Praktica Appreciation Thread

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Sewin

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You're not the only one.
Me too! :sad:

My problem now is I can't quite read the settings on the camera any more and its a hassle putting on reading specs then taking them off all the time.

Suppose I could just set to Auto :pouty:
 

cl3mens

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Praktica will always have a special place in my heart.

I was given a MTL50 with a Pentacon MC 50/1.8 and a Soligor 35-70/3.5-4.5 Zoom in January 2012. That's what got me back into shooting film, and into more "serious" photography. Used this kit for a while, adding a few lenses (Formula5 28/2.8, Mirage 135/2.8, Formula5 200/3.5 (fantastic lens), Soligor 400/6.3). Turns out my dads first SLR was a LTL, bought new in the early 70's when he was 16 years old. He still has it, and I got to borrow it.

I also got to borrow a Canon AE-1 Program from him which made me choose Canon FD cameras over Nikon when it was time to replace the Praktica. Main reason was the kind of dim finder and few lens choices around 85 mm and 24 or wider. But looking back at the pictures from the MTL I realize that many are pretty good and the equipment doesn't matter.

I sold some of the M42 lenses I bought but I still have the kit I got back in 2012. Still use it sometimes, the 50/1.8 is a great lens and the ruggedness of the MTL50 is nice.
 

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Interesting observation! I guess though in most B-mode exposure that would not matter.

You need to try an EXAKTA IIa at anything slower than 1/5 you need to set the lens to manual diaphragm or use a locked wire release.
 
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Brett Rogers

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You need to try an EXAKTA IIa at anything slower than 1/5 you need to set the lens to manual diaphragm or use a locked wire release.
Semi-automatic lenses with auto stop down were available for the Varex IIa. The procedure needed for correct exposure is going to depend entirely on which lens is fitted to the body. With a T setting and the appropriate lens fitted, you could expose the gate for the rest of your life without fitting a cable should you desire...
 

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My humble Praktica system proves to be extremely capable, in particular the Vario Sonnar, the Flektogon and the Prakticar 50mm f1.4:

2s16f0n.jpg


1qpu86.jpg


dfyo82.jpg


2s8fus3.jpg


zlepgk.jpg


k9bzaw.jpg
 

baachitraka

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Wow!!! The last photo is my favorite.
 

cuthbert

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Wow!!! The last photo is my favorite.

Thanks, unfortunately it was raining so the pics came out so so, here there are others taken with a better weather...this is the Vario-Sonnar in action:

ay1vyd.jpg


2wqsf0l.jpg


vdjzw9.jpg

It does show some swirly bokeh, I like it!

w2lj85.jpg


1zqztzt.jpg


fof7uv.jpg


This is the Flektogon 20mm f2.8, the Pride of Jena:

25a0tiw.jpg


11sjfd4.jpg


2955nqc.jpg


The 50 mm f1.4 is also a wonderful lens:

110dj7b.jpg


211umc2.jpg


bf5e9k.jpg
 
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baachitraka

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I feel the depth in those rainy day pictures. A polariser would have minimize the glare on the last photo of the locomotive.

Nevertheless, all the photos are good. Do you home process the color?
 

Xmas

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Semi-automatic lenses with auto stop down were available for the Varex IIa. The procedure needed for correct exposure is going to depend entirely on which lens is fitted to the body. With a T setting and the appropriate lens fitted, you could expose the gate for the rest of your life without fitting a cable should you desire...

I beg to differ
Fully automatic lenses were kit for late IIa's.
Both my (5cm) Tessar and panacolor need nothing more than push of the release for 1/5 or faster.
The mirror is not instant return the apertures are.

But it is not obvious how to do the slower speeds.
The release collar is rotated with the release depressed to turn the lens to full manual mode.
On my cameras with the shutter armed you need to release the lens lock and turn the lens so the lens release clears the cameras release and set the lens to manual then turn back to latch the lock.

A locking remote release is more convenient.
 

Brett Rogers

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I beg to differ
Fully automatic lenses were kit for late IIa's.
Both my (5cm) Tessar and panacolor need nothing more than push of the release for 1/5 or faster.
The mirror is not instant return the apertures are.

But it is not obvious how to do the slower speeds.
The release collar is rotated with the release depressed to turn the lens to full manual mode.
On my cameras with the shutter armed you need to release the lens lock and turn the lens so the lens release clears the cameras release and set the lens to manual then turn back to latch the lock.

