Rollei Rolleiflex SLX in 2024 - WTB but should I?

[abruzzi]

They are fun cameras, but they are heavy. I have one, then upgraded to a 6006 to get removable backs. They're fun to use, and I like that you get auto exposure with a WLF.

 

[RezaLoghme]

It has indeed! That is what attracted me to it in the first place.
Although...how "giantic" is it...6x6 or larger?

 

[Arthurwg]

I had a 6008i at one time. Fantastic camera, wonderful pictures. But somehow it made me nervous. Too high tech, too much plastic, too complex. That's when I moved on to Hasselblad. These days, if I wanted movements like the SL66, I would look for a Flexbody. But those are very difficult to find with all the (7) components, and rather expensive.

 

[Slixtiesix]

Regardless of the SLX qualities, of which I do not have first hand account, I do not see the reason to switch if you already own an extensive Hasselblad V-kit. If motorized film transport is the reason, just add an ELX/ELD to your collection. Otherwise you need to invest a lot of effort and money to replace your Hasselblad with another 6x6 SLR system that is pretty similar and even uses the same lenses, if only with a different mount.

 

[amokphoto]

Hi,

a Rolleiflex SLX (2nd version, with the wonderful Planar 80mm) was my first mf camera in 1988, still use it... would buy one again.
Meter workes great.
No problems with electronics.
It was two times send for service -
first to solve an issue with film flatness (esp. on thin TP film), then to exchange the battery pack.
The camera is quite heavy (compared with a 500 CM) and so is the mirror flap - I would give it a MR 120 or MRC 120 cable release to get a mirror lock-up.

Best
Jens

Hey
What is the solution with the problem of the „film flatness”?

I’ve got mine slx and need to check my photometer becouse white arrow works only on these times when I check camera for the sunny day on the sky…
When I check on my home on these times change the correct f to 5.6-8 etc and white arrow working ok
Asa f. Time
100 f22 1/2
200 f22 1/4
400 f22 f1/8
800 f22 1/15
1600 f22 1/30
3200 f22 1/60
6400 f22 1/125

But when I change the knob to 1/500 and press the button white arrow not working and showing f2.8 only the same as sunny day
It is normal? Yours cameras (white arrow) works on 1/250 1/500 on the full sunnynday on asa 100 or 200?

 

[JensH]

Hey

Hi!

What is the solution with the problem of the „film flatness”?

They replaced the film gate, saying the old one was broken. This was at Rollei, Braunschweig in 1997...

I’ve got mine slx and need to check my photometer becouse white arrow works only on these times when I check camera for the sunny day on the sky…
When I check on my home on these times change the correct f to 5.6-8 etc and white arrow working ok
Asa f. Time
100 f22 1/2
200 f22 1/4
400 f22 f1/8
800 f22 1/15
1600 f22 1/30
3200 f22 1/60
6400 f22 1/125

But when I change the knob to 1/500 and press the button white arrow not working and showing f2.8 only the same as sunny day
It is normal? Yours cameras (white arrow) works on 1/250 1/500 on the full sunnynday on asa 100 or 200?

No problems here as long I'm not out of the metering range (when the white indicator next to the shutter speed knob turns red).
A 1/250s or 1/500 in the sun at 100 - 200 ASA is not extreme... I will check anyway the next days.

Best
Jens

 

[amokphoto]

Hi!

They replaced the film gate, saying the old one was broken. This was at Rollei, Braunschweig in 1997...


No problems here as long I'm not out of the metering range (when the white indicator next to the shutter speed knob turns red).
A 1/250s or 1/500 in the sun at 100 - 200 ASA is not extreme... I will check anyway the next days.

