New to Me Minolta Autocord

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Nokton48

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Minolta Autocord by Nokton48, on Flickr

I snagged this for $70 at a local auction a week ago. I've sent it for a CLA replacement of focus knob and lens calibration. Advances and fires very smoothly.

Some light cleaning marks but those add character :cool::cool:

Any other Autocord users out there? I am into Minolta SRTs etc bigtime so this camera makes sense to me.
 

Dan Daniel

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Yeah, I've handled a few over the years......

You'll love it. Karl does great work. The Seikosha MX shutter is my favorite- stable, strong, hardly ever have problems. And 10 curved bladed aperture.

One thing to watch for is that if you hold it in such a way that you are putting pressure on the lens board, it can bind up the helical focusing system. I still do that every now and then and at first I think the camera is broken until I relax whatever finger is pressing and off it goes.

Some day I am going to find a 75mm Planar lens set from a Rolleiflex and mount it in an Autocord body. I love the Autocord lens, but sometimes I'd like a little of that Planar magic with the Autocord focus....
 

Ariston

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I have an Autocord and will never get rid of it. If it has a fault, I can't find it. Just protect that focusing lever.

That is a great price.
 

GRHazelton

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If you don't have an instruction manual go to orphancameras.com and send Brother Butkus a few dollars for this wonderful service. BTW some leaf shutters of the Autocord's vintage caution against selecting 1/500 if the shutter is cocked. Doing so may - or may not - cause damage. The instruction manual will guide you.
I have an Autocord, in addition to a YashicaMat and an Ikoflex. While all are capable of excellent images - all have Tessar type lenses - I find the Autocord by far the most pleasant to use. Of course, YMMV.
 

Ariston

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BTW some leaf shutters of the Autocord's vintage caution against selecting 1/500 if the shutter is cocked. Doing so may - or may not - cause damage.
Great information. I know this by rote. It is really difficult to move to 1/500 if the shutter is cocked, so that should remind you.
 

Grim Tuesday

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Great camera. The only camera I have ever regretted selling. Stunningly sharp lens. I think it is sharper than my Rolleicord at infinity, but the Rolleicord is sharper close up. It is probably an intentional decision of the lens designers. Here are some of my favorite pictures taken with my Autocord.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132764966@N03/48477618671/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/132764966@N03/48477618966/in/dateposted-public/

Focusing mechanism is a bit fragile but I've taken it hiking and not had a problem. I keep thinking about getting another one but now I have a Rolleiflex and a Rolleicord and I just can't justify it. And if someone offers you $125 for yours and it needs service, don't sell it!!!
 

wjlapier

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I replied in the other thread elsewhere. I'll add that my other two TLRs are Rolleicords III and Vb. The Minolta has a sharper lens then the other two, but those two are no slouches. And the Minolta is heavier too. If your viewfinder is dim consider the Rick Oleson I mentioned earlier. Makes a huge difference IMO. Have Karl install it when he does the CLA. Enjoy!
 

mooseontheloose

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I love the Autocord and have had several over the years (NOT because of the focus lever) - it was just cheaper to replace rather than repair so that's what I did for years. I find the ergonomics of the camera the easiest and most intuitive out of all the TLRs I've owned over the years. Great lens, great camera.
 

guangong

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I had an Autocord in early 1960s. Outstanding lens. As already mentioned, the focusing lever is the weak part of this camera. Minolta made various models, including some for export and others for domestic Japanese market. Some models are supposedly made of better materials than others. I don’t know what differences are, but that’s probably only of interest to collectors.
For $70 plus CLA costs, you came out way ahead. Have fun!
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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I received your camera this morning and have finished working on it. The following services were performed:


repair broken focus lever $150

clean/lubricate focus helix

reset focus of taking/viewing lens

clean outer surfaces of lens groups

lubricated take up film spool drive gear

lubricated film rollers

checked frame advance

cleaned mirror/ground glass/Fresnel lens

cleaned aperture/shutter control panel $15

cleaned aperture/shutter view window $10

checked shutter

cleaned/polished shutter blades $45

lubricated waist level finder magnifier

installed waist level finder support spring $5

tighten pressure plate screws

installed used front leatherette


subtotal: $225

PayPal fees: $8

Shipping: $19

Total due: $252


I do have a used front lens cap, $5. If you want the lens cap then the total due is $257. Please email me in regards to the lens cap.


