I'd like to see the results of some developed "normally" - i.e. not in a monobath.
Probably not, although it might have something to do with a softened emulsion.I can understand that - the mono may have something to do with the weird emulsion patches - but it is not going to put on those scratches!
I hadn't thought of that Matt. They are good points about monobath. The emulsion's ability to capture what's in front of it is good. It is difficult to believe that having put the effort into making it Shanghai can possibly believe that these faults are acceptable so is it a "rogue" example, the monobath or just the inability to control quality and produce consistent, acceptable film?Probably not, although it might have something to do with a softened emulsion.
Just in case I'd like to see a comparison, using standard developer and a hardening fixer.
Probably not, although it might have something to do with a softened emulsion.
Just in case I'd like to see a comparison, using standard developer and a hardening fixer.
What a shame....the unaffected portions of the GP3 frames look gorgeous.
I guess it just depends on how badly you want to shoot 220. It seems like the easiest thing to do is shoot 120 and reload. If you like the look of Shanghai 220, the Shanghai 120 is likely the same film. I haven't tried it so I don't know if it has the same problems as the 220. Maybe the problems with the 220 are introduced by the method they are using to spool it, whatever that is.I can't see how the development process would make a difference here. There is a huge repeated imprinted pattern going down the harbour shot. The long straight scratches remind me of my own pitiful attempts to roll and load 16mm cartridges... and obviously we seem to be missing a lot of emulsion too...
I suppose to be ultra cautious one could just dry next roll on the reel and worry about any drying marks another day or presoak film in a hardener before development but in this instance I can't see what that would do
I guess it just depends on how badly you want to shoot 220..
I guess I would rather shoot 8 good negatives than 16 defective ones. I think even Lomo would be embarrassed selling that Shanghai film. You are going to have to be a pretty smooth talker to convince anyone that that Shanghai film is wabi-sabi. Not saying it can't be done though.Using a Fuji GW690III, shooting 220 is really handy. 16 exposures per roll vs 8. But if the quality is really like this, then for me it's only useful if I am going for that lomo/damaged film cred look.
There are quite a lot of people out there (not on Photrio!) who shoot film cuz it is not clean to them like digital. Don't want to say who it is, let's just say the kids...
And seriously, if that is the look that 'you' are going for, then, well there you have it. Check out freestyle.com and see all the 'special effects' film they sell.
The difference here is that these 'special effects' are unintended!
you must have some issues with your cameras or development as I shot a few rolls of this film in 220 and had no issues like you had. a few zits, yeh, but nothing as bad as your film came out. there is a chance that its not only the film but could be something on your end. others who have shot this film in 220, please chime in. I used the same camera as you did, so I doubt that its the camera unless you have pressure plate issues
I would shoot another roll and use a normal development plan, forget the monbath
john
I guess I would rather shoot 8 good negatives than 16 defective ones. I think even Lomo would be embarrassed selling that Shanghai film. You are going to have to be a pretty smooth talker to convince anyone that that Shanghai film is wabi-sabi. Not saying it can't be done though.
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