Which one Super 35, Super? . werent there different models with changing backs(70/220-Super) and fixed back Super 70 70mm only?Before I'll buy a Noblex, I'll rather buy a Seitz Roundshot Super, my dream camera in the 90s.
To achieve the figures on the DOF scale the COC has to be chosen as 0.06mm
The true focal setting at "Infinty." then would be 30m and at "N" 3m .
I have the previous model, the 150U. There are no detents for the three focus modes on the 150U, so I assumed it would work with intermediates. But I actually never tried it. As the detents were added as a feature to the 150UX, maybe that is not the case.
Are you sure that the focus indications of the camera apply to DIN A4 enlargement size? This would imply an enlargement factor of only 2.5x, which seems like not enough. Maybe it is worth to try out with a few frames, if you can get the focus you want in "m" with the lens stopped down (if there is enough light).
That place is seriously littered. That makes great pictures, but is really sad.
My figures were based on doing the mathematic calculations as long as I got result as that DOF scale on the camera shows. If you in exposing with that lens get results that show different it likely means the lens ist actually not focussed at 30m at the "infinity" mark, but at true infinity or even beyond, and also the min focus distance is further off than the 3m I caculated.Ok, so what you are saying is that the lens doesn't actually focus at infinity but 30m ? I'm not sure if that is true in practice. When I bracket, at infinity everything very distance is razor sharp, while M is very sharp at distances from 10-30 meters. I couldn't get anything sharp at the N setting - even the ground with the camera low down.
N means Nah in german which is closeup. there is a N-special camera. see on Noblex canada-page. and there are offical DOF-tables.Ok, so what you are saying is that the lens doesn't actually focus at infinity but 30m ? I'm not sure if that is true in practice. When I bracket, at infinity everything very distance is razor sharp, while M is very sharp at distances from 10-30 meters. I couldn't get anything sharp at the N setting - even the ground with the camera low down.
DOF-range on Noblex-cameras thats new to me. Which ones have? I added DOF-table to my Widelux 1500-back. i have added inbetween aperture-markers. e.g. 8 I I 11 II 16 on white tape. maybe silvertape will work also. will not alter.My figures were based on doing the mathematic calculations as long as I got result as that DOF scale on the camera shows. If you in exposing with that lens get results that show different it likely means the lens ist actually not focussed at 30m at the "infinity" mark, but at true infinity or even beyond, and also the min focus distance is further off than the 3m I caculated.
Thanks for clearing that up. I think one of the previous 150 versions had a fixed focus lens that could not be adjusted - maybe that version was Focused to 30m.My figures were based on doing the mathematic calculations as long as I got result as that DOF scale on the camera shows. If you in exposing with that lens get results that show different it likely means the lens ist actually not focussed at 30m at the "infinity" mark, but at true infinity or even beyond, and also the min focus distance is further off than the 3m I caculated.
That's an interesting theory - that the slits - both front and back contribute to increasing the depth of field. I haven't had much problem with flare since I usually shoot with cloudy skies but I would be interested in making one of those sunshades. I have plenty of filters for the camera I never use - do you have a picture of what it looks like ?N means Nah in german which is closeup. there is a N-special camera. see on Noblex canada-page. and there are offical DOF-tables.
I tested Widelux 1500 regarding DOF. its about how you define what is sharp enough to define DOF and so COC. on -W1500 i calculated 1/25 and yes i also had the first Noblex 150(N0 19)with closeup lens. but didnt check in details. only real differences are: a) better coating for Noblex b) below 5m (for optical reasons) W1500-sharpness is deteriorated. to see film must be enlarged or checked by loupe. we tried in vain to produce a CU-lens. Dont know how Noblex solved this problem on their focus-versions. Slit seems the same size 3mm? could be the edges on Noblex are much sharper. same behavior on newer roundshots. "better"/ sharper slits.
NB: On Roundshot 65/70/220 grandagon 65mm is tilted by 2-3°(thats why more distorted heads)-seitz sr told leading to better DOF.
Have both for W1500 and RS 65/70/220(matches all Grandagon 65Roundshots) handwritten DOF-tables. if someone is willing to " excel"-them(bring into excel-form) or other form i would scan and provide. DOF-table of Horizons is a joke per se. have comparison shots W1500/Noblex 150 made in a bank-hall. one cams lens is shifted up a bit.
We made sunshades for all three cams. They are very important. RS/W1500 lens-caps with slit(tilt on RS had to be considered when cutting slit) on Noblex we used simply the UV-filter and added tape. still have it but no cam(was testcam). not will not sell is easy making. only filters are rare/tool needed to handle them.
I also used a custommade sunshield-system sort of swanneck with black cardboard at its end on roundshot 65/70/220- someone added lens-shade at rear-lens-element. not and easy task entering there.
you would need Roundshot 220 VR. its tilting heads is generating not only shift but also enlarging DOF. together with small image(slit) it will result in supersharp images. yes not so simple and almost only with tripod. everything mentioned in prospectus with sketch.I need some help understanding the 3 focusing zones on a Noblex 150UX.
What actual distances do the 3 focusing zones (N, M, infinity) represent?
On infinity is the lens actually focused at infinity?
Can I focus in-between these fixed zones?
I make 8ft wide prints and have mostly been shooting at f8 1/2 and infinity but sometimes the lower 1/5th of the foreground is a little too blurry and I was thinking of focus stacking.
I'd like to limit stacking to 2-3 images (to save on drum scanning costs and limit changing rolls) - at my print size can I get away with with shooting 3 images at f8 in each zone?
