Thanks for the advice. The Reveni should fill my needs and both its size and price were appealing. Right now, KEH has almost a dozen Pentax digital meters. Half are factory meters and the rest are Zone VI modified.
When you start to use the Reveni Spot Meter, IMO the most important thing to remember is that it's not a true spot meter. I would more probably classify it as a highly center weighted meter. But once you get the hang of where to point it it works great.
I agree.... so when i'm not using i remove the battery...& i'm very careful how i put it in the bag when i am using it & i carry an extra battery. At first i found it frustrating, but there's no other choice that's as light and accurate.... so i live with it.
It was this thread that started me looking at spot meters. Seeing a lot of aging, expensive beast as the best option was not encouraging. I had two Reveni cube meters and loved them but tired of the inconsistent battery life. After researching the spot meter and knowing it had been on the market long enough to shake out the initial problems, liking the company and really wanting to support the Reveni crew, it’s not that big of an investment to give it a try. If I like it, great! If not, it’s a learning experience.
Also they’re now bundled with the AAA battery pack.
I recommend bitting the bullet sooner rather than going through buying-almost-but-not-quite-as-good-and-then-having-to-sell-and-repeat-the-process.
I really like GE's PR-1 and PR-2. Cheap, reliable, and pretty durable from my experience. Almost every one I've picked up to test in antique shops worked right off the bat. I recently got an Ikophot with a Contaflex (not the cool kind, the SLR) that I'm excited to try out but I can't put down the PR-1 lol.
I really like GE's PR-1 and PR-2. Cheap, reliable, and pretty durable from my experience. Almost every one I've picked up to test in antique shops worked right off the bat. I recently got an Ikophot with a Contaflex (not the cool kind, the SLR) that I'm excited to try out but I can't put down the PR-1 lol.
My working meters. In order of use... 1- Pentax, 2- Digisix. 3 - Leicameter
View attachment 336035
You’re saying the Reveni doesn’t exclude out of frame light as well as other spot meters?
Not sure if this question is directed toward me, but..
The Reveni Spot Meter has two circles overlaying the scene that its pointed at. The inner "spot" seems to read 100% of the light coming into the meter. The second circle can be thought of as an area of influence. The influence is greater as something bright approaches the "spot" while the effect diminishes--probably is even 0%--as you get closer to the outer perimeter of the second circle. I've tested mine and the influence on the meter can be quite significant, if you're not careful with what you're doing. The closer you get to your subject, the more reliable the center "spot." This isn't always feasible, of course. Does this make sense?
To be fair, my other spot meters (Pentax Digital and Sekonic L558) are also influenced when brighter areas are just outside the spot, but not as much as the Reveni. When using the Reveni Spot, I've learned to read boarder areas of the scene using Zone Mode, and then place that value on whatever zone I want. Then, it has this neat function whereby you can hold down the read button and scan the entire scene to see where those areas fall in relation to your original placement. I should probably note that I shoot mostly B&W film.
Not sure which one that is, since I only know the PR-1 and PR-2, but usually they don't perform really well in low light. That's really their only weakness. I usually just use my phone to meter when presented with a situation like that. Here you can see the PR-1 (left), PR-2 (middle), and PR-3 (right) for comparison.I have a GE, not sure what model, it has the removeable front, the lid closed for very bright light, lid open dim, and the entire front removed for very dim light. I keep it with my Argus C3, it is spot on when compared to the Gossan, SCB. I need to test it see how well it does in really low light.
Not sure which one that is, since I only know the PR-1 and PR-2, but usually they don't perform really well in low light. That's really their only weakness. I usually just use my phone to meter when presented with a situation like that. Here you can see the PR-1 (left), PR-2 (middle), and PR-3 (right) for comparison. View attachment 336231
Not sure which one that is, since I only know the PR-1 and PR-2, but usually they don't perform really well in low light. That's really their only weakness. I usually just use my phone to meter when presented with a situation like that.
All of the metes I posted are within a stop of the Gossen which is dead on with mu Minolta 9 film and Sony A900 SLR with 50mm lens and in average mode. I did find a couple of Weston's that have dead cells, I just put in a box to take the recycling center at the Goodwill. I use the GE with my Argus 3, the Gossen and Weston V and VI with various MF gear. I hate to admit, but I do use my Pentax K2000 DSLR as a meter as well. In spot mode with a 28 to 90 zoom it reads just as well my spot meter, one of the reasons I have spent the money to replace the Soligar.
Here is an image of some of my meters. Not included is the Soligar spot meter, a few more Westons, a Vivitar and a Bower, the spot meter is the boot of my SUV with some LF gear. The Weston V is shown with the inveracone, the GE which I do not know the model number is show with the cover off. sitting above the main body of the meter. Of all these I perfer the Weston V, it can be used with one hand. The Gossen although quite accurate needs to 2 hands to get the LEDs just right. In the bottom right are a Sekonic and Norwood Directors. My understanding is that Sekonic bought Norwood and moved the factory to Japan? Although the dome is quite yellow from age it is still spot on.
This thread reminds me of the old saying that if you have a watch, you know what time it is. If you have two watches, you never know what time it is.
Would you describe yourself as a belt-and-braces kind of guy? I mean, that’s a LOT of light meters!
This thread reminds me of the old saying that if you have a watch, you know what time it is. If you have two watches, you never know what time it is.
Light meters can be calibrated, preferably at the same lab, while we can Simonize watches.
Do you synchronize them before or after they're waxed?
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