Rolleiflex Hy6...One of the last medium format cameras in production

[Pieter12]

Yes, I use mine with the WLF all the time even though I normally preferred a 45 degree prism. Mostly because the AF is reliable and because the weight is a LOT less. A friend who has one and shoots a lot of 645 uses the 90 degree prism.



I am using the 80/2.8 Xenotar AFD, 50/2.8 Super-Angulon AFD, and manual PQ 180/2.8 (plus the 1.4x extender). I use it always with film in 6x6, but I have shot digital with it. I would consider a Credo 60 back for it if I got it for really cheap, but I don't think it would be better than Ektachrome personally.

I can only imagine the weight of the camera with the 180, prism and digital back. Tripod only!

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

I can only imagine the weight of the camera with the 180, prism and digital back. Tripod only!

If you want the images to be sharp, yeah haha. Though I've shot some pretty snappy chromes hand held at 1/500th in bright light. Though mostly if I'm using the 180, I'm doing some landscape stuff so it's pretty locked down.

 

[GG12]

There's a cute trick one can use: the mirror lock up button is right on the handle, easy to use. With the digital back, you compose the shot, lock up the mirror, bang three quick shots off (leaf shutter only); one will be pretty sharp. I've used this handholding 80mm at 1/40 sec, and with a monopod, even to 1/20. You have to practice your breathing a bit tho too!

 

[ic-racer]

Spent the evening exploring the TTL flash modes. Somewhat difficult to figure out due to each PDF manual (Hy6 and 54 MZ) pointing to the other to outline the functionality.
My goal is for me to be able to adjust the fill in flash intensity for daylight shooting.
For the last 20 years I have been using non-TTL auto or manual and just adjust the flash settings to give 'just enough' extra light for what I'm doing.
I always considered the TTL fill- flash stuff for wedding photographers, so have ignored it all these years.

After more exploration, I think it is a given that I need the SCA 356 also, for my 35mm cameras. Even though the TTL exposure functionality seems to be working correctly with the 3562 on the 6008i (version 1), I don't get any "flash ready" or "ok exposure" feedback in the viewfinder, so again need for the 356.

 

[ic-racer]

Yes, I use mine with the WLF all the time even though I normally preferred a 45 degree prism. Mostly because the AF is reliable and because the weight is a LOT less. A friend who has one and shoots a lot of 645 uses the 90 degree prism..

So, I was comparing focusing with the Hy6 and WL finder to the 6008i with 90 prism, and I found the Hy6 easier to focus by eye with all my lenses, even the AF lens.
So, I dug out the WL finder for the 6008i and it does seem the 90 degree prism (with its somewhat reduced image size) does make it more difficult to focus the 6008i.

 

[Pieter12]

There's a cute trick one can use: the mirror lock up button is right on the handle, easy to use. With the digital back, you compose the shot, lock up the mirror, bang three quick shots off (leaf shutter only); one will be pretty sharp. I've used this handholding 80mm at 1/40 sec, and with a monopod, even to 1/20. You have to practice your breathing a bit tho too!

I was referring to the fact a 180mm/Body/Prism/Digital Back must weigh a ton. The 180 weighs 3X the 80mmAF, the prism must weigh at least as much as the body and depending on the digital back (some have their own battery), the whole kit couldn't be hand-held no matter the shutter speed. On a separate note, I really appreciate the AF 80mm and even the focus confirmation using manual lenses, especially given medium format lenses have shallower focus.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

I was referring to the fact a 180mm/Body/Prism/Digital Back must weigh a ton. The 180 weighs 3X the 80mmAF, the prism must weigh at least as much as the body and depending on the digital back (some have their own battery), the whole kit couldn't be hand-held no matter the shutter speed. On a separate note, I really appreciate the AF 80mm and even the focus confirmation using manual lenses, especially given medium format lenses have shallower focus.

I know it should be the same as the AF but I've found the confirmation mode a little iffy. It was not always accurate with the 80/2 I had for a while. However, I found the 80/2.8 AFD to be SO much of a better lens that the 2.0 had to go. Plus unlike the Contax 80/2, focusing the Rollei 80/2 takes approximately 5 years per shot. I have no idea what made these lens makers opt for extremely long helicals.

 

[GG12]

Did you adjust the focus offset for the different lenses? Each one needs to be dialed in.

