Mixing Chemicals & Developing First Roll of B&W

[braxus]

Yes I have the Kodak thermometer from Matt, that he included. I just hope I can figure out times correctly if the temperature is off from normal. I keep it cool here during the day when Im out at work or in bed.

 

[MattKing]

You need a Kodak Darkroom Dataguide and the development "computer" in it.

 

[Craig]

I would get the datasheet for whatever film you plan to use, there are usually temperature correction tables there.

Here is the generic Ilford correction table, I have found it quite accurate: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Temperature-compensation-chart.pdf

 

[braxus]

What ever film I plan to use? That would be difficult, as I use well over a dozen or more different B&W films that I have in my freezer. I have favorites, but I tend to use a bit of everything these days.

 

[Donald Qualls]

You need a Kodak Darkroom Dataguide and the development "computer" in it.

I would get the datasheet for whatever film you plan to use, there are usually temperature correction tables there.

Here is the generic Ilford correction table, I have found it quite accurate: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Temperature-compensation-chart.pdf

For room/chemical temperatures from about 15C up to above 35C, I've used a calculator and the rule of 4% change in time per degree F. At present, I'm using the Dev-It app on Android, which does this calculation for me when I set up the timer.

 

[braxus]

Well I placed my order at Beau Photo in Vancouver for some chemicals and a couple items to get me going. I went to Kerrisdale Cameras 2 weeks ago and picked up some Stop and Fixer. So I pretty much have what I need now to get to developing. I lost my film extractor from my photolab days. Not sure where it ended up. I'll maybe use a can opener. I'll post some results when I finally get down to it and do my first rolls. I need to mix up my Xtol first. I already have several rolls to do. I wont be doing my 4x5 though, as Im not comfortable with the drum I have to do it in there.

 

[Craig]

Is it 35mm you're processing? I put my fingers in-between the felt lip and pry them open and then you can extract the film.

 

[braxus]

I'm doing both 35 and 120. I'm skipping my 4x5.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've seen leader extraction (on video) done with a pair of business cards or strips cut from a 3x5 index card. I've never gotten it to work.

I use a bottle opener that stays on my key ring under the heading of "never know when you might need it."

 

[braxus]

So I mixed up my package of Xtol first. I warmed up the water a little bit and put 4Ls in a pail. Mixed in Part A slowly while stirring. No color change. Put in Part B while stirring. Still no color change. The water remained clear the whole time. I noticed some flecks of powder that didn't seem to want to dissolve. Stirred for a while, but they are still in there. I put in the last litre of water and mixed. Not what I expected for doing what I understand to be correct in procedure. How warm does the water need to be? It was noticably warmer then the room temperature. So I decided to just try and use it, so I put the 5Ls in a wine bag. I'm letting it cool down before I use it. I hope I didn't get a bad batch of Xtol. Anyway I have some rolls to sacrifice, so I will test it with them first.

 

[Donald Qualls]

What color was your pail?

I ask because my Xtol turned a fairly pale orange after dissolving the A bag, and cleared up to near water-clear after dissolving B. I also had nothing left suspended -- but then again, my Xtol (the batch I'm using now) was expired in 2002, so yours is probably three production changes newer.

 

[braxus]

My pail color is of course orange. It didn't look like it changed color, but what do I know. I dont know why it all didn't fully dissolve. Next time I'll heat the water to even warmer for hopefully better luck.

I rolled the film onto the Paterson reels. Not as easy for a first timer. Hard to find the start location. And once I got to the end of the film, it curled so bad, that it was hard to finish it on the reel. I'm probably going to have film touching on these two reels I loaded. I seemed to have better luck getting the film onto steel reels. But I guess its all a learning curve.

 

[MattKing]

My pail color is of course orange. It didn't look like it changed color, but what do I know. I dont know why it all didn't fully dissolve.

You wouldn't see the colour in an orange pail.
I mixed my most recent batch using one of the packages that I purchased recently from Beau - the same ones as you. There were a couple of flecks of powder still swimming around, but after decanting into smaller containers and sitting for a day or so they were gone.

 

[braxus]

Sounds okay Matt. I was hoping I could do some rolls today. I just need for the developer to cool down some first. Im hoping the flecks don't harm the film and just wash down the drain when done.

 

[Donald Qualls]

If you're using the developer diluted, you could toss in a couple ice cubes as part of the dilution volume; by the time they melt, the developer ought to be at or below 20C. If you're running stock, stand the graduate in a pan of ice water and watch the thermometer in the developer.

 

[MattKing]

Are you intending to use the X-Tol stock, or diluted 1+1?
If the latter, measure the temperature of the stock. If it is 8F higher than your target temperature, mix that stock with water that is 8F below your target temperature. Let it sit for a few minutes, and it will likely be at or near your target temmperature.

 

[braxus]

Im using it stock dilution.

Im doing two rolls in the Paterson tank to start. So I need 580ml of fluid correct? The stop is 1+19, so for 580ml, how much fluid do I need to mix in the water? For the fixer, its 1+4. Not sure how much makes 580ml either on that.

 

[MattKing]

Just use 600 ml - it will make your life easier.
If you intend to re-use the stop bath for a couple of days and/or several developing sessions mix it at the recommended strength - 30 ml + water to top it up to 600 ml.
If you are going to use it once or twice within a couple of days, mix it at half strength - 15 ml + water to 600 ml.
It will work fine at half strength if you only use it that amount.
Ilford says that 600 ml of working strength fixer should have the capacity to fix about 14 rolls of film. It would be best to do a clip test at the beginning and record the time. Then do clip tests every few rolls, and discard the fixer when the time extends to double the original.

 

[braxus]

So I guess 120ml of fixer fluid to the rest water? Or I probably should mix up 1L and put the rest in a container. So 1L is 200ml of fluid then?

 

[Donald Qualls]

I mix both stop bath and fixer a liter at a time -- stop bath will run for a long time, as long as the indicator is yellow, it's good. Fixer, as noted, 16 rolls equivalent per liter, or 20, depending whose dilution you use. I mixed two liters of rapid fixer when I restarted my darkroom in May, I'm still using it (20 rolls or so), clearing time is still under a minute.

 

[braxus]

My developer temperature is still hovering around 76 degrees F. So I need to wait a bit longer.

 

[BrianShaw]

Im using it stock dilution.

Im doing two rolls in the Paterson tank to start. So I need 580ml of fluid correct? The stop is 1+19, so for 580ml, how much fluid do I need to mix in the water? For the fixer, its 1+4. Not sure how much makes 580ml either on that.

In the Ilford technical info sheets for DD-X is a handy dilution table. Page 3 of 10. This could be easier for you than the arithmetic. I find it handy.

 

[braxus]

I mixed up 1L of fixer, set aside 600ml, and put the remaining 400ml in a Datasafe container. I'll put the rest in there when I finish doing my rolls. I cooled down the developer with cold water around the container. Its now around 72 degrees.

 

[braxus]

My first 2 rolls Im doing are Forte 400 and J&C Classic 400 (same film). Developing chart says 12 minutes in Xtol straight. Im hoping that is right.

 

[MattKing]

stop bath will run for a long time, as long as the indicator is yellow, it's good.

One caveat to this - as braxus is using Ilfostop, a citric acid based stop bath, caution is important because working strength citric acid stop bath is a great environment for mold.
It can get rather ugly after a few days.
I agree with Donald if your stop bath is the Kodak stuff or any other acetic acid based stop bath.