I don't get it. If the ground which is darker requires let's say 1/30 at f/8 and it's shady, even if it's sunny, the sky's going to blow out needing many stops less. At least with chromes. With negative color or BW, sure you can let the sky where it falls.
Except in your avatar.
Brian Thanks for hanging in there. I made a mistake. The meter I have but rarely use is a Gossen Luna Pro F. See the picture how the globe is in the front. How can you face the dome to yourself and read the meter? Either it faces the subject or faces up, but then the globe read all around.
All hand-held light meters are essentially "dumb" devices. They are designed to do one thing, and one thing only (measure light intensity), but they can do that very well. Hand-held light meters have only one metering cell, and that cell can't see any image, just an average light value. It's just like a bathroom scale, except it's measuring light intensity instead of weight. It has no idea if it's measuring a human or a bucket of nails. Since the 70's, most SLR film cameras had more than one metering cell in the camera. This was done to get more information about the scene that was being photographed, so decisions could be made about how to adjust exposure. For example, center-weighted metering meant that more emphasis was placed on the cell that read the light from the center of the image, rather than the light readings from cells at the outer edges. This made these cameras "smarter" in terms of getting a good exposure more of the time. Into the late 80's, Nikon introduced matrix metering, which brought several metering cells into the camera, which allowed them to use complex algorithms to handle all kinds of scene scenarios to provide even better exposure results. All the other camera manufacturers came up with similar systems. At that time, 35mm cameras were so sophisticated that it would have been a backward step to use a hand-held meter.
Today, with digital cameras, every pixel becomes a metering cell. You literally have millions of metering cells in the camera, and that's how you can get fancy histograms and clipping alerts. That's a physical impossibility with a hand-held meter with a single metering cell.
These days, hand-held meters are still useful for cameras that have no meters (large format cameras, old cameras), or for cameras that have a single meter cell (better light sensitivity and possibly better accuracy with hand-held). Digital, in terms of hand-held light meters, just means that the display output is digital, it still has only a single metering cell. It still can't do anything at all like what a digital camera can do.
In the "old days", pro photographers used Polaroid shots to confirm their exposure was correct, and if not, adjust accordingly. You can do the same thing with a digital camera today, and it's much cheaper than using Polaroid. What you're doing with the digital camera to test exposure, makes perfect sense. By correlating your exposure on the digital camera, with your film camera, you should be able to get good results more easily than with a hand-held meter.
Every hand-held meter is designed to give the appropriate exposure for 18% gray average scenes. That works well for many scenes, but it's the photographer that needs to know when that doesn't apply, and adjust accordingly. The hand-held meter is still "dumb", and can't tell when the scene being shot doesn't meet the "normal" 18% gray average.
All hand-held light meters are essentially "dumb" devices. ...
In the "old days", pro photographers used Polaroid shots to confirm their exposure was correct, and if not, adjust accordingly. You can do the same thing with a digital camera today, and it's much cheaper than using Polaroid. What you're doing with the digital camera to test exposure, makes perfect sense. By correlating your exposure on the digital camera, with your film camera, you should be able to get good results more easily than with a hand-held meter.
Every hand-held meter is designed to give the appropriate exposure for 18% gray average scenes. That works well for many scenes, but it's the photographer that needs to know when that doesn't apply, and adjust accordingly. The hand-held meter is still "dumb", and can't tell when the scene being shot doesn't meet the "normal" 18% gray average.
I remember there being someone here awhile back, a real expert in his own mind, who insisted that the proper use of an incident meter was to position it at the camera and pointed toward the subject. And no matter how many people questioned this assertion and pointed out his error, he insisted he was right over and over again until a point of critical mass was reached and he kind of just had to slink away. Remember that guy? His avatar was the same as yours.But some meter users are dumber than others.
Polaroid cameras can litter the countryside better than digital or other film cameras with the pealed off paper.
I tested the app, D200, and SRT101 in a standardized way as was suggested. As well as I could. Multiple apertures and shutter speeds.
The app and D200 returned similar or identical values. The SRT didn’t meter remotely close to those.
The SRT101 meter is supposed to be calibrated for a #357 battery. Using a #675 hearing aid battery changes the reading a bit, but not significantly.
I ordered the Vivitar 45 from John Titterington. I’ll see how that compares to the SRT meter.
The proof in the pudding will be to get the film developed from the SRT101 and see how it looks.
I remember there being someone here awhile back, a real expert in his own mind, who insisted that the proper use of an incident meter was to position it at the camera and pointed toward the subject. And no matter how many people questioned this assertion and pointed out his error, he insisted he was right over and over again until a point of critical mass was reached and he kind of just had to slink away. Remember that guy? His avatar was the same as yours.
Brian Thanks for hanging in there. I made a mistake. The meter I have but rarely use is a Gossen Luna Pro F. See the picture how the globe is in the front. How can you face the dome to yourself and read the meter? Either it faces the subject or faces up, but then the globe read all around.
I remember there being someone here awhile back, a real expert in his own mind, who insisted that the proper use of an incident meter…..
See the picture how the globe is in the front. How can you face the dome to yourself and read the meter? Either it faces the subject or faces up, but then the globe read all around.
It’s the same as my LunaSix3. The globe slides away for a reflective reading. For incident, slide over the sensor, stand with back to the subject, point the meter to the horizon, and look down for the reading. I assume that you know that.
Using a digital light meter rather than an analog one does not negate 100% Analog/Traditional. Does one have to use an analog thermometer in the developer or could a digital one be OK? Do I have to order film by mail rather than using a digital computer and the web?
The Administrators can confirm or reject this point.
I think I see your “confusion”. You must either move to the subject location or move to a place where the light is representative of the light at the subject and point the meter back at the camera.
So, the OP asked a simple question of is the phone app acceptable for metering. The actual question was answered pages ago.
After pages of discussion like this, my decision to stop using light meters AT ALL looks better and better !
I don't understand the 5 lens presents. Could you expand?
...I have shot over 100,000 slides very successfully, many with Minolta slr from SR-7 to X700 and never needed to look the numbers on the morning's cereal box top, while playing the slide trombone, clipping my toe nails and picking my nose.
What I posted works for slides as will as prints. You are making thing much too hard. A good slide film will keep the skies as they are meant to be. If you want to use a GND, fine, but there is no need to count the number of fairies on the head of a pin while juggling bowling pins at the same time. I have shot over 100,000 slides very successfully, many with Minolta slr from SR-7 to X700 and never needed to look the numbers on the morning's cereal box top, while playing the slide trombone, clipping my toe nails and picking my nose.
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