Phoenix II pictures

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koraks

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This graph is absent from the official Phoenix II datasheet, but the formatting is consistent with Harman / Ilford's style. Unless I'm very wrong, this indicates that Phoenix II has a serious magenta/green crossover problem.
Not just that; red and blue also part ways. Of course, we don't know for sure if this chart is official. If it is, it doesn't really surprise me since this is still a halfway-house product. The partial masking situation @Lachlan Young has commented on extensively probably explains this pretty well.
 

Samu

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Okay, I have shot, and made my first RA4 prints out of Phoenix II. First impression is that the film is still quite contrasty, although noy to the level Phoenix I was. It needed almost maximum yellow filtration of my enlarger, and quite a lot of magenta, It seems to have an issue with magenta dyr, as you can see from the color chatt. The picture above is the original color chary, and below is an RA4 priny og the same chart, shot on Phoenix II, and printed in my darkroom to Fuji DP II paper. Second picture is the historical presidential palace in Kaunas, above on Potta 160, and below Phoenix II. Third file is St. Gertrude's church in Kaunas, on the left on portra 160, and on the right on Phoenix II..
 

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blee1996

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And my color checker using my usual process: Kodak C41 kit home processing, Epson V700 scanned as slide, Negative Labs Pro conversion natural. The red is more like orange. Blue and green are slightly different from Phoenix I as well. Contrast is still quite high, grain is a bit smaller.

MamiyaC330S_105DS_PhoenixII_001 Large.jpeg
 

koraks

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First impression is that the film is still quite contrasty, although noy to the level Phoenix I was.

Oh, not even close! This is far more muted than I had imagined it to be. In a way, it's a pity - the interesting thing about the first version was its through-the-roof contrast which could be used to bring out dramatic textures from very muted scenes. It looks like PII is more like a regular C41 film, just with...well, very muted and idiosyncratic colors. Your color checker shows that it really struggles with primaries. Lots of work ahead for the guys in Mobberley.
 

Lachlan Young

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the base is still a bit purple.

Going off the purported curve shapes, and the colours of masking couplers (and those used for colour correction) as shown in the structural diagram in Shanebrook's 'Making Kodak Film' 2nd Ed., p.22-23, that's what it should be.

It also gives an idea of what other couplers etc still need to be added and where they'll start to shove curves into their correct relationships and gradients (which will sort out contrast and colour reproduction). What may look weird now is a lot more logical than it seems.
 

Spektrum

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Sorry, but I think you have an error in the description on Flickr.

Technical info:

- Camera: Mamiya C330S

- Lens: Sekor 135mm f/3.5 DS (Heliar type)

- Film: Fujicolor Harman Phoenix II (rated at ISO 100)
 

blee1996

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Sorry, but I think you have an error in the description on Flickr.

Technical info:

- Camera: Mamiya C330S

- Lens: Sekor 135mm f/3.5 DS (Heliar type)

- Film: Fujicolor Harman Phoenix II (rated at ISO 100)
Thanks for spotting this, must've been some copy/paste error. Now they are all corrected.
 

foc

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Shhh...that's a secret trick for getting better reds from this film.

That's how rumors start.............. 🤣..............
Next we'll see on the internet, that Fuji & Harman are jointly producing colour negative film!!!
 

koraks

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Next we'll see on the internet, that Fuji & Harman are jointly producing colour negative film!!!
They have been doing this for years. Inside a massive freezer that also stores massive amounts of their E6 film. And the street address of that freezer very coincidentally is in Rochester, NY....
 

Graham06

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on the left on portra 160, and on the right on Phoenix II..
You know, I prefer the Phoenix II to the Portra 160 in all the photos you posted. With analog photography, it's a lot about whether you like what you get, and I like a large fraction of the Phoenix II photos I've seen.
 

loccdor

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An interesting film. Might try it. If reds are needed, there's always Ektar.

I guess I'll go ahead and freeze my remaining Phoenix I...
 

NiallerM

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FWIW I washed Phoenix II 4 minutes at 39C before stabilizer and watched for visible color in the early wash water but did not see much, and certainly none in the stabilizer. The purple film base color appeared the same at the end of washing. Just an unscientific observation. https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjCmHZu

I had pretty mucky water (dark yellow) after the pre-soak. I actually wondered whether I had damaged the emulsion.
 

NiallerM

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The first picture was taken on Phoenix II?!

Yup. I have to clarify. I got roll last week and before I had it loaded into a decent camera my son had nabbed it for a compact point n' shoot. It didn't get the benefit of my better glass, but the camera isn't a complete clunker either.

Also I used the CS-41 chemicals and had to give the roll a second blix bath (first blix was too weak), so the whole process was not as I would wish.

Additionally, the above photo obviously involved a pretty hard flash. The other photos were all a bit awry. Forgive the quick and dirty scans:

1754066685970.jpeg


1754066769449.jpeg


1754066849881.jpeg

Straight from the drier to the scanner. No retouches applied.
 
OP
OP

Meinrad

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i think the yellow washing water after developer is nothing to be worried about, same for Phoenix I. (I do not prewash). Phoenix II can do reds, but it seems its not linear to amount of light …
 

loccdor

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@Meinrad Your first shot is really nice. When there is no red in the scene, the film is reminding me of old 800 speed Fuji color negative, with extra contrast.
 

BHuij

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It's like the antithesis film of Ektar :D

I just finished shooting my first roll of Phoenix II, so I should be able to soup and scan it in the next week or so. Very curious to see what comes out, especially given I'll be using ECN-2.
 
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