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I'm hoping someone here has some kind of insight into this in PE's absence, but ECP film seems like a very obscure material and process. I've seen pretty much nothing in regards to attempts to cross processing it or even just generally using it in-camera.
Anyone have any ideas?
* E-6 process -- Film came out completely clear, no density at all even in the unexposed film area
* Clip of custom process after first dev, re-expose, color dev, and bleach and then put back into color dev then bleach/fix again -- Color density developed! I believe this should've just turned the film straight black, but instead did create a very dark positive image with orange "dmin" and green "dmax" with obvious blue dye shining on one side
For reference, the first developer formula:
...
* 1ml of 1% potassium iodide solution
Hi there,Can you tell me where did you get that movie reel? And how much?
Maybe I want to get one.
As you can see, the left strip, which is developed normally, got a pale yellow tint. That means it's fogged?
Indeed, I didn't used a stop bath this time and yes, bleach is ferricyanide based. I remember I washed the film between dev and bleach. I was thinking maybe the film might be fogged by age? It's dated 2009~2010. I will repeat the development with stop bath. But I would try a blank piece of 2383 in bw chemicals. If there is age fog, that should appear also in bw chemicals. What do you think? Does it make any sense?It does look fogged but the cause isn't always exposure to light (so the film might still be good).
You specified ECN2 developer, are you using a ferricyanide bleach as well? it makes me think of the fog seen when a stop/clearing bath isn't used between the developer and bleach.
Indeed, I didn't used a stop bath this time and yes, bleach is ferricyanide based. I remember I washed the film between dev and bleach. I was thinking maybe the film might be fogged by age? It's dated 2009~2010. I will repeat the development with stop bath. But I would try a blank piece of 2383 in bw chemicals. If there is age fog, that should appear also in bw chemicals. What do you think? Does it make any sense?
I just made another ECN2 development of a blank piece of film, this time using the stop bath between developer and bleach. Results are identical with left strip shown in that picture I took earlier. So there is only one more step to be done : black and white development in order to check if the fog is real or is just a fail of my ECN2 chems. For the moment, I am pretty sure it's fog from storing conditions.Normally a stop/clearing bath of acetic acid + sodium sulfite is used between developer and ferricyanide bleach to prevent the bleach from oxidizing the developer (resulting in it reacting with dye couplers generating fog).
BW chemicals makes sense as any fog from age should show no matter the developer (although I'll be a little bit surprised if such a slow film has significant fog after only 10 years).
I’m going to start experimenting this as well. Since I have suppppper expired slides (1980’s Agfa), I was going to check what the first developer conditions will give minimal fog. I’ll be interested in your results.I just made another ECN2 development of a blank piece of film, this time using the stop bath between developer and bleach. Results are identical with left strip shown in that picture I took earlier. So there is only one more step to be done : black and white development in order to check if the fog is real or is just a fail of my ECN2 chems. For the moment, I am pretty sure it's fog from storing conditions.
Do yourself a favor and think. A piece of unexposed film developed properly will deliver the film base as it is. If the film it's fogged, even unexposed, it will show some density after processing. That's how you test if a film it's still fresh or not.should be an edge print about every 18 to 24 inches. (it would be Magenta I believe so it would not interfere with the Cyan of the SDDS soundtrack)
bleach will not have any work to do if their is no developed silver, BUT it will cause bad staining if even a drop gets into the developer. Do yourself a favor and get a copy of the ECP processing manual (free download from Kodak) and try to understand the way that it is supposed to work.
I made an extended experiment in order to check the base of the reel I got. Check the attached image. First strip is C41 processing which gives a greenish layer with density. Second strip is ECN2 processing , which gives a transparent pale-yellow base. Third is still ECN2 processing in this order: bleach + fix +dev, which clears completely any emulsion. The last strip is developed in black and white chemistry : Kodak D97 dev + TMax fixer.I’m going to start experimenting this as well. Since I have suppppper expired slides (1980’s Agfa), I was going to check what the first developer conditions will give minimal fog. I’ll be interested in your results.
