RB67 pro s ?

[narsuitus]

So with no disks inserted, it's a basic 150mm lens even at f/4 and f/5.6 then, right?

Correct

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

Are you sure that this is "correct"???

In all other soft focus lenses that use "tea-strainer" discs that I know (Rodenstock Tiefenbildner Imagon, Fujinon SF...), discs are used as spherical aberration limiters. They are not diffusion discs, actually they act the other way around. So unless this lens is radically different by all other lenses of the same kind, at f:4 and f:5,6 without any disc in place it should behave as an ultra-soft focus 150mm lens with an overwhelming soft focus effect.

 

[macfred]

From the manual :

... The soft focus effect is eliminated when this lens is stopped down to f/8 or more so
the same sharp images obtained with standard lenses are available when desired.
And the soft focus effect can be varied at will by using the three different Softness discs ...

http://www.reznitsky.info/Mamiya/Doc/RB67_150mm_Soft_Focus.pdf

 

[Alan Gales]

From what I remember, by not using a disc at the lenses' largest aperture it is at it's softest. Various discs lessened the effect (how much) depending upon which disc was used. At f/8 the lens is always sharp. I never used an SF 150 lens myself but I did sell one once.

Good luck finding the discs separately. They were hard to find and were usually pricey for just the discs. The lens with the discs were pretty cheap on eBay. I used to sell a lot on eBay but I haven't checked prices for a long time.

Overall, I did quite well on eBay but every once in a while I lost a little money. It's just part of doing business. I think I probably broke even on the 150 SF. I also had an RZ 180 SF with all three discs. It was very close to mint, in the original box/packaging with instructions. I lost money on that. If I remember correctly the lens sold for about $100. Crazy huh? I never bought any more Mamiya SF lenses!

 

[mark]

Before you shoot anything important, put a test roll through each film back to make sure there are no light leaks. I discovered a major light leak near the hinge of several backs.

Also, thoroughly clean each back to remove dust.


RB67 Light Leak by Narsuitus, on Flickr

Thanks. I have a couple reseal kits for the RB on order. It is the first order of business.

 

[tedr1]

Discs reduce the softening effect by fading out peripheral rays through the lens.

So there are two adjustments:

1. aperture
2. disc choice

f4 + disc 3 is sharper than
f4 + disc 2 is sharper than
f4 + disc 1 is sharper than
f4 no disc

same series using f5.6 but all sharper than f4

f8 is always sharp the disc makes no difference because the central aperture of the disc is about the same diameter as the f8 lens aperture and all the peripheral rays are already cut off.

this is tricky to read about but immediately obvious on the camera screen, have fun.

 

[seall]

A few other things to think about:-

If there is dust on the mirror and you feel inclined to remove it then ONLY use a blower, preferably one with a filter in it. NEVER try to wipe / clean the mirror with a brush or cloth. The coating is VERY fragile and can be damaged by touch. The camera will work fine with dust on the mirror so it is not actually necessary to remove any dust type particles you see on it.

The 50mm and 65mm lenses fetch similar prices if in good condition whilst other lenses can be had for much less money such as the 180mm. It is worth watching the auctions and other places for a while to see what turns up. IMHO I would not even consider buying a 50 or 65mm lens unless it was at least a C and in unmarked and as new condition, it is not hard to find great examples and well worth a little extra money if it is asked for.

Learn how to use the small bellows compensation plate on the side of the camera as it is there aid proper exposure for the different lenses.

I have several Pro S and a variety of lenses and other bits. Although none of them are used often they are machines which I don't think twice about using when I don't need movements because they deliver the goods and I am not put off using them in enviromental conditions that I would not dare use a more expensive system in. The mere fact that if it is dropped or falls over you are unlikely to break every single part of the system makes it worth me having as I am a bit clumsey at times.

Great system, good choice, enjoy!

