Light meter suggestions (I found one I like)

[Chan Tran]

While we're on Minolta meters, does anybody know, if flat diffuser from Autometer V F will fit Flashmeter VI ?

I don't have the Autometer Vf nor the Flashmeter V but I have the Autometer II, Flashmeter III and Flashmeter VI which take the same flat diffuser. So unless Minolta decided to make the V different it should fit.
The only different I find is with the 40 deg reflective attachment. The one for the newer meter has a ring to depress the switch in order to make the correct reading. The old one you have to set the meter to reflective mode.

 

[Chan Tran]

One thing I about the Flashmeter II is that when used as ambient meter you simply set it to cord mode and it makes the accumulation measurement for the time set. For example if you set the shutter speed to 1 sec it would takes 1 sec to make the measurement and thus makes it more sensitive in low light.

 

[Hassasin]

I don't have the Autometer Vf nor the Flashmeter V but I have the Autometer II, Flashmeter III and Flashmeter VI which take the same flat diffuser. So unless Minolta decided to make the V different it should fit.
The only different I find is with the 40 deg reflective attachment. The one for the newer meter has a ring to depress the switch in order to make the correct reading. The old one you have to set the meter to reflective mode.

Thanks. Yeah, looks like it will, at least going by Kenko, they sell flat diffuser specifically saying good for 1100 and 2100, their relative names to what Minolta made in VF & VI.

 

[MCB18]

My Luna Pro F just showed up, and it is in very good condition! Comparing it to my Nikon F meter, it gives similar results, so it seems to be working correctly!

 

[dokko]

I used many meters and all had their pros and cons, but for the past 5 years I've been very happy with a Sekonic L308S, mainly because of it's compact size and low weight since my camera bag is usually too heavy already.

 

[BrianShaw]

My Luna Pro F just showed up, and it is in very good condition! Comparing it to my Nikon F meter, it gives similar results, so it seems to be working correctly!
View attachment 351741

Good for you. Congratulations!

Did you get the manual for also? If not, easy to find on internet.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I’m probably pretty dumb for looking at these old meter’s when my phone can do almost the same things for no cost, but I like the idea of having an actual light meter for no other reason than it makes me happy.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

reason enough

 

[Bill Burk]

Meter calibration lab tools.

- 100 foot lamberts standard (short wooden platform to lift it up just a little).
- Meter holder/positioner (lifts the meter just a little too high so I needed to put the light on a platform)
- Milliammeter
- Adjustable electric source set at 100 milliamps for demonstration
- A pretty good meter feeding its output to wires (used to be how I tested coils).
- A cell tester (connects a Selenium cell to speaker terminals)
- Compass (to measure how strong the magnet is. At about 8-10 inches a meter will pull the needle 20-degrees from north).

That meter on the holder is one of my original ones. It was calibrated to 32 candles per square foot earlier today which made me happy, for the picture it was only reading 25. Maybe it’s just cold.

 

[MCB18]

Good for you. Congratulations!

Did you get the manual for also? If not, easy to find on internet.

I didn’t get a manual with it, but thankfully it is online. Maybe I’ll look for a printed manual, but for now the ODF is fine.

 

[David Lindquist]

Meter calibration lab tools.

- 100 foot lamberts standard (short wooden platform to lift it up just a little).
- Meter holder/positioner (lifts the meter just a little too high so I needed to put the light on a platform)
- Milliammeter
- Adjustable electric source set at 100 milliamps for demonstration
- A pretty good meter feeding its output to wires (used to be how I tested coils).
- A cell tester (connects a Selenium cell to speaker terminals)
- Compass (to measure how strong the magnet is. At about 8-10 inches a meter will pull the needle 20-degrees from north).

That meter on the holder is one of my original ones. It was calibrated to 32 candles per square foot earlier today which made me happy, for the picture it was only reading 25. Maybe it’s just cold.


View attachment 351752

Could you tell us a bit about that "blue box"? Googling "Photo Research Reference Light Source" turned up this: https://www.jadaktech.com/products/photo-research/
Products this company applies the name "Photo Research" to seem to measure light rather than provide a reference standard light source. (I'm wondering if this company acquired the company that made your "blue box" but did not continue to make the "Reference Light Source".

I've thought from time-to-time that it would be nice to have some sort of reference light source , especially one that was variable. Then I could check my light meters not only for constancy (are they reading the same today as they did a year ago) but also linearity. Sort like how I check my shutters for actual speeds and also consistency. Of course it would be nice if such a device cost less than four figures and didn't have to be periodically sent out to a metrology lab for NIST-traceable re-calibration. Probably all an unrealistic hope.

Googling "reference light source" turned up more than I can digest just now.

David

 

[Bill Burk]

Its underlying brand is Kollmorgen and a few turned up on eBay one day and the cost wasn’t scary. This one worked right off the bat.

Now I see the well has run dry. But there is a camera tester from Revini Labs on Kickstarter.

A friend I met trading camera grease made a camera tester. He sold all he made of a few units but made the plans available and might have some parts if you want to do it yourself.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Could you tell us a bit about that "blue box"? Googling "Photo Research Reference Light Source" turned up this: https://www.jadaktech.com/products/photo-research/
Products this company applies the name "Photo Research" to seem to measure light rather than provide a reference standard light source. (I'm wondering if this company acquired the company that made your "blue box" but did not continue to make the "Reference Light Source".