 

[Pieter12]

I know it should be the same as the AF but I've found the confirmation mode a little iffy. It was not always accurate with the 80/2 I had for a while. However, I found the 80/2.8 AFD to be SO much of a better lens that the 2.0 had to go. Plus unlike the Contax 80/2, focusing the Rollei 80/2 takes approximately 5 years per shot. I have no idea what made these lens makers opt for extremely long helicals.

I'm loving the 80AFD. For a while (before I got the Hy6 and was using the 6008i) I considered finding an 80 2.0, thinking it would be easier to focus because it is brighter. Boy, are they expensive!

 

[Arthurwg]

There's a 110mm for sale on eBay now, 'only' € 5000 or US$ 6000.
https://www.ebay.nl/itm/Rollei-Zeis...300855?hash=item3d664c9877:g:ljwAAOSwVK9bCBCU

What's money where photography is concerned?

 

[Pieter12]

What's money where photography is concerned?

Film, paper, travel, model fees...

 

[Lachlan Young]

I have no idea what made these lens makers opt for extremely long helicals.

Probably assumptions about the precision of focus the end user wants. The big 6x7/8/9 Fuji RF's are the same - very precise focus and a slow helical (trying to use them with the speed of a Leica is an exercise in extreme frustration).

 

[ic-racer]

Did you adjust the focus offset for the different lenses? Each one needs to be dialed in.

I think this was directed toward me, and my commenbts about ease of focus were with my eye and the focus screen image. In terms of the autofocus, I did calibrate my single AF lens, it is -15.

 

[ic-racer]

My sole AF lens is the Super Angulon 50mm f2.8 AFD with no aperture ring.

It seems there are quite a few 80mm lenses since the SLX. So I thought I'd try to compile a list. Any others???

Planar 80mm 2.8 (SLX style)
Planar 80mm 2.8 (6006 style)
Rolleigon 80mm 2.8 (Japan)
AF-Xenotar (Apogon) 80mm 2.8 PQS
AFD-Xenotar (Apogon) 80mm 2.8 PQS (no aperture ring)
Xenotar 80mm 2.8 PQ (manual focus)
Planar 80mm 2.8 EL (ecomomy model , no front bayonet?)
Planar 80mm 2.8 PQS
Planar 80mm 2.8 PQ
Xenotar 80mm 2.0 Xenotar PQ

 

[Lachlan Young]

I think this was directed toward me, and my commenbts about ease of focus were with my eye and the focus screen image. In terms of the autofocus, I did calibrate my single AF lens, it is -15.

Are you testing the calibration via analysis of negs or with a digital back/ other means of checking the offset at the film plane - and does it make a significant difference in perceived sharpness on film? I think this must make the Hy6 essentially the only film camera with this potentially really useful feature.

 

[Pieter12]

Are you testing the calibration via analysis of negs or with a digital back/ other means of checking the offset at the film plane - and does it make a significant difference in perceived sharpness on film? I think this must make the Hy6 essentially the only film camera with this potentially really useful feature.

From what I can tell calibration only works with AF, you can't calibrate a manual lens. I haven't attempted it yet, but it seems like you would make adjustment according to the viewfinder image vs the AF, maybe using a focus target. I know there is a readout for the AF focus distance in one of the screens displayed on the grip.

 

[ic-racer]

Based on my initial tests and checking for film bulge my negatives show the focus screen and film match perfectly ( I hope so for a new camera ).

When using the autofocus feature with my used 50mm Super Angulon AF the first time the focus was WAY OFF. I checked the offset and it was something like -60.

After setting it to "0" it was very very close to perfect but the microprism was just a little blurry. I used some trial and error setting the focus offset and found that at -15 it was as close to perfect as I could get.

I'd recommend anyone buying a used lens, make sure you at least set it back to "0" the first time the camera body detects the lens.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

It should be pointed out that the 6008 series is also a great option for those not needing the same AF performance. I think you have access to basically the same glass, same metering, but probably more parts and options at way lower prices. The AF on the Hy6 Mod 1 was a little bit painful IMHO, and I understand the 6008AF is the same. But if you want to use the best glass in the game (IMO), the Schneider line up will work fine on the older bodies. I haven't used it but I hear the 60mm Curtagon is an absolute stunner.

