Printing large again

[Peter de Groot]

So the last couple of weeks I have been setting up my darkroom to go big once again. I just kept putting it of for some reason. However today i tried my biggest print to date. Not that i am planning on going bigger. The print is drying now. I still use expired paper until my work flow is just right. I am not there yet. So here is me with the print. I used a 4x5 negative in my Durst L184 enlarger. I did use a horizontal setup. For reference i am 6 foot 4 or 1,93m.

 

[Hatchetman]

Wow! I am jealous! Keep us posted.

 

[Ginette]

Fine!
I never try the horizontal projection with my Durst 184. This paper is 30" or 42" x 72"?
Approximatively what distance is needed and what is your focal length?

 

[Peter de Groot]

Fine!
I never try the horizontal projection with my Durst 184. This paper is 30" or 42" x 72"?
Approximatively what distance is needed and what is your focal length?

Thanks. The paper is from Ilford which is 1,27 m. wide. Not sure how much that is in inches though. Enlargement was made from a 4x5 negative so I used a 150mm lens. I have the measure the focal distance though. I’ll post that later.

 

[Ian Grant]

How are you processing. When I made large prints (same size paper) I pinned the paper to a large board for the exposure and processed using a set of sprays, I found it quite economic in terms of chemical use, I used the chemistry slightly more dilute than normal, so PQ Universal at 1+14 rather than 1+9, this helped slow development and allowed even development. I was making much larger images however with our own emulsion sprayed onto painted surfaces.

For slightly smaller 40"x30" FB prints I've processed using sponges.

Ian

 

[Peter de Groot]

How are you processing. When I made large prints (same size paper) I pinned the paper to a large board for the exposure and processed using a set of sprays, I found it quite economic in terms of chemical use, I used the chemistry slightly more dilute than normal, so PQ Universal at 1+14 rather than 1+9, this helped slow development and allowed even development. I was making much larger images however with our own emulsion sprayed onto painted surfaces.

For slightly smaller 40"x30" FB prints I've processed using sponges.

Ian

Hi Ian,

I use gutters to develop the photo. Keep rolling it on and of again. Sort off. Everything up to 40x50 cm I can develop in either a tray or Jobo drums. This setup is not finished though. That is why I am using expired paper for the meantime. When the workflow is adjusted and fine tuned I will buy myself some new paper. I wrote about it earlier this year on my blog. I also made a small video:
http://www.degro-fotografie.nl/blog/printing-large

 

[Peter de Groot]

Oh and this is the way i am trying to straighten the print:
http://www.degro-fotografie.nl/blog/december-31st-2018

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

Thanks for posting about your project Peter! It is impressive. Keep us updated.

 

[larfe]

OK

I made my first 16x20 prints in my make shift darkroom over the weekend and thought it was big... thanks for that

 

[Peter de Groot]

OK

I made my first 16x20 prints in my make shift darkroom over the weekend and thought it was big... thanks for that

Yikes sorry about that...but then again 16x20 is for pussies Haha just kidding of course. How do you handle those? Tray or drum?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

So the last couple of weeks I have been setting up my darkroom to go big once again. I just kept putting it of for some reason. However today i tried my biggest print to date. Not that i am planning on going bigger. The print is drying now. I still use expired paper until my work flow is just right. I am not there yet. So here is me with the print. I used a 4x5 negative in my Durst L184 enlarger. I did use a horizontal setup. For reference i am 6 foot 4 or 1,93m.

Wow, I never printed that big;my biggest now is DIN-A2+

 

[tezzasmall]

Peter,

I've only seen photo 'albums' for up to 7 x 5 inch prints and A4 sleeved folders for keeping 10 x 8's in and then the papers original boxes for up to about 12 x 16 or 16 x 20 but above that...?

So how do you keep your final prints? Do you have a bespoke album or something?

And I bet it's fun when people come around and you are asked to show them some of your 'snaps'!

Terry S

 

[Peter de Groot]

I roll um up. I have an old box where the paper came in. Storagewise this size is a pain to keep. Ah well

 

[jvo]

size matters!!!

thanks.

 

[CMoore]

Holy Cow.!

My experience is with 35mm and 8x10 paper.
How do you focus the enlarger for something that big...is it easier.?
With 35mm i use a grain focuser, but maybe with a print That Big it is easy to see when the negative is in focus, with the naked eye.?
Thank You

 

[Michael Wesik]

Awesome stuff! Love seeing people pushing the limits of the medium. I've processed all my big prints - 55x75" image size - using a one-tray methodology so that I can tone my prints, as well - Selenium, Gold, Sepia, or a combo of the three. It's such a personal process... Happy printing!!

 

[Peter de Groot]

Holy Cow.!

My experience is with 35mm and 8x10 paper.
How do you focus the enlarger for something that big...is it easier.?
With 35mm i use a grain focuser, but maybe with a print That Big it is easy to see when the negative is in focus, with the naked eye.?
Thank You

It is more difficult. I have to walk to the enlarger and back. So you can;t see how much you have to turn to get it in focus. I have to find a good way for it to do on my own. With the naked eye is difficult because the image is not clear. But i want to get a focussing negative with clear lines so that should be easier.

 

[Michael Wesik]

When I was working on an enlarger that required me to go back and forth to focus, I used a pencil to mark the dial throughout the focusing sequence. It was really helpful for establishing reference or end points to move closer and closer to an accurate focus. I never found a need for a focussing negative beyond making sure that the lens and baseboard/wall were in proper alignment with the enlarger.

 

[Peter de Groot]

When I was working on an enlarger that required me to go back and forth to focus, I used a pencil to mark the dial throughout the focusing sequence. It was really helpful for establishing reference or end points to move closer and closer to an accurate focus. I never found a need for a focussing negative beyond making sure that the lens and baseboard/wall were in proper alignment with the enlarger.

Very clever! I will try it next time. Thanks!

 

[bunip]

Hi peter,
what enlarger do you have? I can show you my diy focusing device for my Durst 138 if it could fit your enlarger.

 

[Peter de Groot]

Hi peter,
what enlarger do you have? I can show you my diy focusing device for my Durst 138 if it could fit your enlarger.

I would love to see it. I have a Durst L184 that I am using.

 

[rolfehorn]

+1 for the diy Focus , I’d like to see it too. I have a 184 and will be making 50”x — prints soon.

 

[bunip]

Nothing technological, just one rope to telecontrol the focusing knob. will add a picture or two. In my setup is very effective: I focus by eye, then move to the paper with a focusfinder and twisting the focus knob with the rope get micro focus adjustments

 

[bunip]

 

[bunip]

I took the lid from a jar the same of the focusing knob diameter, screwed it to an aluminum rod and attached a rope to it. When you need fine focus tuning you apply the rod+lid to the focus knob and turn it by pulling each rod’s side b the rope making twist the focus knob. In this case you can focus with more precision even with the vertical projection (not as far as in lateral but often just a little too far for my arm). In lateral projection you have to add a second rod and one rope each side so you have one focusing rod attached to focus knob, one rope each rod’s side and a second rod in your hand (imagine to drive your kite in the sky) Focusing is done first by hand and eye turning the focus knob the usual way just to get near the right focus, then you apply the rod to the focus knob and go to the paper on the wall with the focusfinder in one hand. in the other hand you have the rod connected to the ropes connected to the focus rod that you’ll twist until focus is ok.