I've thought from time-to-time that it would be nice to have some sort of reference light source , especially one that was variable. Then I could check my light meters not only for constancy (are they reading the same today as they did a year ago) but also linearity. Sort like how I check my shutters for actual speeds and also consistency. Of course it would be nice if such a device cost less than four figures and didn't have to be periodically sent out to a metrology lab for NIST-traceable re-calibration. Probably all an unrealistic hope.

Googling "reference light source" turned up more than I can digest just now.

David

the sun is a perfect reference light source 'sunny 16'.

 

[srtviper15]

There's a huge market that's recently opened for hot-shoe mounted light meters. They are small digital devices with retro styling. Might depend on your location which one you can purchase. The TTArtisans might be the most accessible. The good thing is they are around $100

I did some research into these and did some digging on Reddit and most people say they prefer an iPhone app or a handheld meter and said the hot shoe ones can be finicky.

 

[srtviper15]

Looking for light meters to use with cameras that don’t have in-built ones. I really like the look of the old needle driven ones. but, both the ones I have gotten (Gossen Luna Pros) have had issues that make them unusable. Not sure where to go from here, figuring you guys might have some suggestions. Budget is $100, preferable less.

And no selenium, please!

are you looking for camera mounted or handheld?

 

[Bill Burk]

the sun is a perfect reference light source 'sunny 16'.

Good way to double check calibration. The Kollmorgen should read 30 and ‘sunny 16’ should read 250 on the Weston ‘Light’ scale.

I think it should be easy to get a reference source cobbled together with available electronics.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Meter calibration lab tools.

- 100 foot lamberts standard (short wooden platform to lift it up just a little).
- Meter holder/positioner (lifts the meter just a little too high so I needed to put the light on a platform)
- Milliammeter
- Adjustable electric source set at 100 milliamps for demonstration
- A pretty good meter feeding its output to wires (used to be how I tested coils).
- A cell tester (connects a Selenium cell to speaker terminals)
- Compass (to measure how strong the magnet is. At about 8-10 inches a meter will pull the needle 20-degrees from north).

That meter on the holder is one of my original ones. It was calibrated to 32 candles per square foot earlier today which made me happy, for the picture it was only reading 25. Maybe it’s just cold.


View attachment 351752

I'm lost. What does magnetism have to do with light meters? And is that rock calibrated?

 

[Kodachromeguy]

the sun is a perfect reference light source 'sunny 16'.

Sunny 16 varies by latitude, season, altitude, and atmospheric conditions. But for negative film, it may not make a difference.

 

[GregY]

Sunny 16 varies by latitude, season, altitude, and atmospheric conditions. But for negative film, it may not make a difference.

IMO it does....

 

[Hassasin]

SUNY 16 is OK, possibly as good as any cheap light meter. It will get an image, just perhaps not the one someone wished for. But if nothing else is available, I do think it is good fall back.

 

[Bill Burk]

I'm lost. What does magnetism have to do with light meters? And is that rock calibrated?

I believe Weston factory “calibration” involved matching the coil, cell, dial and magnet. Unfortunately they aimed calibration to be “just right” out of the shop.

Any loss in cell output leads to a lower reading.

My goal is to assemble meter with a bit of overdrive and add a potentiometer to dial it down to standard. Then if it loses sensitivity over time it can be dialed up.

The strength of the magnet varies from meter to meter. Some will pull the compass 20-degrees from north at 13 inches and some at 15 inches.

When there’s more magnetism, the needle travels farther.

I can almost get 1/3 stop higher reading by adding a small supermagnet.

I am going to get one of these calibrated! If not, I’ll melt them down for their gold.

The petrified wood is there because I didn’t think about balance when I made the holder. It keeps the meter from falling over.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I believe Weston factory “calibration” involved matching the coil, cell, dial and magnet. Unfortunately they aimed calibration to be “just right” out of the shop.

Any loss in cell output leads to a lower reading.

My goal is to assemble meter with a bit of overdrive and add a potentiometer to dial it down to standard. Then if it loses sensitivity over time it can be dialed up.

The strength of the magnet varies from meter to meter. Some will pull the compass 20-degrees from north at 13 inches and some at 15 inches.

When there’s more magnetism, the needle travels farther.

I can almost get 1/3 stop higher reading by adding a small supermagnet.

I am going to get one of these calibrated! If not, I’ll melt them down for their gold.

The petrified wood is there because I didn’t think about balance when I made the holder. It keeps the meter from falling over.

When you put that way, it almost make sense. ;-)

 

[Bill Burk]

SUNY 16 is OK, possibly as good as any cheap light meter. It will get an image, just perhaps not the one someone wished for. But if nothing else is available, I do think it is good fall back.

Sunny 16 is absolutely useful when you’re out. If you’re shooting 100 speed film and the meter’s telling you 1/1000 at f/16 you know there’s a problem.

I had a camera do something like that when the battery was dying.

 

[Hassasin]

Sunny 16 is absolutely useful when you’re out. If you’re shooting 100 speed film and the meter’s telling you 1/1000 at f/16 you know there’s a problem.

I had a camera do something like that when the battery was dying.

Wouldn't you know that without Sunny 16 though ? I agree it is not useless, in fact it often enough is the only thing one needs. RIP AA.

 

[Chan Tran]

SUNY 16 is OK, possibly as good as any cheap light meter. It will get an image, just perhaps not the one someone wished for. But if nothing else is available, I do think it is good fall back.

Sunny 16 is very good I found it's better than 1/3 stop accuracy. The problem with Sunny 16 is that it only works for that condition. Sunny, no cloud. Any other conditions it's not sunny 16.