Should I Buy This Enlarger? Simmons Omega D2

[Thepng]

Hello,

I was at a surplus store and saw this enlarger for sale, I'm guessing it's a Simmon Omega D2. Definitely not photo people, so know idea if it's in working condition. They're only asking $45, but I'm not really sure what to check out to see if it's in good shape. Looks like it will need a lens board, lens, film-holder, possibly a new bulb, so I'm wondering if it's still a good deal...

I shoot 4x5 and have only been able to contact print so far, so I'm pretty tempted... What do you all think?

Thanks!

 

[Kino]

I would say that's a decent price for the enlarger, but have a look at the manual (http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/omega/D2 Condenser and Dichro.pdf) and go back and see if any of the condenser lenses are missing or cracked. Check the travel of the column and the general overall condition, but they are generally built like a tank and there are tons of parts for these enlargers on Ebay and other places on the internet.

 

[Old_Dick]

Besides what Kino said.
Your going to need negative holders, lens, variable contrast filters and easels. Probably more.

 

[Bill Burk]

But the parts you need are cheap and easy to come by

 

[Thepng]

Thanks for the responses everyone!

 

[John Koehrer]

Personally I wouldn't consider this for a first enlarger if it's not complete, It can be pretty frustrating putting the parts together
for a WORKING setup for someone unfamiliar with Omega's fussy parts compatibility.

However......................
The D2V should have three condenser lenses. Two in the aluminum collar about 6" diameter and one in a metal tray that goes into the
flip up drawer marked "variable condenser". The older(like this one ) also use lens cones for different focal length lenses,
The cone can vary between a flat board for 50mm/35mm film and 6" for longer lenses. You ALSO need a lens plate
that fits your particular lens(es) and of course negative carriers.

Take a look at http://www.khbphotografix.com for a comprehensive parts list.
Make up a list of what you need and check out pricing there. It's retail but can give you some sort of reference.
Don't forget to factor in shipping it eats a large portion of $$$

Also the bay for complete enlarger sets also for comparison.

 

[ic-racer]

As Bill posted, most any missing item from that enlarger can be found in the USA. It takes SAE hardware and some components of the system are interchangeable with the D5, which was available new into the early part of this century.

In terms of 'does it work?' here are some things to check.

Lamp: It runs off wall voltage, so check the cord and socket. Lamp is incandescent, but does need to be smooth white, because the condensers project a picture of the lamp, so writing on the lamp can show in your prints.
Condensers: irregularities in the condensers can show in your prints, so they do need to be perfect. They are not coated, so could theoretically be polished.
Column: Make sure it moves up and down smoothly. Check the two big coiled up springs on the top that they are not broken.
Baseboard: Check that it is not warped.
Bellows: Look for obvious cracks.

I started darkroom printing when that enlarger was the top of the line model. I only dreamed of owning one at the time.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I started darkroom printing when that enlarger was the top of the line model. I only dreamed of owning one at the time.

That's me, too. Even the schools where I took photography courses didn't have Omega -- in high school we had a single 6x9 size Durst, the college darkroom had four medium format Beselers.

A few weeks ago, I paid more than the tag on that enlarger for just the variable condenser lamp house, complete, to replace the cold light unit that was on my D2 when I got it. The D size Omegas are excellent, because you can print any film from 35mm up to 4x5 (as long as you have the right lens and negative holder) -- including 126, 828, and 127. Make a negative carrier out of mat board, and you can even print obsolete roll film sizes, postcard format and other lesser-known sizes of cut film -- and with an accessory called an "Enlahead (or a 28mm lens in recessed board and suitable negative carrier) you can even print 110 and other 16mm formats, or Minox.

Given that one is local to you, and the price, I'm inclined to say, grab it even if you can't verify it works. The lamp house is very simple, electrically. Condensors are actually fairly robust, if someone didn't take them out and throw them away, they're likely fine the movable one is the only one prone to getting lost or damaged, and it's the less expensive one to replace, albeit not super common). The counterbalance springs are the hardest item to fix, but they're pretty sturdy.

 

[David Reynolds]

This is the workhorse of all enlargers. I used a D2V for 50 years and never had to replace any parts. As people have previously noted : Look to see if the condensers are still with the enlarger. One set in the circular medal colored sleeve and the second inside the flip up door marked variable condenser. The head if not working requires a standard light bulb socket easy to replace. Crank the the handle on the right side to see if the head goes up and down smoothly. Use the lift up handle on the left side to see if it lifts the head properly. If all that works you have a working unit. Lenses (135mm for 4X5) and negative carriers are easily found for sale on this website. Ebay as a last resort. For $45.00 you can't lose.

