R 100 on the left, Superpan 200 / Aviphot 200 on the right side, both straight out of hypo fixer, 10min fix time.
So tell me more how this film can be developed as negatives, I'm all ears.
From a purely theoretical viewpoint, this discussion was on the wrong track from the beginning, suggesting to use bleach before development. An entirely different way exists in using "chromogenic developer" (Jacobsons' "Developing" 18th edition, page 223 onward) and then dissolving/blixing the silver image along with the antihalation layer, leaving the dye negative intact. Just my 2 cents, never tried this myself.
Since last year I have been using the method which a movie film guy named Friedemann Wachsmuth has developed (sorry that the article is in German, maybe Deepl translator might help - please be sure to read all the comments also).Does anyone here have a favorite developer for reversal processing B&W film?
Also, a few side questions: What is your favorite film to use for reversal processing?
This would require sourcing couplers, which isn't a trivial task.
True. This route is pretty much inaccessible for a home user. But there is an accessible but much less elegant, IMO, way. It assumes that the AH layer is made from very fine grained silver that could be selectively blixed (reduced), before developed negative is affected. This means developing and fixing the film normally then applying a dilute reducer and watch the AH layer change density. How wide is this window, I have no idea. I anticipate that this can be done, but a lot of testing is involved (choice of developer, choice of reducer, time, agitation, etc).
This point is interesting. Did you have noticed some softness of the image? Some out-of-focus -ish?- It's not the most capable film out there (lack of revolving power in projection application);
Precisely. It's as if the film is at different focal plane or something.This point is interesting. Did you have noticed some softness of the image? Some out-of-focus -ish?
Me too I've notice that and I was wondering if it was my camera or the slide projector...Precisely. It's as if the film is at different focal plane or something.
I'd ask: why?
Just recently Foma itself has marketed two new negatives film for this pourpose...If you're referring to my mention of Foma R100, one reason you might use it for negatives is if you shoot a 16 mm camera that needs sprocket holes; this is one of only a few black and white stocks available in small quantities for single perf and double perf 16 mm
At those links, Foma doesn't do a good job of making it clear what cine formats they offer, but 16 mm single- and double-perf are the most common.
What's that's not clear?
Only that I didn't see a link that led to that information. It's what I expected, though -- 16 mm single- and double-perf (the formats most submini shooters want), and double-8 (the minimum order for DS8 is probably more than anyone I know would be willing to pay, but from Foma isn't likely enough to put off a budding cinematographer). Added to the R100, that gives Foma a pretty good range of B&W cine films.
@Alessandro Serrao Data sheets is where I'd usually expect to find information like H-D curve, developing times, reciprocity correction, etc. I'd normally expect a list of available formats to be separate from that.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?