Rolleiflex Hy6...One of the last medium format cameras in production

[Pieter12]

All this is well and good. But I'd like to see some photos from such an exceptional camera.

Pretty much all my "Square" series was shot with either the 6008i or Hy6. pdekoninck.com

 

[Dave Krueger]

I'm seeing some weird spots on inner elements of the 80mm lens. They have a central spec surrounded by a halo or tiny circle of fog.

Anyone know what this might be?

 

[Pieter12]

A wild stab, but earlier Hy6 models apparently had an issue with the AF being damaged by overtightening the tripod mounting screw. Could that be something to check?

 

[Dave Krueger]

A wild stab, but earlier Hy6 models apparently had an issue with the AF being damaged by overtightening the tripod mounting screw. Could that be something to check?

I think I saw something about that somewhere but can't remember where. Do you know what the symptoms were that the autofocus was broken in that case? As I understand it, this camera is not an early updated Mod1 Hy6 and was originally built as a Mod2. Also, my initial experiments were conducted with the camera sitting on the edge of a table rather than on a tripod, but I have since started using a tripod.

 

[Pieter12]

I think I saw something about that somewhere but can't remember where. Do you know what the symptoms were that the autofocus was broken in that case? As I understand it, this camera is not an early updated Mod1 Hy6 and was originally built as a Mod2. Also, my initial experiments were conducted with the camera sitting on the edge of a table rather than on a tripod, but I have since started using a tripod.

Since your early experiments did not use a tripod and the camera is certainly a late model, I doubt that the tripod mount is causing the problem. If you had been using a tripod and the screw was particularly long, I thought --a long shot-- it could have deformed the body enough to affect the AF.

 

[Dave Krueger]

Since your early experiments did not use a tripod and the camera is certainly a late model, I doubt that the tripod mount is causing the problem. If you had been using a tripod and the screw was particularly long, I thought --a long shot-- it could have deformed the body enough to affect the AF.

Okay, thanks for the extra details. In that case I should be safe. I don't know that the screws on my Bogen tripods are particularly long, but I never screw them in all the way in any case. Not sure what made me adopt that precaution, but that's the way I've been doing it for years. I probably read on a forum somewhere decades ago that it's a good idea.

 

[ic-racer]

Without the autofocus, did you tests show the film plane and focus screen agree or don't agree? If they don't agree, that would be grounds to send the camera back.

 

[ic-racer]

Is that 80mm lens new from Eric?

 

[ic-racer]

Mod 2 should have a thicker plate, not drilled all the way through, to protect the camera from a long tripod screw.

 

[Dave Krueger]

Without the autofocus, did you tests show the film plane and focus screen agree or don't agree? If they don't agree, that would be grounds to send the camera back.

I took the shots and will develop the film tonight. I did it for all three lenses wide open, manually focused, on a fairly close target. In each case I also manually moved the focusing ring slightly closer toward infinity in two steps (ie: that's a total of three frames per lens).

I also did three autofocus shots with the 50mm at offsets of of 0, +15, and +30, but I forgot to reactivate focusing for the middle shot.

I think the focus error is going to be a lot less pronounced on the wide angle lenses, but it should indicate if there is a trend.

I think that the inability of the camera and lens to mechanically focus at infinity is grounds to send the lens and camera back. At this point, the camera must go back. It's unusable as is.

 

[Dave Krueger]

Is that 80mm lens new from Eric?

Yes.

[edit] The dust really lights up from the light shining through from the back. The lens actually looks pretty clear, but those few circular spots look like they could be the beginnings of something more serious (hopefully not for years).

 

[GG12]

80mm at f11, base iso on Credo 60.

 

[GG12]

or

 

[Dave Krueger]

Mod 2 should have a thicker plate, not drilled all the way through, to protect the camera from a long tripod screw.
View attachment 257569

I can't really tell if it's thicker, but the bottom of the holes are metal on mine and the 3/8 hole has a 1/4 adapter installed in it.

 

[GG12]

Pretty sure this was fixed on the Mod2. With the earlier version, if one had a "too long" tripod mounting screw, it could put pressure on the mother board at the bottom of the camera.