A locking remote release is more convenient.

In other words, as I said, it is going to "...depend entirely on which lens is fitted to the body."

I am not sure which part of that did you not understand.
 
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Interesting to see this being resurrected. I'm dipping my toes in the 35mm water with my father's old Praktica FX3. The CZ lens it came with has seen better days, but I've got a Helios 44-2 that is seeing most of the action.
 

baachitraka

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Helios 44-2: I feel it is sharper than my EF 50mm f/1.4 at corresponding apertures.
 

cuthbert

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I feel the depth in those rainy day pictures. A polariser would have minimize the glare on the last photo of the locomotive.

Nevertheless, all the photos are good. Do you home process the color?

Using a polariser in these conditions would have been counterproductive because the available light was scarce and with a pl filter I would have dramatically reduced the DOF, especially with the Vario-Sonnar...what I dislike most is that due to the heavy overcast you can't really see the steam...and these locomotives were seriously steaming! So the pics got ruined...B&W worked better, these are some shots with my LX:

1fu1w7.jpg


37zpy.jpg


24qsf9e.jpg


2cpxbx1.jpg


But I prefer to shoot in colour because I found the DDR class the best for this application, I don't even use a warming filter with my other lenses.

At the moment I am working in the UK so I can't process anything, not even B&W, what you see are cheap Boots (that is a farmacy) developments and scans...BTW they always cut my frames.
 
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Sewin

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Hi Cuthbert,

Nice images.

What are Boots charging these days and what is the turn around please.

Thanks
 

cuthbert

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I pay £8.49 for a 36 exposure film (usually I shoot from 37 to 39 frames, for instance with the MTL50 I usually shoot 39), development, scan on cd and 7x5 prints.

Two days service, 1 hour 1 pound more if memory serves me correctly, this weekend I went to Stonehenge and later to a Ford gathering and I shot 6 rolls, so I spent a lot of money at Boots and the clerks hate me because I'm always complaining they cut part of my frames. :sad:
 
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Sewin

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Thanks Cuthbert,

That brings back an old memory.

I once annoyed a Boots clerk too, but opposite to your annoyance!

Back in the early 80's I only processed B&W, leaving colour to the labs. I used Max Speilman and the results were good.

However sometimes I needed a specific neg blown up to 10x8 so off to Boots I would go.

Once I clearly showed the assistant the neg on the strip of film which I needed quickly, returned to pick up 10x8, wrong neg blown up.

So the next time I went I cut the neg out of the film so there would be no error ( I knew I shouldn't have really done this). This did not go down well,as I expected, moaning they couldn't fit in the enlarger carrier etc.

Anyway they managed and the result was excellent, probably due to the fact they had to take more care setting up .
 

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Quoting from page 6 :

" The BCX was similar to the BX20 but had a silver top plate which I believe was plastic. "

There were actually 2 different BCX and neither of these was similar to the BX20 :

- the chromed BCX was a rebadged B200, for export to the UK.

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A rare "hybrid" sample, still fitted with waffled leather from the B200.

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- the black BCX was a rebadged BC1, also for the UK.

attachment.php
 

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GRHazelton

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These pix show a handsome camera! Tell me, is the little square above the name a judas window to view the f stop in the viewfinder?

I used for years a LTL, which I still have, and its shutter sounds just fine. I need to have cleaned the excellent Meyer Oreston 50mm f1.8, focusing to 12 inches or so, the auto diaphragm is sticky. Even though I'm a Pentax fan I think this is perhaps a better starter camera than the K 1000. Gets closer to the basics.
 

cuthbert

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These pix show a handsome camera! Tell me, is the little square above the name a judas window to view the f stop in the viewfinder?

Yes it is, the Praktica B viewfinder gives full information: aperture, shutter speed and lightmeter...at least for the manual and m + AE shutter priority models
 

darthj

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More "handsome" cameras ...

The B200, first B-type (1979).

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The BC1, its successor (1984).

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And another hybrid, a B200 labeled as BC1. According to the serial number constructed 2 years before the BC1 even existed.

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Sewin

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Very underated those two camaeras.

I've a B200 and BC1 with an assortment of lenses etc.

Solid chunky cameras and very good to build a dedicated kit around.
 

Xmas

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AP did a review of all the 5cm lenses then on sale about '91 and the kit Practica came out best...

Eat heart out Nikon and Leica luvvies.
 
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