Best
Jens

My red window on the time knob not working
I think it’s not a big problem and I still can use the camera without it
But my question is…
When you have on time knob 1/250 or 1/500, asa 100 or 200 and point on the sky on the day the indicator ON THE LENS working? and you have situation like aperture change to f11 / f8 / f5.6 or still is on 2.8 only ?
Becouse mine on these settings shows only 2.8 (in my opinion it’s weird becouse I think on asa 100 or 200 on sunnyday at 1/500 aperture should be like around f5.6 or something)
But maybe I’m wrong…
I bought slx one week ago, really love this camera but maybe I don’t understand how it works (the Automatic mode)

 

[JensH]

My red window on the time knob not working
I think it’s not a big problem and I still can use the camera without it
But my question is…
When you have on time knob 1/250 or 1/500, asa 100 or 200 and point on the sky on the day the indicator ON THE LENS working? and you have situation like aperture change to f11 / f8 / f5.6 or still is on 2.8 only ?
Becouse mine on these settings shows only 2.8 (in my opinion it’s weird becouse I think on asa 100 or 200 on sunnyday at 1/500 aperture should be like around f5.6 or something)
But maybe I’m wrong…
I bought slx one week ago, really love this camera but maybe I don’t understand how it works (the Automatic mode)

I will test... but now it's 2 am here ;-)

 

[JensH]

Hi!

But my question is…
When you have on time knob 1/250 or 1/500, asa 100 or 200 and point on the sky on the day the indicator ON THE LENS working? and you have situation like aperture change to f11 / f8 / f5.6 or still is on 2.8 only ?

... sunny out here, so I did the test:
200 ASA, t = 1/500s, f ring (on the Planar 2.8/80mm) set to A. Power on. Camera pointed to the sky.

Pressing the meter button the indicator jumps to f=11 (blue sky), then f=16 (sky/white cloud mix), even 22 (white clouds only). Meter button was pressed again for every change, camera reacts instandly.
Pointing directly to the sun, the "over" led turns on in the finder.

Switching to t=1/250s the f stop closes one more stop.

Becouse mine on these settings shows only 2.8 (in my opinion it’s weird becouse I think on asa 100 or 200 on sunnyday at 1/500 aperture should be like around f5.6 or something)
But maybe I’m wrong…

There is something going wrong.

Is the battery fine and charged?
Are the electric contacts (those golden pins and surfaces) between camera and lens clean? You could clean them using a cotton swab and a bit of lighter fluid...

I hope it helps
Best
Jens

 

[amokphoto]

Hi!

... sunny out here, so I did the test:
200 ASA, t = 1/500s, f ring (on the Planar 2.8/80mm) set to A. Power on. Camera pointed to the sky.

Pressing the meter button the indicator jumps to f=11 (blue sky), then f=16 (sky/white cloud mix), even 22 (white clouds only). Meter button was pressed again for every change, camera reacts instandly.
Pointing directly to the sun, the "over" led turns on in the finder.

Switching to t=1/250s the f stop closes one more stop.


There is something going wrong.

Is the battery fine and charged?
Are the electric contacts (those golden pins and surfaces) between camera and lens clean? You could clean them using a cotton swab and a bit of lighter fluid...

I hope it helps
Best
Jens

My problem is solved!
Camera works in full range!
The problem was in the wrong setting of 'time knob"...
Someone must have tightened the screws incorrectly, the knob was in the wrong position inside...
Thank you for your time!

 

[JensH]

My problem is solved!
Camera works in full range!
The problem was in the wrong setting of 'time knob"...
Someone must have tightened the screws incorrectly, the knob was in the wrong position inside...
Thank you for your time!

Wow, fantastic!


Enjoy and best wishes
Jens

 

[RezaLoghme]

Just recently, I handled another one, in a well known pre-owned camera shop. It had a distinct 1980s vibe - which is not bad for a 1970s camera. but somehow it triggered memories, associations, emotions. I decided not to buy it and to bin the plan altogether.

 

[Rufus SLX]

Preface: I tried the search function and could not find a lot. I searched the usual suspects, all the well-knonw blogs that publish tests and reviews of vintage cameras. It seems the SLX is not really in fashion at the moment.

I am mildly interested. As an owner of Hasselblad's V system, there is nothing the SLX can do which my current gear cannot do. On a bad day, the SLX looks like the lovechild of a 2.8GX and some Mamiya MF SLR.

And still. I somehow like the SLX. Are here owners who are willing to share their experience?

I am only interested in the original SLX, not the later 6xxxx models.

I like mine.