I have a Fotoman rangefinder but never know exactly where to set the corresponding focus on the camera for maximum image quality. I almost always want the distant background in focus but often have a foreground element at 5-7 meters that also needs be tack sharp.
PaulView attachment 225331 View attachment 225332
go to my forum all Roundshot/Noblex should be there. and i could provide size of Noblex-slit on UV-filter here wait a minute. done in some minutes. Cannot show since i tape deep black IR-filter ontop that could mislead:That's an interesting theory - that the slits - both front and back contribute to increasing the depth of field. I haven't had much problem with flare since I usually shoot with cloudy skies but I would be interested in making one of those sunshades. I have plenty of filters for the camera I never use - do you have a picture of what it looks like ?
Roundshot 65/70/220 grandagon 65/4.5. f16: 4.5- inf,. remember defraction may start at 11/16(must verify maybe its in my forum),I need some help understanding the 3 focusing zones on a Noblex 150UX.
What actual distances do the 3 focusing zones (N, M, infinity) represent?
On infinity is the lens actually focused at infinity?
Can I focus in-between these fixed zones?
I make 8ft wide prints and have mostly been shooting at f8 1/2 and infinity but sometimes the lower 1/5th of the foreground is a little too blurry and I was thinking of focus stacking.
I'd like to limit stacking to 2-3 images (to save on drum scanning costs and limit changing rolls) - at my print size can I get away with with shooting 3 images at f8 in each zone?
I have a Fotoman rangefinder but never know exactly where to set the corresponding focus on the camera for maximum image quality. I almost always want the distant background in focus but often have a foreground element at 5-7 meters that also needs be tack sharp.
PaulView attachment 225331 View attachment 225332
which one? multiple versions built. Super 70 with 220 module also. maybe called Master 5 inch(have tiny image from seitz chrismas card with exotic cams. rather unaffordable. 30k or more? who has the price-lists red and yellow? chinese-menue super 60.Before I'll buy a Noblex, I'll rather buy a Seitz Roundshot Super, my dream camera in the 90s.
60mm is wrong if then 120/61.5mm maybe 220 could be used most probably ask Seitz.The older Roundshot models had a fixed position of the rotating axis and thus had fixed lenses too. They were made in 8mm (ptototype), 35mm, 60mm and 70mm.
The newer models had a mount sliding along the optical axis and offered thus the feature of lens interchanability. The were made 35, 60/70, 70mm. In these models head and rotary motor could be duived from each other, thus enabling more means of panoramic photography.
lookaround has a special enlarger/construction plans in free ebook. have prints by alan zinn. and seitz made one also unaffordable none in service anymore have seen earlier ones at Stutz Foto Color Technik..I considered all: 35mm, 60mm and 70mm. The problem with 60mm was the short length of films, with 70 the lack of emulsion choices.
On the other hand with the a vast range of 35mm format lenses at offer that would be not economical at 35mm film, but better yields a 45mm high image.
But these wide strips soon come to their limits at conventional enlarging even at a LF classic enlarger.
if 1/16 would be true the smaller DOF in W1500 would lead to larger COC meaning e.g. 1/5 which is unrealistic.To achieve the figures on the DOF scale the COC has to be chosen as 0.06mm
The true focal setting at "Infinty." then would be 30m and at "N" 3m .
The kaiser-based by Noblex. good idea. but not my beer. only printed 4x5 pieces on 20 x50cm-colorpaper. 122mm length.Yes, I considerd making my own slit-exposure-unit... as the Seitz one was unaffordable and the only other commercial one I came across seemed to be a prototype only.
noblex images are razorsharp. 8 feet 20x is no problem at all. Rainer K. lampinen told his technopan(inside is the later S3Pro-maybe they had an agreement not to produce 8 exposure times version under Horizon brand) could easily produce images which were 6m long more than twice these 8 feet.I am not sure whether I understand your question?
The Noblex has these three focus settings - in between might work but are not in the manual - and you have the table on the camera with the distances (metric system) which will be in focus. If you want to increase the focuse near to you, either stop down or switch to “m”.
f8 with the focus at infinity will render everything from 4,70m to infinity sharply onto the film, anything nearer to you will be blurry. If you switch to f11 and to “m”, anything from 2,80m to infity will be focused.
The viewfinder of the camera is not for focusing. With the Noblex, you always have to guess distances or measure outside the camera.
About your print size: 8 feet wide is quite a challenge. Considering that one negative is only about 12 cm wide, you are roughly enlarging by factor 20x. I am not sure how you do the stacking, but I would not expect the prints to be 100% crisp. But a 8 feet wide the print is viewed from a certain distance, so you should be fine.
I have some documentation from Kamera Werk Dresden on the Noblex 150 cameras. Both of the documents specify distances associated with the three focus settings as 2.8m, 6.5m and 17.2m, respectively. One of the documents uses the term "middle admission distance" to refer to these numbers, while the other uses the term "maximum of sharpness". So I think it's reasonable to interpret these as the actual focus settings.
Each of these distances has associated with it a further specification referred to as "unscharfenkreis" or "spot diameter" - I believe this is a circle-of-confusion specification, presumably used to calculate the depth-of-field numbers provided, though I have not tried to run the calculations myself to confirm that. Interestingly, this specification varies - 0.05mm for the M and infinity settings, but 0.07mm for the N setting.
noblex images are razorsharp. 8 feet 20x is no problem at all. Rainer K. lampinen told his technopan(inside is the later S3Pro-maybe they had an agreement not to produce 8 exposure times version under Horizon brand) could easily produce images which were 6m long more than twice these 8 feet.
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