NEW ADOTECH III DEVELOPER AVAILABLE

[ADOX Fotoimpex]

Have you ever loaded a sheet of 4x5 film into a 35mm camera? OK it´s most likely going to give what the Germans call film-salad but with our CMS 20 35mm film you can achive the resolution of 4x5 in your 35mm camera. This beats by far ANY digital camera even medium format backs.

With the new ADOTECH III developer this will be now simpler than it ever was. Many improvements have been built into the third generation of this chemistry:

- Even less likeliness to cause turbulences in large homogenoeus grey areas
- Much better keeping properties. You don´t need to refill the concentrate with water and do kryptic math each time you redilute it. Also the working solution now keeps up to 4 weeks which does not require the development of two rolls at a time in order to get full yield.
- ADOTECH III can be diluted in a higher dilution to mix the required amount of working solution for larger tanks

We are delighted by all the advantages of this new version. Highresolution Photography was never this easy to perform.

Introductory offer until May 1st 2016:

We sell the new 4 film kits at the same price per film than we sold the 6 film kits before.

https://www.fotoimpex.de/…/adox-cms-20-ii-13536-4-pack-plus…

https://www.fotoimpex.de/…/adox-cms-20-ii-rollfilm-4-pack-p…

 

[ADOX Fotoimpex]

We are sold out in the film Kits due to the great succes of yesterday and today but we have stock of everything and will manufacture more monday morning. So don´t be afraid to shop ;-)

 

[Mark Tate]

OK well I just ordered 3 of these kits had to get at least 3 to make the shipping to Australia worth it. In hind site I wish I had also got a few rolls of 35mm for my AE-1P

I can not find a lot of information on Adotech III while there is a lot on Adotech II, just how much difference is there, I am particularly interested in the dilution rates as I have seen others get perfect results from 1:29 dilution for Adotech II.

For obvious reasons I wish to get the maximum yield from this developer, knowing my luck I will not be able to get anymore for one reason or another, I am already surprised it is being shipped to me.

Thanks

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I can not find a lot of information on Adotech III while there is a lot on Adotech II, just how much difference is there, I am particularly interested in the dilution rates as I have seen others get perfect results from 1:29 dilution for Adotech II.

Just making sure you saw this data sheet:

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/33535_5_PDF-Datasheet.pdf

You use the entire 100ml bottle to mix 1,000ml working solution. That appears to be the only dilution they publish.

 

[baachitraka]

1+11 is another dilution for 600ml.

 

[pentaxuser]

I have just read your link, Thomas and thanks. I have never seen fixing instructions that say 30-60 secs max for fixer, nor instructions that say an acid stop bath must be used rather than a water stop bath.

This stuff certainly sounds different from other developers. Anyone know the reason why such a short fix time works and why acid stop is definitely needed?

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I have just read your link, Thomas and thanks. I have never seen fixing instructions that say 30-60 secs max for fixer, nor instructions that say an acid stop bath must be used rather than a water stop bath.

This stuff certainly sounds different from other developers. Anyone know the reason why such a short fix time works and why acid stop is definitely needed?

Thanks

pentaxuser

Reading the instructions again, I think the fix time has more to do with properties of the film rather than the developer. ADOX mentions the highlights being compromised by longer fixing times somehow.

I was surprised too. I use Hypam 1+4 for film, and fix standard films like FP4, Tri-X, Foma, HP5 for 4 minutes, and TMax / Delta / Acros for 6 minutes. I'm pretty sure 1 minute would adequately fix any of those films.

 

[pentaxuser]

I was surprised too. I use Hypam 1+4 for film, and fix standard films like FP4, Tri-X, Foma, HP5 for 4 minutes, and TMax / Delta / Acros for 6 minutes. I'm pretty sure 1 minute would adequately fix any of those films.

Maybe we all regularly over-fix but get away with it with most films but CMS 20 is different and is more susceptible to such problems as deterioration of highlights and image destruction due to over-fixing.

It might also be that for whatever reason the emulsion needs an instant stop because water will work eventually but allows further noticeable development which I have never noticed with other films and/or ADOX is concerned that most users of a water stop-bath tend to skimp on this stage and until the fixer hits the surface a quick rinse of water will be ineffective but I am "rationalising" here without any real basis

pentaxuser

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Page 5.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/201062894918374.pdf

Ilford recommends using an acidic stop bath, but say water rinse is OK. 2-5 minute fixing with Ilford Hypam/Rapid Fix 1+4. That's for Delta 100.

 

[Mark Tate]

I have just read your link, Thomas and thanks. I have never seen fixing instructions that say 30-60 secs max for fixer, nor instructions that say an acid stop bath must be used rather than a water stop bath.

This stuff certainly sounds different from other developers. Anyone know the reason why such a short fix time works and why acid stop is definitely needed?

Thanks

pentaxuser

The short fix time is due to the very thin emulsion on this film, it is very easy to over fix from what I have been reading.

