Nikon FE2 Auto Mode Ignoring Light Meter

[KyleMika]

Hello,

I just got a Nikon FE2, and everything seems to work great! Or, so I thought. The light meter appears to work as expected, meter moves depending on light conditions and further adjusts depending on ISO/ASA and aperture setting. However, the Auto/Aperture priority mode seems to just ignore the needle. When I fire the shutter, it always keeps the shutter open for around a second, no matter what the needle is saying. If I bump it out of Auto and to the actual shutter speed manually that the meter is recommending, it seems to work just fine. My theory is something is corroded or not making contact somewhere, or I could be using the camera wrong some how. Any ideas on where to go from here? I would very much like auto mode to work. I should also mention that a few times I have gotten auto to work it seems, but it is very inconsistent and seems to be random.

 

[Nitroplait]

It is always good practice to test a battery operated camera with two sets of batteries, as "fresh" batteries are not always fresh.
If a camera has seen little use, operating the controls a bit may "clean" up electrical contacts.
However, based on your description I kind of doubt either will solve the issue, and I would personally opt for a return if at all possible.
The FE2 is a great camera, but it should work as intended. Although prices are rising it is still not economical to have a competent tech do a deep dive (IMO).

 

[Huss]

My FE2 failed like that. It started to take randomly long exposures, ignoring what the meter reading showed.
Didn't get it fixed as I'm sure the cost would have been much more than the camera is worth, and as I had other working cameras..

I do think that you're on the right track and there is oxidation somewhere in the electrics. The hard part is finding someone who wants to track that down.
If you can return it for a refund, do that.

 

[Chan Tran]

In manual mode a voltage is generated by the shutter dial position and feed to the shutter timing circuit to control the shutter timing. In auto the voltage comes from the metering circuit. I think some how the voltage from the metering circuit doesn't get to the shutter timing circuit.

 

[flavio81]

Hello,

I just got a Nikon FE2, and everything seems to work great! Or, so I thought. The light meter appears to work as expected, meter moves depending on light conditions and further adjusts depending on ISO/ASA and aperture setting. However, the Auto/Aperture priority mode seems to just ignore the needle. When I fire the shutter, it always keeps the shutter open for around a second, no matter what the needle is saying. If I bump it out of Auto and to the actual shutter speed manually that the meter is recommending, it seems to work just fine. My theory is something is corroded or not making contact somewhere, or I could be using the camera wrong some how. Any ideas on where to go from here? I would very much like auto mode to work. I should also mention that a few times I have gotten auto to work it seems, but it is very inconsistent and seems to be random.

The camera needs service.

Probably one of the timing switches near the mirror box or shutter needs cleaning and/or adjustment. Or, even more likely: the memory lock switch (not the user's memory lock but the internal ML switch). But anyways, it will need a service.

The electronics on these cameras are reliable. Usually the problems are electric, not electronic.

The fact that the system sometimes works points out to a probable electrical problem.

 

[brbo]

So, your FE2 turned into an FM2. It just needs (easy to get) batteries for all shutter speeds to function.

I'm looking for an FM2, but will probably get FE2, not for the AE but because they are cheaper and I like needle meter indicator better...

 

[NB23]

Super common FE2 problem, and why that camera should be avoided: the problem is the aperture ring around the lens mount is getting stuck and does not follow thr lens’ aperture tab as it should.
The spring inside is gone bad. The overall engineering of the spring mechanism is bad.

Too bad because it’s a great camera when it works as intended. You are basically left with a fully manual camera that still needs batteries.

 

[brbo]

If anyone has FE2 with that super common problem and doesn't use it because of that... I'd gladly have it (EU if possible). FE2 is almost half the price of FM2. Take down further half because of non-functioning AE and you have an FM2 functionality for a quarter of the price. The need for batteries then doesn't seem that bad...

 

[NB23]

If the name of the game is winning at the cheapest possible price, then I would not recomend a half assed FE2.

The Nikon N2000 is the best snapshooter and serious shooter I could possibly imagine. They could be had for 5$ until not long ago and are pretty bulletproof.

