MattKing
Moderator
I have the flip phone, a cellular modem equipped smart tablet, and a digiflash meter. Best of three worlds.
Mamiya Six Folder
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I make my life as difficult as possible, 'cuz I'm cool. 
... sorry. It's just a tool. Use it when it's appropriate. Don't use it when it isn't.
I work in IT. I manage web servers by the hundreds. I have a DSLR. I just bought a half-plate camera. Why impose artificial limitations on what you can do?
Be careful with LED flashlights-- low power, they're great, but some of the newer high power flashlights can almost certainly go right through the backing. I carry a teeny-tiny one that goes from about half a candle-power up to 1500 lumens.
... sorry. It's just a tool. Use it when it's appropriate. Don't use it when it isn't.
I work in IT. I manage web servers by the hundreds. I have a DSLR. I just bought a half-plate camera. Why impose artificial limitations on what you can do?
Be careful with LED flashlights-- low power, they're great, but some of the newer high power flashlights can almost certainly go right through the backing. I carry a teeny-tiny one that goes from about half a candle-power up to 1500 lumens.
I make my life as difficult as possible, 'cuz I'm cool.
... sorry. It's just a tool. Use it when it's appropriate. Don't use it when it isn't.
I work in IT. I manage web servers by the hundreds. I have a DSLR. I just bought a half-plate camera. Why impose artificial limitations on what you can do?
Be careful with LED flashlights-- low power, they're great, but some of the newer high power flashlights can almost certainly go right through the backing. I carry a teeny-tiny one that goes from about half a candle-power up to 1500 lumens.
I have advanced computer training and use computer programs in my work that most people couldn't even open. I have digital cameras. But I'm not dependent on computers everywhere I go. Those people (you and most everyone) are the artificially limited ones.
Your assumptions about me are unwarranted, and inaccurate. Being able to run complex software just means you're well trained.
As I said-- they're tools. Use the right tool for the right task.
The right tool for an analog camera frame counter is analog.
Ahhh... Sympathetic magic at work. I see.
I don't know what that means, but slogging onward and upward...my temporary high tech solution for now is simply to count the number of advance knob rotations when I can't see the frame number. My frame spacing may increase slightly as the roll advances but I'll have to try it and see if it affects the last image or not. Now that I know roughly when the next number should appear based on rotation #, it may be harder to miss.
You'll find your frame to frame increases by about 50% from first frame to end of roll with uncompensated turns counting. For 35mm in a 120 camera, I've done 3 1/2 half-turns at the start (after advancing the fogged leader by guess), dropped to 3 half-turns after two frames, then to 2 1/2 after two more, finally two half-turns for any additional (there'll only be three or four more). You'll probably need to reduce turn count more for 120 film; the film is at least as thick as 35mm, and the backing is as thick as the film, so the thickness builds up at least twice as fast.
on my certo super sport dolly from the 30s they had it already written on the advance wheel
Having advanced the film via the red window to "1", you lift the advance knob and put the number "1" at the index mark. After each photo you make one full term plus the way to the next number (except 11 and 12, where it's less than a full term, the roll being thicker). Works like a charm.
http://www.120folder.com/certo_ssd.htm
Having advanced the film via the red window to "1", you lift the advance knob and put the number "1" at the index mark. After each photo you make one full term plus the way to the next number (except 11 and 12, where it's less than a full term, the roll being thicker). Works like a charm.
http://www.120folder.com/certo_ssd.htm
[QUOTE=" for 120 film; the film is at least as thick as 35mm, and the backing is as thick as the film, so the thickness builds up at least twice as fast.[/QUOTE]
Actually, it's the other way round...
For example FP4: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/...store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_uk
Actually, it's the other way round...
For example FP4: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/...store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_uk
That's certainly mechanically simpler than what my Super Ikonta B has -- and no more affected by seventy years of changes in film thickness. Less usable in the dark, though -- no advance stop, just something easier to read than the frame numbers through the red window.
Okay, but with another roughly 0.1 mm of backing paper, you're still building up radius about 50% faster than you would with 35mm in the same spool.
I had to measure: backing paper (Kodak) is 0.12 mm.
Okay, that's .23 mm (approximately) increase in radius per turn of the spool, vs. 0.125 (from the Ilford numbers posted) for 35mm. In any case, you'll need more correction for turns counting with 120 than with 35mm, as I noted previously.
There are no such markings on my version of the Mamiya 6, unfortunately. And with so confoundingly many variations of the M6 and so few manuals out there its impossible to know what they intended. I even have to guess that its loaded the same way as other 6's for which manuals are available, because there are no markings to line up for that either. But that at least seems a safe guess.
My wind knob only has ASA numbers, which are perfectly useless for anything but reference, and useless for that too since they only go up to 200 and the slowest film I will use is 400.
I just noticed that between there is an "S" on the dial between the highest and lowest ASA numbers, so maybe that's supposed to line up with something when you start...but with no mechanical frame counter and no advance brake I don't see what the point would be so maybe it means "Some other speed"
Got some serious light leaks in my 6...on the bright side, HP5 was a lot easier to read through the window than Portra 400. I'm thinking the window must be at fault here at least in part. The red is pretty much faded away on the filter, and the sliding door that covers it is wonky and sometimes doesn't close all the way. But I'm not sure that could do all of this...
MattKing
Moderator
I don't think those leaks are from the window - they are out near the edge.
Here's the horizontal RF adjustment screw. Might be easier for someone to find it through the access port if they can see what they are groping for. But it's probably not worth trying, just take the top off.
Now whats this other screw? Is that a vertical adjustment?
Now whats this other screw? Is that a vertical adjustment?
yeah, I didn't think these suckers had light seals...but they do. And mine must be bad. I see seals in there, but it looks like black string. Should it look like black string, or foam?
Should known, being an old Mamiya. Otherwise it worked great and the lens looks pretty good.
MattKing
Moderator
Velvet thread/cord can be a really effective light seal material.
This aint velvet. I don't know what this stuff is. It looks coarse, almost like horsehair but its probably some poly string product. Maybe its just old and worn. I'll try some black wool. I'm sure not paying for a kit to be shipped from Japan and nobody else has it stateside unless Jon Goodman does.
I seem to recall reading that black yarn was used for light seals rather frequently in the 1950s, including my Mamiya as late as the early RB67 roll film backs. Likely not poly, more likely wool, linen, or cotton.
I had the same type of leaks on one of mine. the seals were worn cotton velvet. I replaced them by modern foam, but it didnt help. so I suggested that it had to do with the bellows and the film plane focussing. I searched, but did not find it. so, as usual, I gave the camera away for free. I don`t waste my time with those problems.
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