 

[mark]

Well.....It is here and I believe my initial response is the same as anyone who has purchased one without actually handling one in real life. Holy cow, this thing is a beast. It makes my Hartblei modified K88 feel like a feather weight. Shutter sounds good. It did not come with a dark slide so I cannot take the back off yet unless I remove the orientation plate.

I assume the seal kits will be here soon, though it is remarkably clean. For the price I expected a much rougher condition.

 

[Tim Stapp]

Mark, enjoy it. I bought mine on a suggestion from a friend. I absolutely love it. Replacing seals isn't much of a problem. If you get them from Jon Goodman, his instructions are superb.

Keep an eye out for damaged film backs for additional darkslides. I might suggest KEH or Evilbay.

 

[mark]

uh oh. Lens won't come off. Shutter cocks and fires just fine, so according to the instructions the lens should come off. Shutter and camera are both cocked.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

Congratulations on the camera. Can you post a photo of the lens locking ring, and several other photos of the camera, from different angles? What exactly do you mean, that the lens "won't come off"? Does the locking ring turn?

 

[mark]

Locking ring will not turn.

 

[mark]

pictures of the front

 

[tedr1]

Interlocks prevent the ring from completing the final one third of its travel unless the shutter is cocked however my ProS ring turns the first two thirds of its travel in all conditions of the wind/cock mechanism. The ring may be seized. Perhaps some warmth and gentle pressure might ease the ring?

(the ring turns so the red mark approaches the red dot on the body)

 

[MattKing]

I have a 65mm lens where the ring gets quite tight. I just twist a little bit harder than with my other lenses, and it releases.

 

[MattKing]

For clarity, the ring that you turn is the relatively narrow one closest to the body.

 

[mark]

SUCCESS! The shutter lock was not completely locking. A few back and Forths loosened it up and it fully locked. Then I started moving the lens mount ring a little at a time back and forth. It loosened up as well.

 

[darkroommike]

Pardon, but are you sure it's not a 180mm? I don't think I ever heard abt. a 150mm for the RB.

There is a 150mm and it's been around forever. It's a soft focus with "sink strainer" discs like the Imagon.

 

[darkroommike]

So with no disks inserted, it's a basic 150mm lens even at f/4 and f/5.6 then, right?

Still a bit soft wide open but stop it down to f/8 or so and it's pretty sharp.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

...
So there are two adjustments:

1. aperture
2. disc choice

f4 + disc 3 is sharper than
f4 + disc 2 is sharper than
f4 + disc 1 is sharper than
f4 no disc

same series using f5.6 but all sharper than f4
...

So, upon acquiring this lens and before using it for serious portraiture, it seems one should do a series of eight exposures as described above in order to create reference photos and to determine the most pleasing amount of softness. Different subjects may require different softness, so these reference photos would serve as a guide. Is this what people do?

 

[tedr1]

Yes, that is one approach. Another is to zoom-in on the camera as a wedding photography tool and adjust the soft focus to taste for the bride and adjust it to-the-max for the mother of the bride

The effect can be dramatic, for example in an image with strong highlight areas the soft focus spreads the highlights into the shadows. Sometimes this type of soft-focus (deliberate use of lens aberrations) is described as being sharp but with haloes around highlights. There are two things going on at the same time. De-focus blur due to the aberrations, and softening from reduced contrast due to the haloes.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

...adjust it to-the-max for the mother of the bride
...

For that, If optical design engineers could devise a time reversal ring, they could sell a lot of lenses.

 

[mark]

Casually watched the mother of the bride "direct" the amateur wedding photographer on Saturday. The poor photog needed a MOB erase feature.

Why are there so many 180's on the market and so few wide angles?

 

[MattKing]

Why are there so many 180's on the market and so few wide angles?

Because wedding and portrait photographers used the 180.

 

[hol571]

I have the 150SF and found this link comparing the same scene with the different aperture/disk combos helpful when first trying to use the lens: http://lrh.structuregraphs.com/test/sfc150.htm