But for the developer replenisher I don't see any CD3 color developer:
The whole RA kit consists of 4 parts: developer parts A+B, and Blix parts A+B.
Thanks for the clarificationsDepends on what kit you're referring to. perhaps there are kits out there with 2-part developers - I don't know.
Did you try making this already? Looks like EDTA is available at Alphachem near me, where I bought lots of other stuff.
Ammonia in what form? I think Ammonia is a gas, or gas in an aqueous solution, or compounds of ammonia.
You can also turn the dark concentrate of a blix into a standalone bleach just adding ammonium bromide (NH4Br) to it. Minilab RA4 blix is very affordable, probably the cheapest photochemical in the market.
Speaking about paper, you mentioned in your video that Fuji Crystal Archive Type II is a bit dull. What do you think of Kodak papers? I think they are cheaper and can be bought in a smaller number of rolls:You can work out how many 8x10's a kg of CD3 will develop based on the CD3 content of a typical RA4 developer and an estimate of how many prints a liter will develop.
actually found something in the Quebec province, maybe they will ship.
Update: they ship to Toronto, ordered some.
how long can you keep it at room temp?
I could be wrong, but I think that listing might be for expired paper.
why do you think so? It usually mentions if something is expired on B&H
The description migt be incorrect - that reference to "generations".
Sino-Promise's website is not up to date, but this page is copyright 2022:
https://truephotopaper.com/products#edge
Since the back of the color paper has manufacturer watermarks, this is probably not feasible.I've seen some people on YouTube making paper negatives for B&W contact prints, could this work for color paper negatives/contacts?
Not all color papers have a backing print.
Tha couple of prints I have on Fuji CA Maxima does not have any backprint. Although it is not the everyday paper as minimum width starts in 16'' (40.6cm).
@koraks you mentioned in your video that RA4 development is essentially a development to completion process. That means if I hold the paper long enough in a weak/old developer it should come out correctly? In the video it looks like you're developing at room temperature while everybody else is doing it at about 100F while being crazy about temperature control within +/- 1F. Does it simply take longer to develop at room temperature or your special RA4 kit is meant for room temperature development specifically, or do you do something different like using higher concentration?You'll have to scrounge the offering of your suppliers a bit. But:
* Endura in F and N surfaces comes with or without backing print, apparently depending on region.
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