 

[Mark Tate]

I have read every thing I can find on this film and developer but there is a lot more info around on Adotech II than III, I have seen others get perfect results with Adotech II at 1:29.

I will try it anyway and see what goes, I have 12 rolls of film and 3 bottles of developer coming, sacrificing a roll or two of film and a bottle of developer for the sake of experimentation is fine by me.

Cant wait to give this film ago, should look amazing from my Fuji 6x9 rangefinders and if all goes well I am also going to get some for 4x5 but that is mainly for the movements of LF rather than the format itself, I think the true forte with this film will be for 35mm TBH, time to give the AE-1P a dust of and and blow out the cobwebs I guess

 

[pentaxuser]

The short fix time is due to the very thin emulsion on this film, it is very easy to over fix from what I have been reading.

Yes, makes sense. Just a pity that a film speed of 20 is almost unusable in most U.K. light conditions while handheld except maybe a wide angle lens on a very bright day at max f8 when DoF is still pretty good.

There is always a trade-off between speed and high resolution

pentaxuser

 

[Mark Tate]

Yes, makes sense. Just a pity that a film speed of 20 is almost unusable in most U.K. light conditions while handheld except maybe a wide angle lens on a very bright day at max f8 when DoF is still pretty good.

There is always a trade-off between speed and high resolution

pentaxuser

I guess the slow speed could be a problem for some, I am in Australia so there is plenty of light for most of the year, my winter is probably sunnier than your summer
Strange as it may seem though I very rarely ever hand hold a camera, even on a bright day with ISO400 film I still use a tripod most of the time, think it is a habit from large format. Film speed is just not an issue for me most of the time.

Was trying to find a blog I seen some time ago with a guy that pushed this film to ISO 800 or something like that, I know the results he had posted looked fantastic, if I can find the page I will post it. Something else I may experiment with my self as well.

The one thing I do know for certain about film and developer is that you should always take manufacturers directions and recommendations with a grain of salt, Adox say this film can not be processed in any other developer yet there are many examples contrary to that, truth is you just do not know what you can do until you try it

Give me around 3 weeks or so and I will have some results and data to post.

 

[Mark Tate]

Well that was a fail , the 12 rolls of 120 MF CMS20 film I ordered turned into 12 rolls of 35mm film, I do not have a 35mm camera even

Analogue photography in Australia is getting impossible.

 

[RauschenOderKorn]

Well that was a fail , the 12 rolls of 120 MF CMS20 film I ordered turned into 12 rolls of 35mm film, I do not have a 35mm camera even

How that? Did Fotoimpex make a mistake? When I had problems in the past, I talked with them and they fixed any problem.

 

[Athiril]

In regards to fixing; if you stop after developer and pull the film out so you can see it then fix it, you'll see CMS 20 fixes within seconds.

Mark: CMS 120 is available locally, but just costs more.



Is there any improvement to contrast, tonality, etc with Adotech III over Adotech II?

 

[Mark Tate]

How that? Did Fotoimpex make a mistake? When I had problems in the past, I talked with them and they fixed any problem.

At first I though they did but after some investigation I have worked out it was my mistake, I have since corrected this with Fotoimpex as well.
All is good in the end I have dragged out the Canon AE-1P, blew of the proverbial dust and ran a roll of crappy fomapan through it and it still works like a charm, I did not realize how much I missed the simplicity of 35mmm and I am really looking forward to seeing what I can get with this film.

 

[Mark Tate]

In regards to fixing; if you stop after developer and pull the film out so you can see it then fix it, you'll see CMS 20 fixes within seconds.

Mark: CMS 120 is available locally, but just costs more.



Is there any improvement to contrast, tonality, etc with Adotech III over Adotech II?

Yes I can get the film from Vanbar in Melbourne, it is not that expensive either, they only have AdotechII at $38 for a 50ml bottle, they do not stock AdotechIII
Not to sure what the differences are as in film looks and tone but the AdotechIII has far better keeping properties than #2, AdotechII is no longer made as far as I know.
I can get 4 bottles of AdotechIII from Fotoimpex for a total cost of A$100 or 8 bottles for around A$150, a lot cheaper than Vanbar. Shipping from Germany or the US is most of the time faster than shipping from Melbourne. I got a filter from BH-Photo last week and it only took 3 days to get to me.
Knowing Vanbar they will not have any next week, they have less film every day. I gave up on Vanbar when they shut the Sydney shop down and only get from them what I really have to.

The recommended fixing time for CMS 20 is 60 seconds, it is a very thin emulsion but even Tmax100 clears in around 30 seconds with fresh fixer.

I am assuming you mean taking the film out with a very deep red safe light right, anything else will fog it.

 

[Leigh B]

It appears Adotech III is not/no longer available here in the US.

So what do we use to develop CMS 20?

- Leigh

 

[Sal Santamaura]

It appears Adotech III is not/no longer available here in the US.

So what do we use to develop CMS 20?...

