If the result looks blueish (sometimes cyan-blue highlights) with low contrast or weak high densities contamination with fixer may be a problem.
T
For temperature, there are a few cathes;
1) Make sure your FILM and TANK are at temperature before starting (a decent preheat, at least 5 minutes without prewet, preferably more, or a 2-stage prewet with carefully measured temperature)
2) Make sure your DEVELOPER is at correct temperature. Measure the developer, not only water bath.
If your process is not consistent, it's hard to say whether one process is more forgiving than other. After all, what the inconsistency is, it's randomness, and you can have good results by luck. Make your process consistent.
I would say that 4 inversions every 30 seconds is almost too much for this kit, though it may have something to do with the way the top vent is constructed on my plastic tank.
I have no experience of this kit but I'd be surprised if it isn't designed to work with Jobo processors which in effect is the equivalent of continuous inversion. If 4 inversions every 30 secs is too much then you'd think that continuous cycles of rotation in both directions would render this kit useless.
I'd be interested in other's comments on the OP's conclusion on inversions and the use of Jobo continuous rotation.
pentaxuser
Follow the times and temeratures in the instructionsheet
Agreed most heartily. It seems that the best thing to do is buy the 5 gal kodak or fuji kits, deal with the space issue and the volume issue, and just shoot enough film to make it worthwhile.C-41 is C-41 is C-41. There's nothing "designed" "specially" "for Jobo". (Almost) continuous agitation is of course needed for C-41 and this is true for every kit. They all use the same developing agent (or should use it), which has the same properties, and the diffusion is largely controlled by film, temperature and time.
This BS factory is really starting to irritate me. When there are problems, people say: "This is just repackaged Fuji chemistry, so it cannot be faulty!" And then, after a few moments, it's something super-hyper re-designed specially for Jobo, and it runs at every temperature. How can it be, if it's just Fuji chemistry? Or is it just Fuji chemistry? Or has Fuji designed this novel, groundbreaking product just for Rollei, and if yes, why in the world they won't sell it under their own name?
I hear about terrible gunk after Final Rinse, I hear about consistency problems and leaking bottles. Instructions are proved faulty in many regards. They omit important washes, and they give false information that you can process at any temperature, giving the compensation list. I'm not surprised I was proven right by the test provided in this thread. The results are far from perfect, and far from the results at standard temperature. They can be interesting for experimenting, but that is true for any kit! Time-temp compensation works if the quality is compromised as a trade-off, but there's nothing new in this.
I wish it was easier to buy C-41 chemistry...! There are many products on the market but most of them are very difficult to buy.
A
How can film chemicals be 'made specially' for a jobo machine?!? didn't the chems come before the machine?.
I think PE has posted the compensation table (scan from an older Kodak instruction) many times, they are for Kodak chemistry but they should work in the same way. Tetenal should also be same.
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