Post your recent Holga 120N shots here~!
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- Thread starter Jeremy Mudd
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Other than lining up numbers in red windows, what is there to read on the backing?
OP
OP
I haven't really noticed any issues with reading thru the red window. Might just be me though.
Jeremy
Jeremy
MattKing
Moderator
There are several sets of numbers, along with several sets of warning indicators that indicate when the next number is coming up - quite important when the ambient light is high, the window is dark, the numbers are relatively faint and your eyes aren't the same as when you were 20!
I had a folder from the 1930's and the windows line up for 6x6, but not for 645. The 645 position standard location had changes. Printing in both locations should not be a problem. The last time I checked it was still not rocket science.
MattKing
Moderator
Printing isn't all that easy, but is certainly accomplishable.
Printing on the very specialized papers used for backing paper, with modern and available inks? There are only a few paper manufacturers and printers who have the equipment and abilities to do that.
And doing that printing and not have it react with modern film emulsions - that has turned out to be very challenging, and nearly ended production of all Kodak 120 films.
Part of their solution was to greatly reduce the ink load, which made the numbers much harder to see.
Ilford went the same route several years earlier, and they didn't have the problem of needing it to work with colour films.
Printing on the very specialized papers used for backing paper, with modern and available inks? There are only a few paper manufacturers and printers who have the equipment and abilities to do that.
And doing that printing and not have it react with modern film emulsions - that has turned out to be very challenging, and nearly ended production of all Kodak 120 films.
Part of their solution was to greatly reduce the ink load, which made the numbers much harder to see.
Ilford went the same route several years earlier, and they didn't have the problem of needing it to work with colour films.
I've actually only been using Kodak films. Haven't tried any Ilford, or any other brand 120 film in either Holga or Diana.
Best,
-Tim
I carry a small folding loupe, I find it is useful for seeing the frame numbers in the red window. I also use it with my Zero 2000 pinhole camera.
MattKing
Moderator
I use a small LED flashlight for the same purpose.
OP
OP
Here's another image to keep the thread rolling along.
Holga 120N on Ilford FP4+. 240 second exposure. Semi-Stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 @20C for 60 minutes.
Jeremy
Holga 120N on Ilford FP4+. 240 second exposure. Semi-Stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 @20C for 60 minutes.
Jeremy
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- epp
- Deleted
- Reason: Moved to B&W FIlm forum
220116-03
220109-07.1_1I've been wanting a Holga 120 pan for quite a few years now and for xmas i went to buy one. Seems those can't be found anymore along with some others that piqued my interest (the pinhole pano and 120GN), so i bought a 120N instead.
1st roll was Foma 200 as I don't want to use this film in any other of my MF cameras. I was pretty slapdash with the development as I wasn't expecting much. Used Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand for 1hr.
A dull, winter, british day meant most were underexposed by a few stops but it let me find any potential issues with the camera. No issues apart from a minor internal reflection near the top + bottom.
Nothing interesting. Just put things in the center of the frame and hoped for the best. Tried a couple multi-exposures just so I could have some density in the negs.
1st roll was Foma 200 as I don't want to use this film in any other of my MF cameras. I was pretty slapdash with the development as I wasn't expecting much. Used Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand for 1hr.
A dull, winter, british day meant most were underexposed by a few stops but it let me find any potential issues with the camera. No issues apart from a minor internal reflection near the top + bottom.
Nothing interesting. Just put things in the center of the frame and hoped for the best. Tried a couple multi-exposures just so I could have some density in the negs.
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The 120 PAN is currently on backorder with Freestyle in the U.S. until April 1: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/200120-Holga-120-Pan-Panoramic-Camera
Holga 120N. FP4 ID11. Exposure 3mins on B using a 6 stop ND. Split sepia/selenium Ilford Classic.
