That's what I thought. Thank you. Hopefully drying won't be an issue.
Rollei Digibase C-41
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You can use any stabilizer / final rinse sold for E-6 as a substitute for a C-41 stabilizer / final rinse.
So if you drop or spill etc. the stabilizer in your Digibase kit you can use any stabilizer for E-6 instead of chasing that specific final rinse. If you have some final rinse for E-6 in larger quantity or easier sourcing you can use that and avoid rolling the tank on the floor if this poses a problem.
As far as rinsing is concerned if your local tap water is of normal quality it should be fine for all washes. Distilled water is useful to dilute the stabilizer / final rinse because it helps you avoid water marks on the film after drying, but for all other stages (dilution or washing) does not give any advantage over normal quality tap water.
So if you drop or spill etc. the stabilizer in your Digibase kit you can use any stabilizer for E-6 instead of chasing that specific final rinse. If you have some final rinse for E-6 in larger quantity or easier sourcing you can use that and avoid rolling the tank on the floor if this poses a problem.
As far as rinsing is concerned if your local tap water is of normal quality it should be fine for all washes. Distilled water is useful to dilute the stabilizer / final rinse because it helps you avoid water marks on the film after drying, but for all other stages (dilution or washing) does not give any advantage over normal quality tap water.
I think you can buy stabilizer/final rinse by itself from the Photographer's Formulary.
What a confusing kit. They give you:
50ml Part A
50ml Part B, but
65ml Part C.
I caught myself before I poured it all, but I'm sure I poured more than the prescribed 50ml.
What's the risk?
50ml Part A
50ml Part B, but
65ml Part C.
I caught myself before I poured it all, but I'm sure I poured more than the prescribed 50ml.
What's the risk?
My Fuji kit is nearly done so I'm looking at getting the 5L (100-roll) Rollei kit from Maco. Got some questions though:
- does anyone here use it replenished?
- does anyone have a scan of the manual they could post?
- Part C life is quoted as 2-3 years. Is that total life or life after opening?
Reason for the latter question is that I have loads of leftover bleach+fix from my two Fuji kits so I was going to get an extra litre of each of the developer parts (~200 rolls worth) to use that up. I want to make sure that the part C doesn't die on the shelf before I even open the bottle. And buying it all at once saves me about $80 in shipping...
- does anyone here use it replenished?
- does anyone have a scan of the manual they could post?
- Part C life is quoted as 2-3 years. Is that total life or life after opening?
Reason for the latter question is that I have loads of leftover bleach+fix from my two Fuji kits so I was going to get an extra litre of each of the developer parts (~200 rolls worth) to use that up. I want to make sure that the part C doesn't die on the shelf before I even open the bottle. And buying it all at once saves me about $80 in shipping...
As I understand things the manual as written has several bits missing. If you look at much earlier posts you will see what these are( I can't remember) and be able to complete the full process.
pentaxuser
pentaxuser
Yes, I found that 2-page flyer in the product listing. I was hoping for detailed instructions though that would tell me replenishment rates, not just capacity for a batch, and/or time-extension tables for use when running a batch to exhaustion instead of replenishing. Obviously I could use (replenishment rate = batch size / nominal capacity = 50mL/roll) but that invites over-replenishment because capacity with replenishment should be better than capacity by run-to-exhaustion. And I don't have the C41 control strips etc to determine whether I've gone wrong and am running too-thick soup.
The Rollei kit isn't Fuji chemistry, or at least it's not the same chemistry as in the Fuji Press kit though I could believe it's Fuji minilab soup. The Fuji kit has no separate starter (I presume it's mixed in with one of the dev components or omitted entirely) and provides a time-extension table with 5 steps over the life of a working-solution. And the Fuji concentrate ratios are unequal whereas the Rollei uses equal parts A/B/C. Of course, the Rollei parts could have been made by diluting the Fuji parts into larger quantities.
Missing wash steps in the instructions are well-complained-about here, so no problems with that.
The Rollei kit isn't Fuji chemistry, or at least it's not the same chemistry as in the Fuji Press kit though I could believe it's Fuji minilab soup. The Fuji kit has no separate starter (I presume it's mixed in with one of the dev components or omitted entirely) and provides a time-extension table with 5 steps over the life of a working-solution. And the Fuji concentrate ratios are unequal whereas the Rollei uses equal parts A/B/C. Of course, the Rollei parts could have been made by diluting the Fuji parts into larger quantities.
Missing wash steps in the instructions are well-complained-about here, so no problems with that.
In the regular Rollei Digibase C41 kits the lifespan of part C is about one year in concentrate. The Rollei Digibase C41 manual is complete except that in case of re-use you have to wash with destilled water between the steps.
When using a Jobo rotary processor with elevator the whole process is very easy to do with a small volume of C41 chemicals. Rollei Digibase C41 is a small Fuji Hunt mini-lab C41 version from Belgium and even when doing not so many films it is a good solution for DIY C41 film development.