I'm based in Germany, where there is a relatively plentiful supply. However, even Paepke near Düsseldorf which I think is the last repair shop in the EU to service the 6000 series will not repair SLX models as they are too old. I have 2 SLXs with the silver shutter release buttons and one later model SLX with the black buttons that everyone says is better. All work fine. But, like old cars, you can expect some of them to have issues as they are getting on for 50 years old, such as inoperable shutters, sticky mirror return mechanisms and apertures and grease drying up in the film transport motordrive.

I would say, if you are patient and shop around on Ebay etc, you can get one for quite a bit less than a Hasselblad which also require servicing/break from time to time.
The SLX light meters seem very accurate - with it built in to the camera body means the finders cost less. lenses can be had for €100 upwards if you wait and look around. I recently bought a working SLX with 50, 80 and 150 mm lenses for €110. Often people sell them without the charger or without the battery/or with a dead battery. More often than not, when you try the camera with a good battery it will work - at least this has been my experience and was the outcome when I recently bought a 6008 with a PQ 80 lens with no battery for less than half the price they normally go for.

The battery is absolutely no issue: They are very easy to recell by anyone with an ounce of practical common sense. Either you buy a set of cells ready-to-fit or if you have spot-welder for the nickel strip that connects the eight cells, you can make your own pack and save more money. Ready-to-fit sets of cells are about €26-€35, you just have to solder on a couple of wires to the tabs on the pack and off you go. Remember to fit the plastic cover you hopefully carefully removed from the original pack as this is the insulation between the cells and the metal battery housing. NiCd batteries can still be bought, so you can continue to use your Rollei charger.

If you use NiMh batteries, strip out everything off the circuit board in the Rollei charger and buy a cheap NiCd/NiMh charger for 8 cells. Wire this charger up to the pins that connect with the battery when it is placed the Rollei charger - these are just two pins - don't get the polarity wrong. You can either drill a hole and run the charger's cable right up to the pins and solder it on or put a jack socket on the side. This will allow you to charge both types of battery with one charger and the modern chargers have more sophisticated electronics which will ensure your batteries last longer. You can also use any NiCd/NiMh charger for 8 cells for RC toys and fit a domestic electrical connector to the charger and insert two nails/short lengths of solid copper wire to the other side and, again ensuring correct polarity - shove the wires into the respective holes for the pins in the end of the battery - this will work just as well, it's just not so convenient. If you get the polarity wrong, it just blows the replaceable fuse in the battery.

I was recently travelling and had forgotten my charger. I simply used a friend's 12v 500mAh charger for a li-ion screwdriver attached to a jackplug socket and two wires for about an hour, which also charged my battery. Obviously you have to work out roughly how long to charge it for in this case, but it worked.

The only tangible difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 SLX cameras in my experience is when you use PQ lenses. These lenses are designed for use in the 6008 cameras. They are backwards compatible with earlier models. However, I found they make the under- and overexposure LEDs light up even when the light is within range, with my Mk1 SLX cameras. This is annoying but if the needle in the lens indicates a working aperture, then all is fine.

If you use an external lightmeter or a digital camera rather like using a Polaroid in the distant past, none of this matters. There is no difference to the non-PQ and PQ/S lenses in terms of optical quality. Some later lenses are, however, more modern designs and mostly were never made in non-PQ/S versions. These include the 180/2.8, 110/2.8 Heidosmat 80 mm lenses.

 

[Rufus SLX]

Hey
What is the solution with the problem of the „film flatness”?

I’ve got mine slx and need to check my photometer becouse white arrow works only on these times when I check camera for the sunny day on the sky…
When I check on my home on these times change the correct f to 5.6-8 etc and white arrow working ok
Asa f. Time
100 f22 1/2
200 f22 1/4
400 f22 f1/8
800 f22 1/15
1600 f22 1/30
3200 f22 1/60
6400 f22 1/125

But when I change the knob to 1/500 and press the button white arrow not working and showing f2.8 only the same as sunny day
It is normal? Yours cameras (white arrow) works on 1/250 1/500 on the full sunnynday on asa 100 or 200?

Could be corrosion on the contacts which are made in the shutter speed knob? Maybe spray a bit of contact cleaner between the knob and the camera body and turn the knob backwards and forwards to remove any dirt/oxidation? Ok your leatherette will probably fall off using this method It may be a case of 1/500th not being used as much as the other speeds, hence the oxidation. But it could be something else...