Quite some nice photos you got out of your first film. As epp said, the pan is made again, but there are delivery problems. However, they show up on Ebay from time to time for reasonable prices. That's where I got mine a few weeks ago. I made a page for it https://www.plastikcam.com/holga_120_pan.htm. I also had the WPC https://www.plastikcam.com/holga_wpc.htm, but that didn't impress me. So I had a Holgamods Pan made out of it https://www.oddcameras.com/holgamods_612_pan.htm. That could be nice, but there is still some work to finish it.
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Cheers. I hadn't given it much of a chance with the film + dev I chose. I think I may end up using HP5+ solely for this camera with the cable shutter mod.
Ah, i had read the holgas had stopped production so was a bit disheartened and bought the 120N thinking that may be all i'll be ever able to buy new. TBH, I only wanted the WPC so I could modify it by adding a lens to it like in your link. Hopefully they start turning up again.
Today I wanted to see how bad the chromatic aberrations are and what the lens looked like stopped down to f11.
I used Lomo CN 800. Using f11 was a mistake and only got away with it once or twice. I think i'll stick to BnW with the holga.
What I did notice that the viewfinder has quite the crop on it. The images of the "Bristol" and the sphere mostly filled the viewfinder. Also, the film doesn't lie that flat judging by the frame borders.
One other thing that surprised me was that the effort to fire the shutter doesn't actually induce any noticeable camera shake. Using it 1-handed (i was walking my dog) I noticed the camera moved quite a bit whilst firing the shutter. Maybe the lens covered up the shake.
I used Lomo CN 800. Using f11 was a mistake and only got away with it once or twice. I think i'll stick to BnW with the holga.
What I did notice that the viewfinder has quite the crop on it. The images of the "Bristol" and the sphere mostly filled the viewfinder. Also, the film doesn't lie that flat judging by the frame borders.
One other thing that surprised me was that the effort to fire the shutter doesn't actually induce any noticeable camera shake. Using it 1-handed (i was walking my dog) I noticed the camera moved quite a bit whilst firing the shutter. Maybe the lens covered up the shake.
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"The Girl in the Black Dress" Holga 120N // Kodak Tri-X 400 // 20 sec exposure
The Story:
While on our travels last Nov, the wife and I were sitting on the beach watching the sun set. Then this young girl came walking by wearing a silky black dress. I jumped up and asked her if she would pose for me. She agreed and stood very still for a 20 - 30 secs exposure. In order to judge the distance of this shot, I used broken plastic toy shovel placed beside her left foot. This is the end result
The Story:
While on our travels last Nov, the wife and I were sitting on the beach watching the sun set. Then this young girl came walking by wearing a silky black dress. I jumped up and asked her if she would pose for me. She agreed and stood very still for a 20 - 30 secs exposure. In order to judge the distance of this shot, I used broken plastic toy shovel placed beside her left foot. This is the end result
OP
OP
OP
OP
Were you wearing glasses? I've found that if I take off my glasses or prescription sunglasses and stick my eye as close to the finder as possible I tend to get a shot closer to what I see. Wearing glasses or sunglasses gave me the same experience you had. Took me a few rolls to figure that one out.
For the camera shake, my guess is the shutter fires when you press the button and then when the button bottoms out after the image was taken, that's when the camera moves the most.
Jeremy
Ah, that would explain it. It's the same with my zorki. I can't see much without my glasses (i rarely wear contacts these days) so i'll try to remember the reason.
Cameras with a decent eye relief for spectacle wearers are not that common... 
I read (going back to 2020) that some of them had focusing issues. I hope that what is due in, will be new stock and that there are no issues with them. It previously had been on backorder until today (January 28), then I noticed the date was recently changed to April 1.
Cameras with a decent eye relief for spectacle wearers are not that common...
Nikon F3HP. Nikonos V. Fuji Work Record. Leica MP .58. Zeiss Ikon ZM.
The first two are very easy to get. Of course completely off topic to this lo-fi thread, but if you need one.. Oh, and any TLR camera ever made.
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