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- Oct 8, 2006
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And 2234 isn't really meant as a separation film. 2237 is a separation film, intended purely for digital recorders and while 2238 could be used for direct separations, if it had any masking effects, they would be explicitly stated. It's the same with the old Separation Negative 1 & 2, they had wider uses than you assume, such that if they had masking onboard, Kodak would have needed to specify as such (not least because they'd probably behave rather like Agfacontour equidensity film as they were not intended for colour coupler development). You seem to assume that no one else but you has access to the relevant source materials, or to people who worked with many of these materials (albeit more in the print industry). If you really have meaningfully original source materials, publish them verbatim.
I asked specifically if you made (in DT separations) the kinds of highlight masks used in the industry, being the long range highlight, highlight, and specular (made photographically). I can safely assume you have not.You're twisting my words. I've made all kinds of highlight and other masks, and have experimented with various methods and films for generating tricolor separations which I certainly wouldn't recommend as ideal to others, and only used myself for "what if" experimentation. And I'm getting a bit tired of your "know it all" attitude, especially since I've been in communication over the years with DT veterans who have rather different approaches to the same kind of problems. And I most certainly don't appreciate you implying these helpful people are "lying" just because you find their specific proven methodology doesn't comply with your own hypothetical version. In fact, there's not a lot of difference from making highlight masks from Tech Pan than using the same film in 35mm for title slides, which was once commonly done, including by me.
In the course of that, I've developed all kinds of specialized masking tweaks AS NEEDED. But that doesn't mean they identically correspond to your imagined and historically incorrect notion involving a whole graduated series of progressive highlight masks. All kinds of improvisations occurred under special circumstances; some were no doubt invented on the fly. That does not mean they were routine by any means. And I could more easily tailor my own masking variations on demand, namely, using present films, not discontinued ones.
Frankly, you're not just beating a dead horse, but a dead unicorn, by overcomplicating everything. And you're making assumptions about "standard industry practices" which were actually all over the map, involving not only numerous alternate routes, but even different sources of dyes and related materials.
If you choose to be one of George Smiley's spies snooping into the deep dark secrets of the 1950's and 1960's, that's your call. But it won't help much going forward if you're hoping to revive the process.
I know how to make densitometer plots too. But I've also seen lovely DT prints where neither a densitometer was involved, nor masking. It's a highly malleable process by adjusting dye pH, bleaching, etc. The eye evaluating the result itself is a lot more important than "empirical methodology" involving endless numbers you can't seem to make sense of yourself.
Drew said- If one wants to attract new devotees to DT, they need to simplify the workflow and accessibility to needful ingredients as much as possible, not overcomplicate it with technical minutiae of only arcane interest.
This is a very important set of words. I have been working professionally for 50 years printing for others (including today) I have seen many different processes by many different printers and I must say the key to young workers is not to make it difficult for them but to give them a simple workflow to follow and as they get more and more interested they advance and make good prints. One sees this with the Colour Carbon Process , basically only a few can do it well and I know three of the best and in all cases the steps and methods are too advanced for beginners and people lose interest. This is why I like the gum over process, it can be done in the back yard with simple steps.
I worked at a Dye Transfer Lab in my past life and I remember the deer in the headlight syndrome considering doing this process.
I believe a consistent supply of “dye transfer” (dye imbibition transfer) materials, and a hands on instruction would make the process much easier in introducing it to others. This would simplify many of the problems with using old film, synthesizing and formulating dyes, developers, etc. And yes probably using digitally created separation negatives would make the separation process a lot easier as well. I think there is value in optically separating a color transparency, but I tend to agree its a more advanced level.
There are a number of creative things one can do with it. The look of “dye transfers” are unique from any other process. If one were to fine tune their process, its possible to make prints that exceed the gamut of mainstream inkjet and type C processes. Dye prints are very archival and light stable as well.
Bob, what part of the Dye Transfer process did you work on? What lab was this? Were you trained at Kodak on Dye Transfer?
Archival "permanence" depends on the specific dyes involved. The Kodak sets were a compromise between easy transfer and retouching versus permanence versus hue purity. You can't have it all at once. And there can be little doubt that current Fuji RA papers have significantly better light tolerance under lengthy display than typical DT's, and that DT's fall well behind Ciba when it comes to dark storage life and resistance to atmospheric pollutants.
The repro problems of DT are well known. Poor highlight control (which would seem to warrant a whole new approach to making the matrix film itself), difficulty finding a pure permanent cyan process dye, not the sharpest printing media by any means, and the considerable amount of time, expense, and work space involved. Plenty of exposure to irritating acetic acid vapors (which is precisely why I avoided DT experiments during the Covid era, which happened to coincide with our terrible forest fire smoke issues in the State). Those are some of the "cons".
