Retina series - lens element question

[BrianShaw]

“bottom of the barrel Xenars”

I think I know what was intended, but I’d characterize Xenar as a “more economical design”. They are a great lens and need to be used with knowledge of their characteristics (not deficiencies). Denigrating that design and then complimenting it is akin to saying someone’s baby smells like a billy goat but has cute dimples.

I enjoyed and appreciate your lens assessments!

 

[removedacct1]

Will the knob advance usually be more trouble-free compared to the lever advance? My IIc has developed a slight sticking in the advance lever return after advancing the film. How do you know when to stop using the knob advance?

If your IIc has problems with the film advance, it desperately needs cleaning and removal/replacement of old lubricants! If you keep using it in this condition, you WILL destroy the cocking rack (its chromed brass) and then you won't be using it at all.

 

[removedacct1]

My all time favorite of the minimalist 35mm camera is the Retina I (type 010) with Ektar 50/3.5 lens.

The "true" Ektar f3.5 lens made by Kodak (Rochester) is the one shown in blee's post, with the CAMEROSITY serial number, which in the case of the Type 010 Retinas is always going to start with either EO (1946) or ES (1947). This is a Tessar (four element) design and exceptionally well executed. This was absolutely state of the art lens technology in 1946/47 and is still remarkably good for modern usage. This lens performs well from wide open to closed down. If you find yourself in a position to acquire one of the Type 010 Retinas with a USA made Ektar lens, don't hesitate to acquire it.

Example photo made with this type of Ektar lens.

Note: some of the Retina Ia's have this Ektar lens mounted also.

 

[markjwyatt]

...If you want to use your Retina in lower light, choose a model with the Xenon. If you will mostly use ƒ/5.6 or smaller, either will be fine.

Or a Rodenstock Heligon f2...

 

[blee1996]

Will the knob advance usually be more trouble-free compared to the lever advance? My IIc has developed a slight sticking in the advance lever return after advancing the film. How do you know when to stop using the knob advance?

Knob advance will still auto stop at each frame, thus it is the same as lever advance in this sense. However it is a bit slower than lever advance, and you have to tension the shutter separately. Both will slow you down, so it is not really great for action shots. But I guess we are not using film and ancient mechanical camera for action shots.

 

[ggray79]

From your comments, I think the top picture is the re-badged and the lower picture is the true Ektar (although on a Retina 1). Is this how to tell the difference? Thanks.

 

[ggray79]

If your IIc has problems with the film advance, it desperately needs cleaning and removal/replacement of old lubricants! If you keep using it in this condition, you WILL destroy the cocking rack (its chromed brass) and then you won't be using it at all.

Who does the CLA's on Retinas now? Or is it easy to get to the film advance components?

 

[albada]

Who does the CLA's on Retinas now? Or is it easy to get to the film advance components?

@paulbarden both CLA's and repairs Retinas. Reports about him are good.
I've repaired them myself, and can testify that the cocking rack is something to be wary of.

 

[removedacct1]

From your comments, I think the top picture is the re-badged and the lower picture is the true Ektar (although on a Retina 1). Is this how to tell the difference? Thanks.

View attachment 327028
View attachment 327029

Both of those are genuine Ektars, as evidenced by the EO or ES serial numbers. Only true Kodak Ektars use this serial code

 

[removedacct1]

Who does the CLA's on Retinas now? Or is it easy to get to the film advance components?

I’m the Retina technician who took over for Chris Sherlock when he retired. See: https://kodakretina.exposure.co/kodak-retina-camera-cla-and-repair-service

Some Retina parts are easy to find, but the IIIc type cocking racks are now extremely rare. The best thing is to avoid damaging the one you’ve got. New ones are expensive.

 

[JPD]

Both of those are genuine Ektars, as evidenced by the EO or ES serial numbers. Only true Kodak Ektars use this serial code

And the "Made in U.S.A." engraving makes it even more obvious.

 

[removedacct1]

And the "Made in U.S.A." engraving makes it even more obvious.

Yeah, there is that too!

 

[ggray79]

And the "Made in U.S.A." engraving makes it even more obvious.

Thanks for the clarification!

 

[ggray79]

@paulbarden both CLA's and repairs Retinas. Reports about him are good.
I've repaired them myself, and can testify that the cocking rack is something to be wary of.

Thanks for the info!

 

[JPD]

The Kodak factory in Stuttgart couldn't get enough Schneider lenses in the years after the war, so that's why some for export to the US got American made Ektar lenses, and some for the European market got Rodenstock lenses (Ysar and Heligon).

 

[removedacct1]

The Kodak factory in Stuttgart couldn't get enough Schneider lenses in the years after the war, so that's why some for export to the US got American made Ektar lenses, and some for the European market got Rodenstock lenses (Ysar and Heligon).

And those who got the American made Ektar lenses got one of the best lenses of its kind ever made!