Simplest developing solution

[George Mann]

As some of you may know, I won a bid on a vintage Agfa Rondinax 35. Some of you may also know that I camp and operate out of a small campervan.

So here's the thing. I need a simple and compact development rig. Full traditional processes will take up too much room.

So with that in mind, I have been entertaining monobaths, as well as 2 step developers. I am thinking of using powders in one shot form.

I am not as well versed in developers as many of you are. so if you could help me with a list of options, I would appreciate it.

 

[Horatio]

Cinestill DF96 is probably your best bet for convenience. I’m going to try it one of these days.

 

[George Mann]

Cinestill DF96 is probably your best bet for convenience. I’m going to try it one of these days.

That may be so. I need a formula that I can make in small one off batches, so we will see how it goes.

 

[MattKing]

Do you have room for two one litre bottles of re-usable working solution - one for developer and one for fixer?
Plus another two one litre bottles - one for concentrated liquid developer, the other for concentrated rapid fixer?
And a small bottle of rinse aid?
That combination will give you lots of capacity, and excellent economy.

 

[George Mann]

Do you have room for two one litre bottles of re-usable working solution - one for developer and one for fixer?
Plus another two one litre bottles - one for concentrated liquid developer, the other for concentrated rapid fixer?
And a small bottle of rinse aid?
That combination will give you lots of capacity, and excellent economy.

Three developer bottles at most, including the rinse aid + photoflow and a gallon jug of water.

 

[Alan9940]

I tried Cinestill's DF96, but could never get results I was happy with. YMMV, of course. Have you thought about going with a real simple developer like D-23? Two chemicals to mix when needed and toss.

 

[George Mann]

I tried Cinestill's DF96, but could never get results I was happy with. YMMV, of course. Have you thought about going with a real simple developer like D-23? Two chemicals to mix when needed and toss.

I am not familiar with D23, but I will look it up. I am also considering a non-toxic caffenol derivative.

 

[pentaxuser]

George, have a look at this video: It is part of the set of Pictorial Planet videos by a man called John Finch I find his instructions particularly clear

I hope this helps

pentaxuser

 

[gone]

With water about 8 lbs in your gallon container, plus your fix/stop/rinse aid, you're at 20 lbs right there. Hopefully someone has a lighter solution, if one is possible. It's an interesting problem.

 

[George Mann]

D23 is doable, and I located pre-mixed packets of it, but I see that it difficult to mix the two components at once.

Now I have to figure out how much to add to make 7 fluid ounces (200cc).

 

[BrianShaw]

Why not consider a liquid developer that easily mixes into a one-shot... like DD-X? Fixer mixed as one-shot too. Very little to store and very easy to use.

 

[removed account4]

George
have you gotten instructions on using the daylight tank?
from I vaguely remember you jiggle the knob to agitate the film
and it can sometimes be problematic.
as for your developer, have you looked into caffenol ? or calling
the formulary to get ansco130 and an amber jug .. stock solution will last at least a year.
its 1:6 for 6 mins for film, any film, any iso, and it works great. I'd suggest getting Dektol and doing the same thing
but, there have been issues packets of Dektol and I figure if you are buying chemistry to make D72 ( basically Dektol from scratch )
you might as well spend a few extra dollars for the glycin and make ansco 130 it will last forever by comparison.

 

[George Mann]

Why not consider a liquid developer that easily mixes into a one-shot... like DD-X? Fixer mixed as one-shot too. Very little to store and very easy to use.

Because the liquids take up too much room.

 

[George Mann]

George
have you gotten instructions on using the daylight tank?
from I vaguely remember you jiggle the knob to agitate the film
and it can sometimes be problematic.
as for your developer, have you looked into caffenol ? or calling
the formulary to get ansco130 and an amber jug .. stock solution will last at least a year.
its 1:6 for 6 mins for film, any film, any iso, and it works great. I'd suggest getting Dektol and doing the same thing
but, there have been issues packets of Dektol and I figure if you are buying chemistry to make D72 ( basically Dektol from scratch )
you might as well spend a few extra dollars for the glycin and make ansco 130 it will last forever by comparison.

Yes, yes and ansco is interesting.

 

[Don_ih]

George
have you gotten instructions on using the daylight tank?
from I vaguely remember you jiggle the knob to agitate the film
and it can sometimes be problematic.

The Rondinax needs to have its knob turned the entire time you're developing and fixing. 200ml does not fill the thing - nor do you want to, or liquid would get in where the film canister sits.

I think you should use liquid dev and fix concentrates. Using rapid fix at 1:4 to make 200ml is 40ml a time - so you get 25 rolls developed out of a 1 litre bottle. That's nowhere near what a 1 litre bottle can fix but it's still quite cheap.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

As some of you may know, I won a bid on a vintage Agfa Rondinax 35. Some of you may also know that I camp and operate out of a small campervan.

So here's the thing. I need a simple and compact development rig. Full traditional processes will take up too much room.

So with that in mind, I have been entertaining monobaths, as well as 2 step developers. I am thinking of using powders in one shot form.

I am not as well versed in developers as many of you are. so if you could help me with a list of options, I would appreciate it.

the ars Imago monobath may bethe right thinhg for you.They sell it with and for the Lab-box but, there is no reason it wouldn't work just fine with your Rodinax tank.

 

[George Mann]

the ars Imago monobath may bethe right thinhg for you.They sell it with and for the Lab-box but, there is no reason it wouldn't work just fine with your Rodinax tank.

Unfortunately, it is not recommended fort t-grain films.

 

[BrianShaw]

Because the liquids take up too much room.

You really need a different rationale. No they don’t. “Because I don’t want to consider that option” would be a reasonable response.

 

[George Mann]

You really need a different logic. No they don’t.
View attachment 288429

You haven't seen my space constraits!

 

[BrianShaw]

Maybe you should settle for a notepad and crayons. LOL. Good luck to you in whatever solution you can find.

 

[Paul Howell]

When a working JP I covered Africa, at times I had to develop film in a hotel room. I carried quart kits of Diafine, no issues with time 3+ minutes, A, 3+minutes B, no stop bath, pan thermic, good from 60 to 90 degrees F, rinse then rapid fix, if you use a traditional film 2 minutes, 20 minutes wash or if you have room for clearing agent wash 5 minutes or less depending on the brand. Hard part finding Diafine quart size, still listed but of stock at B&H, maybe new old old stock on ebay. Diafine lasts a very long time, good for up to a year, I've been told by others even longer. So if you have room for 3 quart bottles. Down side, low contrast which is fixed fixed, cannot push or pull to adjust contrast.

 

[pentaxuser]

D23 is doable, and I located pre-mixed packets of it, but I see that it difficult to mix the two components at once.

Now I have to figure out how much to add to make 7 fluid ounces (200cc).

George have you looked at the video? it is two powders which he demonstrates to be easily mixed, using kitchen "spoons" for measuring and it's only 1L of liquid

pentaxuser

 

[MattKing]

Fixer is also available in powder form.

I agree with most of what Old Gregg says, but it is really difficult to use powder fixer with T-Max films.

 

[George Mann]

I agree with most of what Old Gregg says, but it is really difficult to use powder fixer with T-Max films.

Would that include Delta 100?

 

[MattKing]

Would that include Delta 100?

Probably - I have more experience with T-Max 100.