 

[GG12]

You can set the offset for manual lenses as well - it adjusts the focus confirmation set point and is very helpful. The only difficulty I had was with the 300 APO, where its near focus setting wasn't the same as the far focus. But in general, it is used for all my manual lenses and the 80 AF. I use a digital back, and check the offset typically by tethering or chimping.
No AF problems with my Hy6 mod 1 - but its firmware was updated by the factory, so maybe that helped.
And yes, the 60 Curtagon is stellar, have used it since the 1990s. So too is the 90 (since sold), and the 150 4.5 is something special. They all have their charms.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

You can set the offset for manual lenses as well - it adjusts the focus confirmation set point and is very helpful. The only difficulty I had was with the 300 APO, where its near focus setting wasn't the same as the far focus. But in general, it is used for all my manual lenses and the 80 AF. I use a digital back, and check the offset typically by tethering or chimping.
No AF problems with my Hy6 mod 1 - but its firmware was updated by the factory, so maybe that helped.
And yes, the 60 Curtagon is stellar, have used it since the 1990s. So too is the 90 (since sold), and the 150 4.5 is something special. They all have their charms.

Yes that final factory upgrade to the Mod 1 included IIRC the basic AF system of the Mod 2. So if anyone is looking for a Mod 1, make sure it has the last version of the firmware.

 

[ic-racer]

Since 'dry fire' is not so easy with the Hy6, and the SCA 3562 does not work on the SL3003, most of my TTL-Fill experimentation has been with the 6008i. The following is not all that clear in the manual but this is what I think. Posting it here if anyone has other ideas. I may check this out with some Instax film.

Any AUTO mode on 6008i with TTL mode on 54MZ: Flash only fires when the "exposure comp" dial is in the "lightning bolt" area. In that case the MORE NEGATIVE the dial, the BRIGHTER THE FILL and dimmer the ambient.

MANUAL mode on 6008i with TTL mode on 54MZ: Flash fires all the time and gives probably the full exposure plus any ambient light allowed by your manual settings: Rotating the dial MORE NEGATIVE the DIMMER THE FILL with no change in your manual set ambient exposure. It took a while to figure out the obvious: "Exposure comp," of course, won't change your set shutter speed or set f-stop in manual mode. So it only affects flash output.

Took me 3 days to figure that out.

Main reason I'm posting it here, 3 weeks from now after shooting 8x10, I'll come back to this and forget how it all works

Now to figure out how the SCA3562 works on the Hy6...

 

[Arthurwg]

Film, paper, travel, model fees...

Yes, what I meant was, anything for photography!

 

[ic-racer]

Ok, figured out how to dry-fire the Hy6. Just set the film back to "STOP" and shoot away.

This is what I came up with seems to be easier to manage:

Hy6 in any AUTO mode and Metz 54MZ in TTL mode, press the "lightning bolt" button brings up an EV scale to control the fill flash brightness only Plus or Minus. Press the "meter mode" button brings up a separate EV scale for overall exposure compensation.

 

[ic-racer]

What I'm looking to do with my aesthetic, is landscape with a small amount of fill. I guess one would need to know that kind of stuff I photograph, so if you know landscape work of Robert Adams, Lee Friedlander and John Gossage, that would let you know. If you don't know their work, I'd say my work is stuff my wife says "what is it" or " why did you take a picture of that..."

This is in 35mm with Rollei 3003 and manual flash, but I'd like to do more work like that with the Hy6 and the TTL flash.

 

[Dave Krueger]

After living quite frugal for six decades I purchased the camera brand new from the USA dealer. It was expensive, but a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. Though I only got a body and back. No lens.
I had been following the Rollei USA website and when they got a new batch of 2020 builds I was glad to see Rolleiflex has not gone out of business again, and bought it right away.

Hi, ic-racer,

This thread has piqued my interest in this camera and now I'm seriously considering getting one. I'm in the same boat in terms of living frugally for decades.

Somewhere I got the impression that dhw was selling inventory that's from 2012 or 2014 and that, if they go under, there will be no warranty service and possibly no spare parts. You seem to be confident that the inventory is new and that the company is going to be around for a while. They seem to be out of stock on several lenses/accessories and don't have listings for others (645 back, prisms, etc) which makes me concerned about future availability of those items. Have you found out anything since your purchase that you wish you knew before buying?

I'm just trying to assess the level of risk there is in buying one of these. This seems like the only option there is for buying a new MF film camera and it looks like a great camera, but I'm worried about surprises...