 

[Paul Howell]

I agree, at $45 is a good buy.

First as noted above find out if the variable condenser is in the housing. If not look on Ebay to see what one would cost. Or, look for a cold light replacement, or a color head. Then the price for a 35mm negative carrier. If the stars line up then get it.

 

[knj]

What’s that?

 

[Kino]

That is a broken cover for the lamphouse power cord connectors. It's made of Bakelite and a lot of these enlargers I run across in thrift stores have just this problem, but a replacement cover can be fabricated without too much fuss...

 

[David Reynolds]

The wire connected between the two screws is not normal. Not sure why it is there. Could it be a grounding device?

 

[knj]

The light baffle I get. Power cord goes through the top. What is the little green wire with the two red insulated lugs screwed in with it? The baffle looks intact.

 

[Kino]

There simply isn't enough visual information to determine if it has been modified...

 

[jvo]

i've had one for 50 years, still the one and only enlarger i've ever had... ( it can also be used to break concrete - just joking., but it is solid and keeps on "ticking"!

 

[Paul Howell]

OP found it at a surplus store, State, Federal, U of A? When released in the early 50s the D2 had a two prong plug, might be a ground that was added. To find out the cover needs to come off.

 

[ic-racer]

Those side covers are light traps. Maybe the loop of green wire was for hanging something.

 

[Paul Howell]

My thinking is the loop is a ground, a ground wire was connected to it by one of the screws and then attached to a outlet's mental screw that holds the plastic cover on. My D3 has the original 2 prong plug, last few years I've been thinking about taking to a lamp shop to replace the 50s vintage lamp with a new grounded unit. After 60+ years the cord is still in very good shape and I've never experienced a shock. My Sander's 6700 has a 3 lead grounded plug.

 

[ic-racer]

Wonder if he got it yet.

 

[Thepng]

Hello,

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to go back to the store and they're closed over the weekend, but I'm planning on looking at it again this week. Combing through the replies, I'm planning on doing the following:
-Condenser lenses / missing or cracked
-Lamp, cord and socket
-Column: Make sure it moves up and down smoothly. Check the two big coiled up springs on the top that they are not broken.
-Baseboard: Check that it is not warped.
-Bellows: Look for obvious cracks.

I think I might nave seen the lensboard and some enlarger lenses in a different part of the store, so if I'm lucky I can get those at the same time. I'm a 3D printer and I might be able to make some replacement parts if needed to, along with stuff from the hardware store.

Assuming the fixed condensers are in good shape , I should be okay even if the variable condenser lens isn't there; it's not needed for 4x5/150mm lens. I have a smaller enlarger I've been using for 35mm and 6x6.

Thanks!

 

[jvo]

the "fixed" condensers aren't really fixed... they sit in that silver canister above the negative stage stacked on top of each other. 35mm is one self-contained unit, the larger sizes are 2 large pieces of glass separated by a corrugated metal spacer. the glass should be unscratched and cleanable - if needed because of disuse.

i've never used baseboard. i got my enlarger attached to a drafting table. i removed the enalrger and always attached it to a table/board i've secured to a wall. I use a standard hardware store level to check alignment but i've never had to do more that check it - all okay.

i enjoy it's simplicity... you're embarking on a wonderful journey. have fun.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Good luck, and keep us posted. It's always better to see an old enlarger go to someone who'll actually use it, than to a metals recycler or landfill.

 

[Paul Howell]

Don't think you can 3D print a glass condenser, but seems that a plastic condenser might be printed, if you get the geometry right might work as long as the plastic is clear. If so I would use a LED bulb. 3D printing a 35mm negative carrier and lens board should well with possibility. Lots of possibilities.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Negative carriers and lens boards (and cones), as well as knobs are good candidates for 3D printing. Even if you have optically clear filament I wouldn't expect to be able to 3D print a condenser. Might be possible with a resin printer, but making the convex surface smooth is likely to be a task and a half. Not to mention, if the refractive index is lower than glass (it most likely is) you'd need a deeper curve and thicker lens for the same diameter, which would require altering the fixed condenser housing.