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Portraits with TLR

Puddle

Puddle

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I've shot already portraits (not head/shoulder shots) with the Rolleiflex without the Rolleinar. Only some issues with proper focussing...

It would help if you'd further discuss your technique: how are you currently focussing (and on what part of the body), are you hand holding or using tripod, is the subject (in the problematic pictures) standing or seated, what shutter speed are you using? What aperture are you using? What type of portrait are you taking and what is the distance between you and the subject? As mentioned much earlier, an example would really be helpful. Also, have you experienced this focus issue with any other type of photography?

There may or may not be "an easy fix" especially since you've already told us, "I have a Rick Oleson spilt [sic] screen ground glass in my Rolleiflex.".
 
The controversy is about TLR with normal 80mm (or so) lens and, perhaps, the definiiton of "ideal"...

You can easily buy a 80mm lens for your C33 and you'll be good to go.
And its not as pricey as buying overpriced M lenses with 80mm for a Leica.

I have and use the 80mm 2.8 for portraits and everything else honestly. The giant slow telephoto lens isn't very useful.
 
It would help if you'd further discuss your technique: how are you currently focussing (and on what part of the body), are you hand holding or using tripod, is the subject (in the problematic pictures) standing or seated, what shutter speed are you using? What aperture are you using? What type of portrait are you taking and what is the distance between you and the subject? As mentioned much earlier, an example would really be helpful. Also, have you experienced this focus issue with any other type of photography?

There may or may not be "an easy fix" especially since you've already told us, "I have a Rick Oleson spilt [sic] screen ground glass in my Rolleiflex.".

Good point... I always focus on the eyes, brows, and sometimes on the nose.
Always standing up, hand-held and looking from the top, with help of the little pop up helper.
I use different speeds. Never lower than 60. Mostly wife open, maybe that's the problem sometimes.
In distancing I stand between 1 and 2 meters.
Sometimes I have the feeling that I'm focussing too hard and look into the glass for too long. That might be the problem sometimes I'm afraid....
 
Thanks for that additional information. Perhaps the next step for you should be to use a tripod and seated subject, especially if you like that wide-open look. That way you can better rule out any equipment issues. Focus on the eyes, to the best of your ability, as the focus on the nose can lead to "bad focus"-like results when DoD is really thin. The magnifier is almost a necessity so good that you are using it. I know what you mean about looking too long to focus as both that and taking too long between focus and shutter release can lead to unpredictability with hand-held photos. A monoped might also be a good idea. With the Rollei, also seriously consider a Rolleifix quick release attachment when using either a tripod or monopod. It seems that your equipment might be just fine and the technique could use some refinement. That, actually, is good news as it's an "easy fix" that is also fun and educational.
 
Here's a question for Reza: If a TLR is less than ideal for portraits.... how about 4x5, 5x7, 8x10? They must be impossible!
download-1.jpg
 
Good point... I always focus on the eyes, brows, and sometimes on the nose.

One trick - focus first on the ears/top of the head, then re-focus on the tip of the nose, then adjust to midway between the two focus settings.
Assuming that you are having trouble seeing catchlights in the eyes in the first place.
It sounds elaborate, but it quickly becomes reflexive.
The giant slow telephoto lens isn't very useful.

The 135mm lens is sweet! See my post #19 for an illustrative image :smile:
 
Here's a question for Reza: If a TLR is less than ideal for portraits.... how about 4x5, 5x7, 8x10? They must be impossible!

I'm not Reza and I hope he doesn't mind me replying to a PM...

Portraiture with a large format camera is fantastic. Maybe even better than that, if there is a more emphatic word. But in general, what's important is not the size of the film or camera, but the length of the lens.
 
One trick - focus first on the ears/top of the head, then re-focus on the tip of the nose, then adjust to midway between the two focus settings.
Assuming that you are having trouble seeing catchlights in the eyes in the first place.
It sounds elaborate, but it quickly becomes reflexive.


The 135mm lens is sweet! See my post #19 for an illustrative image :smile:

The 135 is amazing but nailing focus and having the right amount of light outside a studio environment is difficult to say the least.
 
I'm not Reza and I hope he doesn't mind me replying to a PM...

Portraiture with a large format camera is fantastic. Maybe even better than that, if there is a more emphatic word. But in general, what's important is not the size of the film or camera, but the length of the lens.

Brian....it was a rhetorical question.....
 
The 135 is amazing but nailing focus and having the right amount of light outside a studio environment is difficult to say the least.

It never was for me - in a wedding photography environment.
Perhaps the viewing system in my C330 is/was brighter than what you are working with.
 
Catchlight in the eyes , focus on nose, focus on eye brows, focus on first top of the head and then ears. All this is rubish. To take a meaningful portrait you must have a feeling and empathy for your subject. Look at the images of Julia Margret Cameron. It isn't about technical control but relating with the subject.
 
The 135mm lens for the Mamiya C series cameras gives me results that are similar to the results I get from using an 85mm lens with my 135 cameras.
Both give me results I like, in circumstances that are appropriate for their use.
I have downsized my Mamiya C330 lens set to just two - the 65mm lens and the 135mm lens. The result is a very capable kit that fits well in a small bag, and which serves my preferences well.
If I need other lenses and other fields of view at certain working distances, I have other options. Just as I have good other options for fixed lens 6x6 cameras.
 
One advantage of TLRs is most if not all, are leaf shutters, which allows a lot of control over lighting and shutterspeed, which all can be used to tailor your pending image.
 
The short answer.

My counter argument is based on the premise that millions of good portraits are being taken everyday by 'lacking photographers'.
If the portraits are good, maybe the photographers aren't lacking. Hoc ex se intellegitur.
 
All this is rubish.

Julia Margaret Cameron was working with extremely long exposures, by current standards. And she did actually need to focus properly or those photos would've been not just blurry but fuzzy,

1762387043954.png


No focus problem there at all.
 
If the portraits are good, maybe the photographers aren't lacking. Hoc ex se intellegitur.

Or perhaps, it's the technology that's become so exceptional that anyone with a camera is capable of taking a good portrait.
 
Or perhaps, it's the technology that's become so exceptional that anyone with a camera is capable of taking a good portrait.

A good portrait is not about the technology, as illustrated in the earlier Julia Margaret Cameron image. Among many things, it is about the photographer’s eye, the rapport between the photographer and sitter, the light and general mood of the situation.
 
It never was for me - in a wedding photography environment.
Perhaps the viewing system in my C330 is/was brighter than what you are working with.

Working with flash or available light? f/4 with available light and trying to keep the shutter speed up is not an easy feat.

Marketing.

I'm way to young to have been marketed at by Mamiya.
 
A TLR brings an advantage to a photography session that other cameras do not offer. The form factor is very retro and attention getting for the modern portrait sitter.
If they ever say "nice camera but why the two lenses?" merely explain that the top lens is for framing and focussing and it's the bottom lens that steals your soul.

Excellent 😃
 
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