Adotech III:

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chemistry/adox-adotech-iii-100ml-to-develop-4-adox-cms-20-films.html​

 

[miha]

It appears Adotech III is not/no longer available here in the US.

So what do we use to develop CMS 20?

- Leigh

It appears to me out of stock, should be back next month.

 

[TheToadMen]

Adotech III:

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chemistry/adox-adotech-iii-100ml-to-develop-4-adox-cms-20-films.html​

At this time they have 90 units in stock at www.Fotoimpex.de. Not until you try to order 91 or more units the system start screaming (including some spelling errors):
NOT ENOUGH STOK ON ALL ITEMS
In case you prefer an immediate shippment please change the amount to the given in stock values otherwise your shippment will be released after we have received the missing items from our suppliers.

BTW:
"... The content 100 ml is good in a dilution 1+9 for the preparation of 1000 ml working solution to process 4 CMS20 ... "
So you can develop 90x4=360 films with this single order.

 

[pentaxuser]

TheToadMen, I am now completely confused. The Adox instructions says 4 films from 100ml concentrate but goes on to say the correct dilution is 1+9 and this develops 4 films. I presume that the logic is as follows: If 100ml concentrate give a working stock solution of 1000ml and assuming you need a minimum of 250ml to develop 1 film and also assuming the developer is one shot then dump that does mean that 1000ml only does 4 films

The Adox instructions seem to be correct. This means that it is quite an expensive developer but in return for its price you get amazing resolution form 35mm film. I cannot work out how 360 films are possible

Thanks in anticipation of an explanation

pentaxuser.

 

[TheToadMen]

Hi pentaxuser, I hope this helps?

{start of quote}
Processing of ADOX CMS 20 in ADOX ADOTECH III Developer (100 ml PE-HD bottle)
(ADOTECH III has improved keeping properties over ADOTECH I and II so the refilling of the bottle with water has become obsolet. Instead of this we recomend the use of protective gas or squeeze the botle in a way that no air is left inside)

Processing of 2 films in 500ml of working solution (Jobo Tank)
Mix 500ml from 50ml of concentrate.
Dilution 1+9.
With the working solution of 500m 2 rolls of film (120 or 35mm) can be processed (one after the other).
The overall capacity of the 100ml bottle is thus 4 rolls of film.
Increase the developing time by 10 to 15% for the second roll to be processed in the working solution.
Developing time 35mm film exposed to 12 ASA, dilution 1+9, 20°C: 8 Minutes.
Developing time 120 film exposed to 12 ASA, dilution 1+9, 20°C: 9 Minutes.
Developing time 35mm film exposed to 20 ASA, dilution 1+9, 24°C: 7 Minutes.
Developing time 120 film exposed to 20 ASA, dilution 1+9, 24°C: 8 Minutes.

If stored in a completely filled (no air left) glas bottle the working solution can be kept for 4 weeks
Thus you do not need to process the second roll of film on the same day like with ADOTECH II.

Processing of 2 films in 600ml of working solution (Various Tanks)
In case your tank does not fully cover a rollfilm with 500ml you can dilute the developer higher (1+11) in order to get 600ml of working solution.
Your developing times need to be adjusted in this case.
Developing time 35mm film exposed to 12 ASA, dilution 1+11, 20°C: 10 to 10,5 Minutes.
Developing time 120 film exposed to 12 ASA, dilution 1+11,20°C: 11 to 11,5 Minutes.

Developing of 15 sheets of 4x5 Film in 1000ml of working solution
Mix 1000ml of working solution using the entire bottle of 100ml.
We recomend for sheetfilms tray development with a constant sligth agitation.
Tilt the tray gently from each side (not just from one side).
Process each sheet separately. After the 8th sheet the developing time needs to be slightly increased by 10 after the 12th sheet by an additional 5% (yielding a total of 15% to the standard developing time).
Developing time sheetfilm exposed to 12 ASA, dilution 1+9, 20°C: 9 Minutes.
{end of quote}

It's explained in their datasheet "ADOX CMS 20 Ultrahigh-Resolution-Film", see: https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/58675_5_PDF-Datasheet.pdf

Sincerely,
Bert from Holland

TheToadMen, I am now completely confused. The Adox instructions says 4 films from 100ml concentrate but goes on to say the correct dilution is 1+9 and this develops 4 films. I presume that the logic is as follows: If 100ml concentrate give a working stock solution of 1000ml and assuming you need a minimum of 250ml to develop 1 film and also assuming the developer is one shot then dump that does mean that 1000ml only does 4 films

The Adox instructions seem to be correct. This means that it is quite an expensive developer but in return for its price you get amazing resolution form 35mm film. I cannot work out how 360 films are possible

Thanks in anticipation of an explanation

pentaxuser.

 

[adelorenzo]

It appears Adotech III is not/no longer available here in the US.

argentix.ca (an APUG sponsor) has quite a few bottles in stock located in Canada, you could check with him on shipping whether he can ship to the USA.