Reversal RA-4 experiment thread.

[Photo Engineer]

I used tap water.

And as for expired, I have never tried it but I do know that the Fuji paper was harder to work with by reports here and on PN.

PE

 

[himself]

PE,

Your timing is excellent.
I just logged on to say that it finally worked!

I mixed up a new batch of developer (ilford multigrade) and stop and the process worked just as expected with no trouble at all. My only guess could be that the stop bath got contaminated with fixer, which was then killing the process. Typical right.

All I have to do now is work out the colour correction. I've already tried using a blue and orange filter to get some sort of base and orange is on the right track.

It's a very deep orange and the final image is a little too orange, but it's a start!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Congratulations!

 

[himself]

Congratulations!

thanks.

I thought I was going a bit loopy to be honest and I was surprised to see it work.

 

[bvy]

I'm back home and have access to my notes. For in-camera exposure, I was placing a filter pack in front of my lens: 50M + 50Y + 85B. This was fine for daylight shots, a little purplish under strobes, but I have a feeling I'd have been splitting hairs trying to correct it. It might just be the nature of the beast. As I was shooting 8x10, the combined filter factors and the bellows extension meant that a lot of light was needed. My outdoor shots (bright overcast or hazy sun) were half a second at f/6.3. Also, the contrast is insane. So good luck!

 

[Photo Engineer]

That 85B cancels part of the M and Y you know. All you get is ND from that part.

PE

 

[bvy]

I thought so, and it means I'm blocking light that I could use. I was trying to find another source or some notes as to how I arrived at it, but couldn't.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Look at the in-camera posts by Bujor B on PN.

He gives his filter pack and has posted some nice photos if they are still there.

PE

 

[himself]

thanks bvy.

minus the 85B, that's about what I'm expecting from my own experiments, with maybe a little more Y.
I doubt I'll be using strobes, so I'm just trying to balance for daylight for now.

PE,
do you mean this thread, or is there another?

 

[Photo Engineer]

That thread is one, but there are several more as well.

PE

 

[himself]

ok, I'll have a dig around.

thanks

 

[himself]

does anyone know if it's possible to pre-flash colour paper to control contrast as you would with b/w paper?

 

[Photo Engineer]

If you are talking reversal processing, then probably not, but for normal negative processing probably yes, but color balance would be a big problem.

PE

 

[himself]

[...] but color balance would be a big problem.

PE

I kinda thought that would be a problem. I suppose it would be possible to overcome it, but would take a lot of experimenting...
or do you think there are just too many variables to get consistent results?

 

[Photo Engineer]

IDK, I control contrast (up or down) by other methods.

A little Sulfite in the CD lowers it and peroxide (3% at 10 ml /l) raises it.

PE

 

[himself]

thanks for the tip.
What about controlling colour saturation, is there a way to boost or reduce that?

**edit

nevermind, I just found you answering this question for someone else on the forum

 

[Roger Cole]

IDK, I control contrast (up or down) by other methods.

A little Sulfite in the CD lowers it and peroxide (3% at 10 ml /l) raises it.

PE

Is that for reversal, regular RA4, or both?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and 100% recycled electrons - because I care.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Roger, it works in the CD and works for both.

PE

 

[Prof_Pixel]

Roger, it works in the CD and works for both.

PE

Peroxide....

Shades of RX chemistry

...of course, the CD would end up being one-shot

 

[Photo Engineer]

Yep, posted here many times.

PE

 

[Roger Cole]

Thanks!

 

[himself]

A little Sulfite in the CD lowers it

PE

how much would be a little?

 

[Rudeofus]

how much would be a little?

Start with a few g/l

 

[himself]

Start with a few g/l

ok, thanks

 

[dale116dot7]

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. I came across this a few days ago and thought I would try it out. I should have posted a photo or scan of my first attempt but it's at home and I"m at work now, I'll do that sometime this weekend. There is a fairly strong cyan cast, but generally not bad considering I only used two sheets of paper to get there. It looks like the FD is the critical one and I just used some Ilfosol 3 which I had lying around. Perhaps I should have tried E6 FD? I was looking at the various chemistry tweaks above as well as the contents of the Fuji RP-305 FD (from the MSDS). Other than the usual suspects (various sulfites and carbonates) I noticed diethylene glycol, pentasodium DTPA, and potassium hydroquinonesulfonate (CAS 21799-87-1). I thought some of this was interesting in that I don't see a few of these in B&W developers but I do see at least two if the interesting ones (the HQ salt and pentasodium DTPA) in E6 FD. I'm curious as to the reason that the different developer and chelating agent are used in here and if that chemistry change evens out the development between layers.