 

[Dave Krueger]

or
View attachment 257582

Very nice work. I can't wait to see how these Schneider lenses perform. I was never thrilled with the Mamiya lenses on my RB-67. The negative was so big, it really didn't matter for what I used it for, but the 50mm wide angle had curvature distortion out the kazoo.

 

[GG12]

Very nice work. I can't wait to see how these Schneider lenses perform. I was never thrilled with the Mamiya lenses on my RB-67. The negative was so big, it really didn't matter for what I used it for, but the 50mm wide angle had curvature distortion out the kazoo.

Thanks. You'll be pleased with the lenses. Please note that the above images are jpgs, and reduced to fit. There's a lot more in the images.

 

[Pieter12]

80mm at f11, base iso on Credo 60.

Nice. Did you get the Credo with the camera or add it later? I'm curious about the availability of digital backs for the Hy6 Mod2.

 

[ic-racer]

This is a 16"x16" print from the 1990s, exposed with the old 40mm Distagon monster lens. I don't have any large prints from the Super-Angulon 40mm yet, but the negatives are noticeably sharper.

 

[GG12]

Got them separately. The Credo 60 was purchased through Capture Integration - Steve Hendrix got me a great deal on it in 2015, and still use it today on Hy6 and a tech camera. It turns out the 60 is really good - big sensor size, and forgiving for shifting or rise/fall too.
Digital backs are not easily found - they don't seem to show up very often. At one time, Phase would do a mount change for a fee. Not sure if they still will. One note - the earlier AFI backs were better integrated with the handle/histogram showing on the handle, the Credo is a bit less so, and doesn't have the rotating sensor. But its easy enough to rotate, even if it can pick up a bit of dust - its easy to clean. Recommended for the Hy6. While the Credo is like an IQ 1XX series, and thus not the newest, it works really well. Live view is poor, but sometimes usable (better when not in bright sun); tethering works, and the image quality at base ISO is quite nice.

 

[Pieter12]

Got them separately. The Credo 60 was purchased through Capture Integration - Steve Hendrix got me a great deal on it in 2015, and still use it today on Hy6 and a tech camera. It turns out the 60 is really good - big sensor size, and forgiving for shifting or rise/fall too.
Digital backs are not easily found - they don't seem to show up very often. At one time, Phase would do a mount change for a fee. Not sure if they still will. One note - the earlier AFI backs were better integrated with the handle/histogram showing on the handle, the Credo is a bit less so, and doesn't have the rotating sensor. But its easy enough to rotate, even if it can pick up a bit of dust - its easy to clean. Recommended for the Hy6. While the Credo is like an IQ 1XX series, and thus not the newest, it works really well. Live view is poor, but sometimes usable (better when not in bright sun); tethering works, and the image quality at base ISO is quite nice.

Thanks. I wonder what is out there now...

 

[Arthurwg]

80mm at f11, base iso on Credo 60.

View attachment 257581 [/QUOTE


Beautiful

 

[Dave Krueger]

This is a 16"x16" print from the 1990s, exposed with the old 40mm Distagon monster lens. I don't have any large prints from the Super-Angulon 40mm yet, but the negatives are noticeably sharper.
View attachment 257590

Very nice. Perfect setting to see how sharp a lens is in the corners. Also looks like one of the sets for Breaking Bad.

 

[ic-racer]

Just some math. Using the simple lens equation; 1/p + 1/q = 1/f
If subject is at 3600mm (12ft) and focal point is 3400mm (8 inches in front) and focal length is 80mm

focal plane should be 81.82mm behind the lens if correctly focused
focal plane is actually 81.92mm behind the lens as focused

Difference is 0.1mm

 

[Dave Krueger]

Looking at the situation, I wonder if this is an issue with the film 6060 film back. If it were problem with the lens mount, I'd think the lens mount would be obviously too far out and not flush with the front of the camera.
When you lift the lever in the back, it is supposed to bring the pressureplate up tight to the film rails as the slide opens. If this mechanism were not functioning properly, the film would be too far back and give you these results ( film focal point in front of the subject)

I plan to send the film back in with the camera, but I had no idea it that it works like what you describe. When I move the slide lever, I don't see the pressure plate moving as the curtain rolls back. I agree about the lens mount. In fact, I really don't see anything that could cause the problem I'm having. I'd like to explore this theory a little more, so if you can tell me what to look for, I will try to see of it's working. A video would be good...