Pop emulsion making

[Peter Schrager]

correction please!!
the second sodium acetate should be sodium citrate 6 grams
you can divide by 5 for all the ingredients...no reason to make overly large amounts of emulsion
make what you can use!!!

 

[NedL]

.... Today, my heart belongs to handmade paper negatives.

Yay!

 

[Peter Schrager]

This is a very nice formula that I'm currently using:SIMPLE AND FEWER INGREDIENTS
Lead Nitrate Formula
A. Gelatin 35.83g
DH20 356ml
B. Potassium Citrate 4.5g
DH2o 25ml
C. Silver 8.33g
lead nitrate .83G
DH2O 28.33ML
D. citric acid 3.66g
nacl .83g
DH20 28.33ml
ALL ADDITIONS AND GELATIN KEPT AT 122 DEGREES F.
Finals:
Add 20ml alcohol after 10 minutes
PhotoFlo 20 drops
Glyoxol 4% 20ml
Thymol 10ml
I also add 3 drops Polyethylene Glycol 3 drops
Digest at least 1 hour at 122 degrees F
Coat!

 

[Peter Schrager]

You can also develop a partially printed POP in a developer and NO toning necessary
Reasons given is that the price of gold has shot up through the roof!
Sepiatone Developer
H2O 10oz
citric acid. 1.3g
pyro .648g
metol .648g
potassium bromide 1% 2-3ml

 

[ezphotolessons]

These are some of the variables you can instill while creating your own emuldion. Rod coating will always be sharper than brush but one can use these variables to your advantage.
Gloss depends on paper; watercolor vs. Baryta
I use fixed out older papers also...i'll post examples of that later
Any other questions please inquire!

Can you wetcoat fixed out papers like you can with other types of print making papers?

 

[Peter Schrager]

Can you wetcoat fixed out papers like you can with other types of print making papers?

put sheets in cold water
pour hot water over glass substrate
then dry with paper towel/attach mylar
pour emulsion on mylar/spread out
let set
once emulsion sets sprinkle with cold water 68 degrees or less
squeege water out between paper and emulsion
hang up to dry
the mylar will fall away as it dries
it gives a very high gloss print
personally I just dry coat and the results are fine...not worth the extra effort for me

 

[koraks]

once emulsion sets sprinkle with cold water 68 degrees or less
squeege water out between paper and emulsion

I think one crucial step is missing here - you place the mylar with the gelatin emulsion on top of the paper, right? So with the emulsion side touching the paper. Then squeegee to mate both gelatin surfaces, correct?

 

[Peter Schrager]

I think one crucial step is missing here - you place the mylar with the gelatin emulsion on top of the paper, right? So with the emulsion side touching the paper. Then squeegee to mate both gelatin surfaces, correct?

yes that should work!

 

[ezphotolessons]

put sheets in cold water
pour hot water over glass substrate
then dry with paper towel/attach mylar
pour emulsion on mylar/spread out
let set
once emulsion sets sprinkle with cold water 68 degrees or less
squeege water out between paper and emulsion
hang up to dry
the mylar will fall away as it dries
it gives a very high gloss print
personally I just dry coat and the results are fine...not worth the extra effort for me

I have never heard of this method,I just wet the substrate put on glass or mylar wet and rod on, as the light farm details. Your method ( or my misunderstanding of it) sounds like you are coating the mylar and transferring the emulsion to your paper? That's wild, I have never heard of that. Thanks I will try it.

 

[koraks]

It's a different kind of application, but I've done something sort of similar with carbon transfer. Develop a hardened image matrix onto a plastic sheet, then coat a wet gel solution onto a receiver paper, let set, then press both sheets together (gel to gel) and let dry through the base of the paper. Takes a hell of a long time because there's a lot of water that needs to find its way through the paper, but it does work. I expect for a silver gel emulsion the idea is pretty much the same and I don't doubt it will work just fine. The fact that you end up with essentially a ferrotyped surface is kind of nice, although it'll probably air-dry after processing to a more natural sheen.

 

[Peter Schrager]

It's a different kind of application, but I've done something sort of similar with carbon transfer. Develop a hardened image matrix onto a plastic sheet, then coat a wet gel solution onto a receiver paper, let set, then press both sheets together (gel to gel) and let dry through the base of the paper. Takes a hell of a long time because there's a lot of water that needs to find its way through the paper, but it does work. I expect for a silver gel emulsion the idea is pretty much the same and I don't doubt it will work just fine. The fact that you end up with essentially a ferrotyped surface is kind of nice, although it'll probably air-dry after processing to a more natural sheen.

no actually the surface is VERY high gloss!

 

[koraks]

After processing as well? That's interesting, I wouldnt have expected that.