When using a Jobo rotary processor with elevator the whole process is very easy to do with a small volume of C41 chemicals. Rollei Digibase C41 is a small Fuji Hunt mini-lab C41 version from Belgium and even when doing not so many films it is a good solution for DIY C41 film development.
That one year - is that one year from manufacture or one year from opening?
Rollei Digibase C-41 colour chemicals are also sold as single separate baths, so maybe - if one finds them - the better solution to long-term conservation problems is to buy only the baths which are needed instead of buying a new kit any time.
The only shop I know so far which sells these chemicals as single baths is General Photo Dead Link Removed in Germany.
The important news is that the single bath are sold by the factory. Maybe you can ask Rollei about sellers in that part of the planet.
The only shop I know so far which sells these chemicals as single baths is General Photo Dead Link Removed in Germany.
The important news is that the single bath are sold by the factory. Maybe you can ask Rollei about sellers in that part of the planet.
One year after opening the bottle and you have to use anti-oxidant protection gas like Tetenal protectan. The para-Phenylene Diamine is the critical component in that part C C41 developer. If it is turning to Purple it is not OK anymore.
Bleach and Fixer are not critical at all. Also not the Stabilizer and Starter.
Bleach and Fixer are not critical at all. Also not the Stabilizer and Starter.
Macodirect also sells the active ingredients separately (100mL and 1000mL quantities).
I just read the whole thread, well scanned some of it. 
The instructions for my C41 mini kit (500ml) is confusing to me when used on the stabilizer with a Jobo 1540 tank.
Per the instructions for my Jobo 1540 tank:
Developer 470ml Rotation (Water 325ml, Part A 47ml, Part B 47 ml, Part C 47ml, Starter 4.7ml)
Bleacher 470ml Rotation (Water 338ml, Bleach 132 ml)
Fixer 470ml Rotation (Water 376ml, Fixer 94 ml)
Stabilizer 470ml Rotation (Water 423ml, Stabilizer 47ml) Supplied size is 25ml of stabilizer
I assume that since the instructions specifically state a Jobo tank size, in my case the 1540 that I need 470ml of fluid to properly cover the film in a rotation setup. Thus the stabilizer in the mini kit at 25ml is not enough for this tank and I should use a larger kit to ensure I have at least 470ml for each chemical. Is this correct?
Instructions attached
The instructions for my C41 mini kit (500ml) is confusing to me when used on the stabilizer with a Jobo 1540 tank.
Per the instructions for my Jobo 1540 tank:
Developer 470ml Rotation (Water 325ml, Part A 47ml, Part B 47 ml, Part C 47ml, Starter 4.7ml)
Bleacher 470ml Rotation (Water 338ml, Bleach 132 ml)
Fixer 470ml Rotation (Water 376ml, Fixer 94 ml)
Stabilizer 470ml Rotation (Water 423ml, Stabilizer 47ml) Supplied size is 25ml of stabilizer
I assume that since the instructions specifically state a Jobo tank size, in my case the 1540 that I need 470ml of fluid to properly cover the film in a rotation setup. Thus the stabilizer in the mini kit at 25ml is not enough for this tank and I should use a larger kit to ensure I have at least 470ml for each chemical. Is this correct?
Instructions attached
Attachments
First of all, welcome on APUG.
To answer you question:
Stabilizer is not used inside the tank and certainly not inside a Jobo tank linked to a "lift".
The correct operation is to repeatedly and maniacally wash the tank with the film, and the Jobo lift if any, after fixing.
Then you extract your films one by one and wash them in a container where you prepared some diluted stabilizer. I personally use a round glass food container (Frigoverre, if you are Italian you possibly know them) which is not much larger and not much taller than my reels.
After one minute or so in the bath (with a little agitation) you take the film away, hang it to dry, and repeat the operation with the second film, then the third and so on*.
Stabilizer can be reused many times, until it remains transparent it is fine. Just wash the fixer very well before putting the film in the stabilizer. Washing the fixer is something mandatory in any case.
The instructions of the Digibase kit don't mention a wash bath between bleach and fixer. That's not very kosher.
Sequence should be:
Developer
(acid arrest, optional)
Bleach
Wash
Fixer
Wash very well
Stabilizer
For modern C-41 film any stabilizer will do, so if you happen to be short of stabilizer for whatever reason you can use a stabilizer sold for slide film or a stabilizer from another kit. Anything labelled "final bath" or "stabilizer" will work. A simple "foto-flo" or something labelled "surfectant" will not be enough.
* Some people on APUG will actually advice against putting the reel inside the stabilizer. In that case you would extract the film from the reel and put it in the stabilizer. It's a bit more messy for sure. I immediately wash the reels with soap after the stabilizer.