 

[brbo]

As mentioned, the name of the game is FM2. And half assed FE2 even improves on that with needle meter. And the only price I'd need to pay for that improvement is a battery.

But I'm sure some were not aware and will appreciate the F-301 recommendation for alternative to FE2.

 

[NB23]

As mentioned, the name of the game is FM2. And half assed FE2 even improves on that with needle meter. And the only price I'd need to pay for that improvement is a battery.

But I'm sure some were not aware and will appreciate the F-301 recommendation for alternative to FE2.

But what good is the needle if it’s always wrongly positioned? The FE2’s problem is that the aperture coupling ring never goes back to open position, or very slowly. The metering needle becomes totally useless.

Another win for the f301/N2000
is its metering interface. Same brilliant interface as the Minolta X-series. Similar to the FE2 but better (this is only my opinion): well defined scale with solid + blinking light. A fast glance is enough to thoroughly understand a scene’s luminance, easy to tweak in manual mode and it shows the user the exact number of exposure stops relative to the correct exposure if one wishes to compensate. Like a needle but more accurately displayed, or at least more clearly. The above is only my opinion.

Too bad they didn’t implement it in the F3.

With all the above being said, there is no question that every photographer on the planet needs to own a FM2(n). In my case, I own a fine black one, unused in the last decade, but will not sell it.

 

[KyleMika]

Thanks for the advice. I am returning it and looking for another FE2. I wanted an FE2 to upgrade from my Nikkormat EL that has served me well for a while, but the shutter is slipping randomly when cranking it, as in the shutter released as soon as I finish winding. Figured it was time to get something better anyway.

 

[brbo]

But what good is the needle if it’s always wrongly positioned?

?! OP explicitly said the needle is working properly.

 

[Nitroplait]

Thanks for the advice. I am returning it and looking for another FE2. I wanted an FE2 to upgrade from my Nikkormat EL that has served me well for a while, but the shutter is slipping randomly when cranking it, as in the shutter released as soon as I finish winding. Figured it was time to get something better anyway.

The FE2 is reliable and it shouldn't be difficult to find a working one.

 

[BMbikerider]

My FE2 failed like that. It started to take randomly long exposures, ignoring what the meter reading showed.
Didn't get it fixed as I'm sure the cost would have been much more than the camera is worth, and as I had other working cameras..

I do think that you're on the right track and there is oxidation somewhere in the electrics. The hard part is finding someone who wants to track that down.
If you can return it for a refund, do that.

It can be something as simple as sticking magnets that operate the shutter. They are easy to clean and recalibrate by a competent mechanic who has the equipment to reset the speeds accurately. If it anything else electronically you may be struggling because spares for the FE2 dried up a good while ago and they can only be found in cameras with other problems but a working shutter and swapped over. That is why I prefer all mechanical designs

 

[Huss]

It can be something as simple as sticking magnets that operate the shutter. They are easy to clean and recalibrate by a competent mechanic who has the equipment to reset the speeds accurately. If it anything else electronically you may be struggling because spares for the FE2 dried up a good while ago and they can only be found in cameras with other problems but a working shutter and swapped over. That is why I prefer all mechanical designs

That’s the problem, it may be something ‘easy’ to fix but most techs nowadays are acred away by electronic cameras w issues, and give the boiler plate response “parts no longer available”
Then you have to consider the cost of the repair when you can find a working FE2 for $120.
The argument that this now fixed camera will be more reliable also does not hold water, because one has no idea what else may fail.

I had the N2000 and it really is an excellent camera. Never had issues w mine, the only problem is it is not a quiet camera due to the built in winder. But it did give it that cool ‘80s sound! Sold it because I had too many cameras.

Not sure about the comment re the aperture follower ring affecting the shutter speeds on the defective FE2. The meter reading in the VF directly corresponds to the aperture follower ring. So if the meter reading shows a correct reading, there is nothing wrong with that ring. It is very easy to check - I had this fail on a Nikon EM and you can see it sticking /not moving.
The problem is the shutter does not match the meter reading.