What a nice looking camera with a very sharp lens. I think you will have fun taking photos with it. When received the shutter would not open. Upon inspection is what a little bit of oil and rust on the shutter blades that were holding it up. Shutter now works very well.


Your camera is ready for shipment. You can make payment to my PayPal account, karl.kathy@frontier.com. Once payment has been received I will mail your camera USPS Priority Mail, insured for $300 and then email you the tracking info. I included a CD of Minolta/Ricoh TLR info, manuals, advertisements and pictures of various models.


regards,

karl
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Received this morning from Karl:

Do you recall which shutter your camera has? If it is the Seikosha (my favorite and the most reliable) then you have to remember to not go to/from the 1/500 second setting with the shutter cocked. The 1/500 second setting has a booster spring that has to be engaged prior to the shutter being cocked and the shutter cannot be cocked in order to go out of the 1/500 second setting. So, if you find you want to go to/from the 1/500 and the shutter is cocked, cover the lens, fire the shutter, set new shutter speed, use the double exposure lever located behind the film crank, rotate the film crank backwards (counter clock wise), the camera is now ready to take a picture at the new shutter speed setting. The double exposure lever allows the shutter to be cocked without moving the film.

The other thing to avoid is carrying the camera with the camera set at mid focus. The focus knob is protected when the camera is at infinity or at close focus, but at mid focus the focus lever points straight down and is exposed to accidental impacts.
 

wjlapier

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Karl is fast. My Rolleicord III took close to 6 weeks, but that was known before I sent it in.

I really appreciate the thorough notes from Karl about the 1/500th shutter speed.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Hi Dan,

your camera is a Seikosha MX model. I like the griptac leatherette, definitely helps in holding the camera when you have gloves on.

One last thing I forgot to mention. You asked earlier what you can do to keep from having problems with your camera. When you are finished with a roll of film and want to remove the film, please make sure that the film crank is up in the start position (basically where the film crank tab is). If you open the film door with the film crank not in the start position there is a chance that the frame counter won’t reset because the film interlock is riding against the frame counter gear and it will drop down into the frame 12 slot. You haven’t damaged anything, just the frame counter won’t reset and the next roll of film you put in the camera won’t stop, it will just wind all the way through the camera. So, just remember to have the film crank in the start position before you open up the film door and then the frame counter will reset correctly.



regards,

karl
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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My new to me Autocord should be back in my hands by this evening according to USPS.
 

removedacct1

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The Autocord is one of my favorite cameras. The Rokkor lens is far sharper than any Rolleiflex lens I have used (Tessar, Xenotar, YMMV of course) and is an excellent performer in every way. The camera itself doesn't have the sophisticated mechanical engineering of the high end Rolleiflexes, but so what? Its reliable and works beautifully. And although the focusing lever is a weak point (easily broken), that style of focus mechanism is easy to use and a very pleasant way to focus. Lots about the Autocord to recommend it.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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B30 Accessories for Minolta Automat by Nokton48, on Flickr

Found some Bay 30 Accessories a few days ago, while digging around the studio

YashicaMat Auxiliary Tele Lens, Yashica Dark Red filter, Spiratone Diffuser and 1A filter.

New lenshood coming from India $12 no hurry
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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I've shot about a roll and a half so far and really enjoying things. Will post soon, as I have time.

Also ordered V2 Export Griptac and Match Technical Mini Soft Release
 
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Ariston

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I've shot about a roll and a half so far and really enjoying things. Will post soon, as I have time.

Also ordered V2 Export Griptac and Match Technical Mini Soft Release
Can't wait to see your shots. I'm really glad you're enjoying it. It really is a fine camera.
 

Bikerider

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I too have one of these little beauties. I think it is from the early production run although it has the normal/standard Rokkor lens and a copal shutter. It came with the box, original instructions, neck strap and lenshood. What was missing is the lens cap so if anyone has a spare...…..(big hint) Otherwise it is mint but will have a CLA because the focussing lever is quite stiff.

It is interesting to discover that series 1 filters are a bit hard to find, especially ones for B&W. I have a yellow green but would like a plain yellow or an orange.

The focussing screen is unmarked, but is a plain ground glass, did they ever make a split image screen?
 
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