I am an F2 user, collector and repairer in that order. I went into this business because I have encountered cowboy camera repairers that cheat people.
I am not a collector. Instead I prefer to use a camera for what it is intended for but if collecting is your thing, that's fine by me.
I couldn't agree more. I too have encountered cameras (not just the F2) that were hacked on by wannabe camera techs. But not all are like that. Many were hacked beyond repair..but I have never cheated customers..
There is nothing wrong with 5 levels of service, as garages also offer several levels of service. I have a fixed price policy, so there are no surprises in extra costs for replacement parts. My standard service even includes the replacement of the slow shutter speeds mechanism, if it is required at no extra charge. I only charge people my extended service if there is significant amount of fungus or corrosion. I have only sold one Basic service, one Maintenance service, and less than five check-up and refoams. They are there if people want them. I dont make up prices on the fly and screw people, as some repairers do.
If you're going to service a camera, you check it out then give a price...or at least that is how I've done it from the beginning.
Many years ago when I went to Wetzlar to get my certification from Leitz to service the screw, SL, and M-series Leicas, I was told if you want to service their camera then do it right and strip it down to the point where you can gain access to everything..
Many younger repairer would have not seen or serviced the F2 before, and they would not know how to adjust it or lubricate it. They would have a go to service the F2, but they would ultimately make a bad job if they dont have any spare parts, proper test equipment, dedicated tools or knowledge. I found most repairers dont do a complete job. Many repairers dont even bother to remove the front assemble to replace the rotten internal foams, or lubricate the internal parts. I would not give a vintage Rolls Royce to a Ford garage to service it.
Nikons are cameras just like a Minolta or a Canon or whatever brand. I don't even consider Leica any better of doing the job right. They don't need any different work/service than any other brand..
Years ago here in Fort Worth this man who taught me a lot of what I know about camera repair today opened his own shop. For years he was the only game in town and he was top notch. He too taught me to do the job right. After his death his useless son took over and has botched most jobs he has done. Needless to say he is now out of business..
Back in the 90's a local GM dealership fully restored a Bentley and a Rolls and they did it with original parts. I don't know where the Rolls is now but I see the Bentley from time to time. Point is it does not always take the original dealership to restore another brand..
Under the F2 mirror housing, there is a small gap for a thin piece of material to move around. That F2 had no corrosion, and its almost mint.
I agree but the pictured battery chamber part was too big to fit through the gap so it did not cause the tape issue. Without having seen the camera I would venture to guess the issue that caused the overlapping tape was caused by a sticky spring that allowed slack to develop which then caused the tape to overlap.. There could have also been an obstruction somewhere else bu again without having seen the camera it would be simply guesswork.
Leicarfcam, it sounds as though you have serviced the F2 before. How long did it take you to service the body?
I have serviced a number of F2's as well as the F. However I have never had a F3 on my bench. No matter what camera I am working on I take a week or more because I strip them down and do a complete cleaning and service again regardless of brand.. I don't do an assembly line job..and I have only had 3 cameras come back for additional work..
As for the shutter tester, and for the interest of APUG members, can you highlight what features are needed to fully test and adjust the F2? We can discuss them feature-by-feature.
There are a number of tests that have to be performed regardless of model including checking the proper tension of springs since there are so many tech wannabe's on these forums who say "add tension.. That'll fix your slow shutter speeds". Some techs only check shutter velocity. But is it right near the opening and closing ends?? And yes all professional grade testers can check these areas. In addition there are other factors such as adjustment of the shutter brake. In the F2 I always replace the rubbers (both).. Most techs don't..
One other thing that I do is after adjustment, I let the camera (regardless of brand) sit for 24-48 hours then check it again for proper adjustment since the springs can settle in and cause it to be out..
Different cameras have slightly different methods of shutter adjustment. One example the Leica IIIa. There is no adjustment for the 1/1000th shutter speed as in the IIIc and IIIf. Proper measurement of the curtains and tapes length is critical. Then proper placement of the closing curtain on the main shutter drum and proper placement of the opening curtain tapes on the main shutter spindles is how you adjust 1/1000th. Even if you are off by 1/2mm you'll never get 1/1000th.
Now all shutters require certain tolerances but there is some leeway not like the above.
Would I pack my Nikon up and ship it off to you for service if I didn't already know how to fix it myself? Not likely since there are already fine techs right here in the USA. Nothing against you but why pay the added expense of shipping it off to the UK?
The shutter curtain in my camera looks fine; I watched it carefully as I advanced via the wind lever. No separation...nothing that looks unusual.