The "pros" also stand out : a highly tactile process appealing to certain printmakers. A particular purity to the colors difficult to achieve by other means, including the handling of neutrals. One can get hues saturated on opposite sides of the color wheel at the same time. Truly well-made DT prints are in the minority, but when you see one, you never forget it. In the hands of serious practitioner, it can put inkjet gamut to shame. The depth of blacks goes on and on, while inkjet blacks are discontinuous even in sheen. Dyes have a luminous transparency to them, while inks lies on the surface.
But I'd rate the potential of current C-prints more highly than inkjet too, when it comes to gamut and subtle hue distinctions. Most color problems with them aren't due to current RA4 print media itself, but due to the quirks of color neg films themselves.
How many "centuries" have you, or anyone else, actually been around to verify the wild guesstimate or BS marketing hype how many centuries this or that print medium will actually last? I actually have some background dealing with accelerated aging tests, and namely in pigments far more lightfast than any kind of photo dyes; and there are all kinds of loopholes in the testing technology itself, lot's of variables.
I have quantities of both Kodak dyes, indeed a little more convenient to work with due to matching pre-made buffer sets, as well as generic equivalents. None are equal to the pre-incorporated chromolytic Azo dyes of Cibachrome (which of course have certain color repro issues). Perhaps other potentially usable DT dyes are. Even claims about inkjet prints surviving in lovely shape for 200 years is marketing BS, since their inks are a complex mixture including susceptible dyes themselves. Quite a bit of study has gone into this in recent years. But extrapolating very brief test results decades and centuries down the line ... well, none of us are going to be around anyway, to verify this or that questionable claim.
You seem to be well behind the curve in terms of permanence studies. A lot of credit should be given to Wilhelm; but there are all kinds of known flaws in his methodology, which were well recognized as suspect in the pigment industry itself long before him. Aardenburg is way more up to date. I've done a lot of my own real-world testing myself over the past half century at least. Chromogenic prints have dramatically improved in permanence over that time. And Bettina in Germany claims to have developed a superior DT dye set in terms of light permanence, compared to the traditional Kodak version; so it's certainly possible. And I commend you if you think you've produced a superior set too; but commercializing it might not be so simple; you'd still need to find a realistic market.
The holy grail is really more in the realm of finding a process set of transparent nano pigments suitable for those kinds of processes, which is peripheral to DT discussion per se, but something I have been directly involved in sleuthing due to my insider trans-continental industry connections. I know less about dye technology per se. But testing methods are similar.
It's seems you're the only one who thinks the curve of matrix film is fine "as is". Plenty of others have complained about its "horrible toe", which is the apparently the real culprit in terms of complicated highlight repro cures. And if you can't find a far more simplified workaround to your alleged need for multiple highlight masks, there is no commercial future to darkroom style DT printing - all those multiples of sheet film are simply getting too expensive! Yes, curves can be re-profiled digitally, but that's a different story, needing its own kind of investment, with its own quirks.
I don't think Bettina Haneke has published any fading tests on their dyes. Looking at pictures on her instagram page, the cyan looks slightly greener than Kodak but darker, and the magenta is a little yellower than Acid Red 58.
Doesn't seem too odd to me. This post in particular is relevant:You can make these subtle distinctions from an Instagram post?
Doesn't seem too odd to me. This post in particular is relevant:
If you're used to working with these primaries a lot, you recognize very easily if someone uses somewhat different ones. Moreover, the Ig posts in question are pretty good, color-wise. Haneke seems to have quite good studio lighting. Figures, since she's working with color!
Not too long ago, Katayoun Dowlatsahi published a YT video of the Mme. Yevonde work she was printing. Part of that exercise involved figuring out what pigments would have been used back in the day. The video featured some very brief footage of some step tablets printed with the period-correct primaries. It would have been immediately apparent (as it was to me) to anyone working with modern pigments in carbon transfer that those primaries were 'off'. Of course, you generally can't draw any conclusions about where they land exactly on the color wheel, but if references are in view like neutral greys and skin colors, and if you're experienced in handling those primaries, it's often possible and even easy to spot if there's something significantly odd going on with them.I don’t know, if we say one person‘s green looks more cyan than Kodak green, but Kodak green is not in the same image for comparison, well I’m not sure how anyone would know because these are subjective colors displayed on a monitor that may or may not be calibrated, and we are relying upon color memory for that comparison which seems unreliable.
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