Are you saying that you get visible detail down to Zone I with TMax films? I haven't used those films in years and didn't use either that much when I did, but if I can get better shadow separation lower down the curve I may have to revisit; especially TMY for the 8x10.
TMX or TMY and why?Yep, sometimes clear down to Zone 0, developed normal. Of course, if you're going to skate right to the edge of the ice rink, you need to meter very carefully. I was just out in the darkroom looking at a couple of my TMY 8x10 prints on MGWT fully dry, and they hold lovely gradation and detailed texture way way down there. I wouldn't have gotten that with FP4 or HP5. Yes, there are all kinds of tricks ZS and otherwise to improve results with most films; but often only a true long-scale film does it right. TMY has gotten expensive, so I tend to shoot lesser contrast scenes on other films instead; but when you need TMY, you need it.
The ASA method for rating transparency film is different. I have no problem with transparency film exposure, and find the speed ratings to be accurate.
I assure you and everyone reading this forum that you will get better results using + 2/3 stop exposure than your meter 35mm TTL SLR suggests, with B&W film. I was 10 in 1960, BTW.
I would also be inclined to assert that many people have never seen a really good B&W print.
I remember using a Nikkormat (averaging meter) back in the 1960s, and although I did not appreciate it at the time, my negatives always looked a little thin and lacking in shadow detail. When I got my own camera, a Leicaflex SL, I started metering the shadow areas directly, and this gave me more exposure. It was quite a revelation. My prints looked much better.
The change in film speed has no effect on the discussion from the Kodak book, by the way.
…
In my opinion, the 1960 change was based on obsolete data.
This is classic… the world’s foremost thought leaders in photographic exposure reached a consensus on film speed rating some 60 years ago, and now a Roman emperor declares them in error. LOL.
Thanks for sharing that paper again. Original source material is invaluable to understanding! Does the paper really end at 10 pages with a formula, and no conclusion? Or, perhaps, that section with the recommendation was the conclusion.
The version posted was redone (typeset) by a member of the forum. The original copy wasn't in the best of shape. I tend to wonder whether a page is missing too or if it just looks that way because of the way it was typeset. I'll have to look for the original.
Bill, the problem I have with generic film curves like the ancient one you post is that they are misleadingly generic. Actual films aren't all the same…
I have provided the facts behind this. It makes perfect sense.This is classic… the world’s foremost thought leaders in photographic exposure reached a consensus on film speed rating some 60 years ago, and now a Roman emperor declares them in error. LOL.
For the paper with the reasoning and analysis of the change to the 1960 fixed density speed method, please see Nelson, C.N., Safety Factors in Camera Exposure, Photographic Science and Engineering, Vol 4, n. 1, January-February 1960. Found here: Safety Factors Paper.
But photograph a soccer match with an 8X10. Action? Not much!In 1956, the Zonies were still shooting 8x10. Many still do today. Clear up well into the 1990's, there were multiple camera stores in this area alone with entire departments dedicated to a major selection of large format cameras and lenses. Plenty of real meter choices too. I personally moved FROM 35mm to 6X7, then rapidly up to 4X5, then 8X10.
I'm glad I kept equipment necessary to all those formats; but my own photographic evolution runs contrary to the Pop Photo ad stereotypes, and so does the gravitational pull of the Zone System itself. Easy and "popular" isn't the point - getting better negatives and prints is. And one should start with a serious real meter.
By now, I'm sure both AA and Minor White are churning in their graves. This has all drifted so far from any semblance of Zone System information as to be getting ludicrous. But even they knew how to apply their respective systems to 35 mm photography as well. And even before their time, photographers knew how to capture sports and movement using box cameras. No, probably no pro sports or wildlife photographer would do that today. But look up the career of Muybridge, or even one of the current movies about his life,
and you'll understand.
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