Anyway, my FE2 failed, I’ve seen others fail like this and now the OP reports his failing the same way.

 

[reddesert]

The OP says the camera fires at the correct speed in manual mode. Thus, it is not sticking magnets.

The OP says the meter needle reads correctly. Thus, it is not a stuck AI tab following ring.

The problem was diagnosed up thread, and now people are failing to read that because they want to talk about their problems with the FE2, not the OP's problem.

 

[Huss]

The OP says the camera fires at the correct speed in manual mode. Thus, it is not sticking magnets.

The OP says the meter needle reads correctly. Thus, it is not a stuck AI tab following ring.

The problem was diagnosed up thread, and now people are failing to read that because they want to talk about their problems with the FE2, not the OP's problem.

Exactly. The OP's problem was the same as mine. But I resolved it by getting rid of the camera...

 

[flavio81]

The OP says the camera fires at the correct speed in manual mode. Thus, it is not sticking magnets.

The OP says the meter needle reads correctly. Thus, it is not a stuck AI tab following ring.

The problem was diagnosed up thread, and now people are failing to read that because they want to talk about their problems with the FE2, not the OP's problem.

+1

Well said.

 

[Chan Tran]

There are a number of analog switches in the cameras. I think one of more of them are bad. The meter generates good voltage so that the meter needle is pointing correctly but it doesn't get to the shutter speed control circuit when switch to auto. There are 3 main analog switches in the cameras. One is to connect the meter voltage to the shutter speed control circuit, another is to connect a fix voltage to make the camera goes to 1/250 when flash is used. Another one is to feed a voltage generate by the position of the shutter speed dial to control the speed manually. So at least the one to connect from the meter is not working.

 

[awty]

I bought a non functioning fe2 which turned up yesterday.
The mirror was locked up, meter was dead, timer wouldnt work, shutter wouldn't fire and film advance was locked.
Took the bottom plate off and could wind on when pulling the latch back, but still wouldn't fire and mirror would only go down manually. Eventually with a bit of lube I could get it to fire sporadically in bulb, bit more lube and actuation I could get it working in m250 and bulb, replaced the batteries, put the back back on and meter was working.
A aperture priority would only fire at one speed. Bit more playing with and it started working again.

Put back together and all is good. Only took the back door off and bottom plate off sprayed a small amount of lite lube a clean and did a few hundred actuations and it is working.

Also cleaned out some fungus in the e 28mm it came with.

 

[Huss]

I bought a non functioning fe2 which turned up yesterday.
The mirror was locked up, meter was dead, timer wouldnt work, shutter wouldn't fire and film advance was locked.
Took the bottom plate off and could wind on when pulling the latch back, but still wouldn't fire and mirror would only go down manually. Eventually with a bit of lube I could get it to fire sporadically in bulb, bit more lube and actuation I could get it working in m250 and bulb, replaced the batteries, put the back back on and meter was working.
A aperture priority would only fire at one speed. Bit more playing with and it started working again.

Put back together and all is good. Only took the back door off and bottom plate off sprayed a small amount of lite lube a clean and did a few hundred actuations and it is working.

View attachment 316951 View attachment 316952 View attachment 316953

Also cleaned out some fungus in the e 28mm it came with.

View attachment 316954

Job well done!

 

[awty]

Job well done!

Just needed some loving

 

[250swb]

Thanks for that, I enjoy a successful DIY story. Taking off the bottom plate of a Nikon of that era reveals a wealth of levers and cams all of which can gum up over the years often making a repair fairly easy, but it's still empowering to fix a dead camera even if it was just a lube job.

 

[awty]

Thanks for that, I enjoy a successful DIY story. Taking off the bottom plate of a Nikon of that era reveals a wealth of levers and cams all of which can gum up over the years often making a repair fairly easy, but it's still empowering to fix a dead camera even if it was just a lube job.

You fix some and some end up in a mess in a snap lock bag.
The FE2 is nicely built and this one probably had just been sitting in a camera bag since last century. Just needed to be coaxed back to life.