they have pertained to the anti-halation layer and base material only and that the emulsion itself is basically unchanged since the beginning.
 

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Since nobody has linked to this fairly well known thread yet I figured I’d do it.

This drags on for more than 50 pages and definitely goes beyond the parameters of “some quick thoughts” on 5222 but anyone who’s interested in using this film would be well served to wade through it.

https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52426

Like any long thread that goes on for years you’ll have to sift through a fair amount of impertinent material but the reward is that the pertinent stuff is really very informative.
 

Donald Qualls

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That's a very good link, @Pentode . Just the first page has three good developers for Double-X (one with replenisher), Kodak stock numbers for 400 and 1000 foot cine rolls. I might have to spring for a four hundred -- I just need enough bulk roll cans and a good way to measure it (close enough) in the dark to respool it to bulk loader lengths.

You know, for the 3D printer crowd, it might be worth building a 35mm bulk loader that will take a 400' camera roll. Just saying...
 
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