To answer you question:
Stabilizer is not used inside the tank and certainly not inside a Jobo tank linked to a "lift".
The correct operation is to repeatedly and maniacally wash the tank with the film, and the Jobo lift if any, after fixing.
Then you extract your films one by one and wash them in a container where you prepared some diluted stabilizer. I personally use a round glass food container (Frigoverre, if you are Italian you possibly know them) which is not much larger and not much taller than my reels.
After one minute or so in the bath (with a little agitation) you take the film away, hang it to dry, and repeat the operation with the second film, then the third and so on*.
Stabilizer can be reused many times, until it remains transparent it is fine. Just wash the fixer very well before putting the film in the stabilizer. Washing the fixer is something mandatory in any case.
The instructions of the Digibase kit don't mention a wash bath between bleach and fixer. That's not very kosher.
Sequence should be:
Developer
(acid arrest, optional)
Bleach
Wash
Fixer
Wash very well
Stabilizer
For modern C-41 film any stabilizer will do, so if you happen to be short of stabilizer for whatever reason you can use a stabilizer sold for slide film or a stabilizer from another kit. Anything labelled "final bath" or "stabilizer" will work. A simple "foto-flo" or something labelled "surfectant" will not be enough.
* Some people on APUG will actually advice against putting the reel inside the stabilizer. In that case you would extract the film from the reel and put it in the stabilizer. It's a bit more messy for sure. I immediately wash the reels with soap after the stabilizer.
Perfect, thank you. My father was Italian but only taught me curse words which I am sure will come in handy developing film 
With a Jobo-type reel it just means to unlock and take off the upper spiral, turn around the lower spiral above a small bassin with stabilizer and let the film fall into it. Not a mess I suppose.
I personally find that doing stabiliser while film is still in the reel is a good idea, though I take the reels from the tank and do them individually as Diapositivo suggests. If you unspool the film (in 120 at least) and slosh it around gently in a container, the corners of the roll will scratch the soft emulsion - that one I learned the hard way.
Not just, but if the film is a 135 the coils will tend to come very near to each other (difficult to explain in words: just try) thus not favouring a proper bath of the film. In order to be sure that the film is well soaked in the bath one should take some tweezers and separate the coils. I prefer keeping the film in the reel because that way I am certain that the film is well soaked. YMMV.
Just clean the reels with soap and an old toothbrush. Easy to do.
A blast of hot water (50C from the tap) is sufficient.
I assume that common warning about doing the final rinse/stabilizing is rather caused by the idea that after hanging films for drying one could forget to rinse the reels at all, than by any fact of hard to get-off residues of the last bath.
But even then any residues should be rather harmless. Formaldehyde (if used at all) will have evaporated and wetting agent and biocide should be low in concentration or harmless as such. Though one can argue about that.
So yes, if you are afraid to scratch wet film whilst unloading, keep them in the reel for the last bath.
But even then any residues should be rather harmless. Formaldehyde (if used at all) will have evaporated and wetting agent and biocide should be low in concentration or harmless as such. Though one can argue about that.
So yes, if you are afraid to scratch wet film whilst unloading, keep them in the reel for the last bath.
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2013
- Messages
- 7
- Format
- 35mm
(hello everybody, long time lurker here)
Developed my first three rolls with the Rollei kit and wanted to report an interesting finding. Stabilizer concentration, as reported on the bottle of the 5L kit is not the same as the PDF. In fact, it's half of that. If you use the PDF concentration you'll run out of stabilizer before time.
From my experience, the correct concentration is that of the bottle. On the first roll I had the stab with a 10% concentration (as per PDF instructions) and a few stains, then I diluted it to 5% (as the bottle requires) and most of the marks are gone from the two subsequent rolls. Hope this can help someone.
Developed my first three rolls with the Rollei kit and wanted to report an interesting finding. Stabilizer concentration, as reported on the bottle of the 5L kit is not the same as the PDF. In fact, it's half of that. If you use the PDF concentration you'll run out of stabilizer before time.
From my experience, the correct concentration is that of the bottle. On the first roll I had the stab with a 10% concentration (as per PDF instructions) and a few stains, then I diluted it to 5% (as the bottle requires) and most of the marks are gone from the two subsequent rolls. Hope this can help someone.
Welcome maxmars,
although your observation is interesting, generally speaking the final bath can be reused for many, many times, so that in fact one never ends it too early. I mean you can rinse 20 rolls in the same water without making a new bath. The important is that the film is well rinsed with water before putting it in the final rinse so that the latter doesn't become polluted with time.
although your observation is interesting, generally speaking the final bath can be reused for many, many times, so that in fact one never ends it too early. I mean you can rinse 20 rolls in the same water without making a new bath. The important is that the film is well rinsed with water before putting it in the final rinse so that the latter doesn't become polluted with time.
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