Do yourself a favor and think. A piece of unexposed film developed properly will deliver the film base as it is. If the film it's fogged, even unexposed, it will show some density after processing. That's how you test if a film it's still fresh or not.
Kodak 2383 doesn't have edge markings. Also , when you want to see the film base, after bleach and fix you need to use the developer in order to clear the coating. Otherwise, it goes out yellow. First time I used only bleach and fix and base was yellow-foggy. After some developer, it was proper.exactly. one sample with Normal processing, should see edge printing and any fog. One sample omit the developer, (not place it in the wrong order - just omit) should see a totally blank sample of film if Fixer is OK. Bleach will only have any silver that had been reduced previously to deal with.
very greatI made an extended experiment in order to check the base of the reel I got. Check the attached image. First strip is C41 processing which gives a greenish layer with density. Second strip is ECN2 processing , which gives a transparent pale-yellow base. Third is still ECN2 processing in this order: bleach + fix +dev, which clears completely any emulsion. The last strip is developed in black and white chemistry : Kodak D97 dev + TMax fixer.
The third strip processed with bleach, fixer and dev gives the most clearer base, but there is still a very pale-yellow tint. There are 2 possibilities: this is how the base looks or there is some coating left on it. I noticed that the ECP2 developer recipe contains some sulfuric acid and sodium hydroxide which I think that are also clearing the coating.
Brother, would you allow me to send you a private message with some suggestions?I gave up on this film for a long time, but decided to try it again... and after 1 strip of completely blank film and 2 strips of almost transparent film, I think I'm starting to figure it out. Test slide (direct positive) image under daylight strobe flashes shot at about 1.5 ISO: (quick cell phone pic)
View attachment 287974
The exact process is very much still in flux, but I'll write down the steps:
* Process temp 104F
* Custom first developer 5m
* ECN-2 (sulfuric acid) stop bath, 30s
* Rinse
* Remove film from tank and expose to light for 2m (NOTE: it appears that this film is subject to solarization, so you can overdo this step)
* Rinse/heat to proper 104F temp
* Modified ECP-2 color developer, 3.5m (less bromide, less sulfite, more carbonate, more CD-2)
* ECN-2 stop bath, 30s
* Rinse
* ECN-2 ferricyanide formula bleach, 7m
* Rinse
* C-41 (Kodak) fixer, 2.5m
* Rinse
I don't want to go into details about formulation until I figure it out more. The first dev is currently an MQ dev, but idk if that's the right choice. Anyway here's what I know:
* I tried using a stannous chloride+acetic acid reversal bath. This was a poor idea, I got solarization very easily as well as under exposure
* I'm unsure if the modified ECP-2 color developer formula was required or wise
* This film is VERY easily subject to fog in the first developer. I managed to tame the fog with my non-optimal developer by adding 20ml of 1% benzotriazole to it. I believe this is why the film is so slow. Before this, I got very poor results but the speed the film tended to seem to be with early tests was around 12 or 25 ISO, which is much easier to handle (especially if filtration is required). Specifically the red sensitive (cyan) layer is extremely easy to fog, with the green sensitive (magenta) layer also being relatively easy. Early results with too active of developers which did not have enough restrainer would give either completely clear strips due to fog, or strips with only yellow color and a hint of magenta.
* It is difficult to judge if the film is fogged after first development. If the image is very much visible but completely dark grey and opaque when held against light, it is likely too fogged and will end up processing as clear. The desired results is a carefully balanced translucent with some light greys on highlights and darkgreys on whites, with the darker shadows being a deep red (indicative of very fine grain silver) color which is fairly translucent.
* This film is VERY sensitive to iodide additions. As little as a drop or two of 1% iodide is enough to completely ruin the film. The formula I used for this had 2 drops of 0.1% iodide
* The dmax of this film is incredible, and is much darker than slide film. dmin seems to be a very light and mild grey when properly processed.
Was this processed as negative or positive? I don't doubt CD2 would give better color accuracy and the official Kodak formulas are public for processing this film as expected... but nothing exists for trying to make it a positive film
CD-2 is available from artcraftchemicals.com
Is it the same as used by Cinestill with the remjet removed?
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