That means if I hold the paper long enough in a weak/old developer it should come out correctly?
your special RA4 kit
Ever tried safelight for cutting/placing the paper?
can I consider RA4 process as development to completion? Maybe if I hold long enough at room temperature it will work out. What will happen if you develop longer than 45 seconds at 35C, lets say if you hold it for 5 min at 35C in the developer? Or the statement of reaction to completion applies more for the bleach/fixer?I use standard Fuji minilab chemistry; it's not specialRegular dilution etc. Everything by the book, except in the time I did the video I developed longer than the 45 second default RA4 time and at room temperature. These days I usually use a roller transport processor at 35C, but sometimes I still use room temperature development, with the exact same chemistry. Both approaches work fine.
RA4 process as development to completion?
What will happen if you develop longer than 45 seconds at 35C, lets say if you hold it for 5 min at 35C in the developer?
how do the prints look in color/quality/blacks ? What kind of machines use this paper today and the larger rolls? Do they still make these printers or this paper is being consumed by printers that are slowly becoming extinct?
I think that Chromira, Noritsu and Colenta still make and sell RA4 printers.
I think Colenta only makes RA4 processors, but they are indeed back in that business.
ZBE apparently still makes their Chromira machines, and then there are Imaging Solutions, Fuji with their Frontier series and Polielettronica. I think that's currently the market. Polielettronica is the least well-known of the bunch, but might be the most interesting from a technological viewpoint. AFAIK they're the only ones with an active interest in taking RA4 printing beyond 300dpi, but don't quote me on that.
Type DPII is something different from Fuji Type II paper?The quality is very nice but I don't see the advertised advantages compared to DPII of higher Dmax and extended gamut.
Fuji Type II paper?
It's unclear how this moniker relates to the current Fuji paper lineup I'm aware of, i.e. the papers that are in both (very comprehensive) sample packs I have on my desk, and the papers listed on the originalphotopaper.com website.
can I simply pour out a bit of my old solution and simply pour the same amount of the fresh solution?
If this is the case, can you also use the same technique for C-41 chemistry?
Does the potassium hydroxide ever become saturated in your solution?
Do you still have the same bottle mix from that 2020 video?
Thank you as usual for the detailed explanation. These conversations help tp keep the materials alive and available. I will probably make YouTube videos of the process myself in the future, and the C-print digital printing services that are available.Yes, that's the idea.
Aside from endura and fuji crystal archive what other good fuji products are out there
Also about RA4 going out of fashion, I read that making very large prints is cheaper and faster with RA4 than with inkjet, and that demand increased.
So the new Chinese endura is no good?
When was the last time you tried Crystal archive? Maybe it improved since then.
Speaking of crystal archive, my Type II glossy just came in now, and some 16x20 processing trays. Gonna try it out maybe in the evening when my "darkroom" gets dark enough. When you had poor results with Type II, maybe it wasn't the glossy type? Heard that glossy produces the deepest blacks.All Fuji papers are called 'Crystal Archive', but there are several products in that broader line that are distinguished by different suffixes.
When you had poor results with Type II, maybe it wasn't the glossy type? Heard that glossy produces the deepest blacks.
Good to know that we may have a decade to play with this.
If Kodak goes out of business
The Fuji person you spoke to could be biased naturally against Kodak/China.
Thanks for the link, I will read up on other papers; there's Super C, Super Type PD, DPII, "Preferred", etc. before investing in Fujiflex.
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