Lens suggestion for Pentax K1000?

[titrisol]

The 50s are legendary, in my order of preference
K 55/1.8; M 50/1.7; K 50/1.2; 50/1.4 (any version)
From the same vintage are the K-series (SMC lenses with bayonet)
K 28/3.5
K 85/1.8

Then came the M series of which
M 20/4.0
M 28/2.0
M 85/2.0

 

[warden]

I meant the 50mm f/2 K mount not the screw mount. The screw mount are good. I believe they made the 50mm f/2 K mount just for the K1000. (by the way I think the K1000 is not of good quality either)

Any quality issues that would show up on a print? (Like film flatness issues or the like?)

 

[removed account4]

If it's the 50 or 55mm that came with the camera when new, it would be worth it to send it in along with the body for a cla. Cleaning aperture blades is a simple job for a tech. There were very few "bad" 50mm lenses from any manufacturer. Sure, some are better than others, but it's generally difficult to tell the difference between any of them in a print.

$500 buys a lot of K lenses. Take your pick and buy every focal length from 28 to 50mm.

took the words right out of my fingers...
I've had and used my K1000 since I got it new in like 1980 love that camera..
definitely worth getting it CLA'd. and look at places like KEH for other asahi lenses, they are all good...

 

[Paul Howell]

Any quality issues that would show up on a print? (Like film flatness issues or the like?)

The K is updated K mount version of the Spotmatic and a stripped down KM, the early bodies were made in Japan, later in China. Somewhere I have a Japan version of the K1000, I dont recall of any issues with the K1000 keeping film flat. Just remember that the K1000 was a entry level body, does not the build quality of top level cameras. In terms of lens, I got my first Spotmatic in 1967, it was used, got it at a Pawn Shop in Long Beach Ca when Long Beach was a Navy town, came with 50 1.9, 35 3.5 and a 135 3.5, over the years I added most of the M42 lens, from 24mm to r2.5 to 500, I still have the Spotmatic, shoot with once or twice a year, almost 60 years. I use K and M42 film and digital bodies, all will resolve Tmax 100. As a working PJ I moved to Nikon as I needed a motor drive, Pentax glass is as good Nikon, the lens I would give an edge is Konica and some Minolta versions. In addition to Pentax made glass there are many other makers who also made excllent lens in K mount, Chinon, Cosina, Rioch, along with 3rd party lens, Vivitar S1 made some of the glass on the market some really fast glass.

 

[Autonerd]

K mount

• Focal length from 28mm to 50mm
• Interesting rendering, or fast, or something, I don't know
• Modern and vintage are both fine
• Don't want a zoom lens
• $500 or less

What say you?

No need to spend that much! I would start with the ubiquitous SMC Pentax-M 50mm/f1.7. You can buy them all day for $30 -- not because they are bad but because Pentax made a gajillion of them. I have so many I suspect them of multiplying on their own.

For a 28, I've been using a Vivitar 28/2.8 since the early 1990s (one of the first lenses I bought). Stops down to f/22 so you don't even have to bother to focus. Another $30-50ish lens and I think it'll work just fine for street photography. Quality isn't perfect but neither is street photography.

You might want to consider something long-ish. As a kid I bought a Vivitar 70-210 that I almost never used. Someone gave me an SMC Pentax-M 80-210 and I really love it -- seems pretty good for an old Pentax zoom, and it's nice and compact for its focal length. I think you can find them for around $25-$50.

I also just bought an SMC-Pentax M 135/3.5 as part of a $20 lens bundle. Only tried it once and haven't developed the pics -- it's not a FL I used a lot but I am intrigued. I got a killer deal on mine but they still sell cheap, $25-$40.

My next purchase will probably be a genuine Pentax 28, they go for around $60-$75 I think.

If you haven't figured it out, you are VERY luck to be in the Pentax family. They make excellent quality lenses at very reasonable prices. You're unlikely to spend your $500 budget.

For that matter you might want to pick up a backup body. Pentax KX is a more fully-featured version of the K1000 that sells for less $$ (blame K1000 nostalgia). Ricoh and Sears cameras are also great K-mount backup bodies. I recommend the Ricoh XR-1/Sears K1000 (mechanical), XR-2/Sears KS Auto (electronic w/ auto mode), KR-10/Sears KSX (lower-featured XR-2), KR-10 Super/KSX Super (updated KR-10, worse meter display and hair-trigger shutter). I own all of these (well, about to own an XR-1) and they are great cameras -- the KS Auto/XR-2 is actually one of my favorites and I'm looking for a second.

As you can guess I'm a hard-core Pentaxian. I have other 35mm SLRs I love (Nikon FG and N8008, Minolta XG-E, 400si, Maxxum 5) and others I don't love so much (Nikon FE, Pentax MX) and the Pentaxes (and Ricohs) take pictures as good as, if not better than, any of 'em.

 

[warden]

Just remember that the K1000 was a entry level body, does not the build quality of top level cameras.

Yeah it's apparent that it is an entry level camera, just wanted to see if there was a specific failure that Chan Tran was referring to. It's clear that the camera is not a Leica, but then it wasn't designed to be. This camera was purchased by my dad in 1985 and has never been serviced so I figure it's due. The meter has stopped working so that can be attended to during the CLA.

Actually he purchased two of these cameras, one for me and one for him; I was entering design school and an SLR was required. When he was shopping for me he was having such fun that he got one for himself. My K1000 worked perfectly throughout my college career and beyond but was destroyed in a house flood. I moved on to other brands after that but have always had a soft spot for the K1000 so I'm looking forward to putting his old camera to good use.

 

[warden]

No need to spend that much! I would start with the ubiquitous SMC Pentax-M 50mm/f1.7. You can buy them all day for $30 -- not because they are bad but because Pentax made a gajillion of them. I have so many I suspect them of multiplying on their own.

For a 28, I've been using a Vivitar 28/2.8 since the early 1990s (one of the first lenses I bought). Stops down to f/22 so you don't even have to bother to focus. Another $30-50ish lens and I think it'll work just fine for street photography. Quality isn't perfect but neither is street photography.

You might want to consider something long-ish. As a kid I bought a Vivitar 70-210 that I almost never used. Someone gave me an SMC Pentax-M 80-210 and I really love it -- seems pretty good for an old Pentax zoom, and it's nice and compact for its focal length. I think you can find them for around $25-$50.

I also just bought an SMC-Pentax M 135/3.5 as part of a $20 lens bundle. Only tried it once and haven't developed the pics -- it's not a FL I used a lot but I am intrigued. I got a killer deal on mine but they still sell cheap, $25-$40.

My next purchase will probably be a genuine Pentax 28, they go for around $60-$75 I think.

If you haven't figured it out, you are VERY luck to be in the Pentax family. They make excellent quality lenses at very reasonable prices. You're unlikely to spend your $500 budget.

For that matter you might want to pick up a backup body. Pentax KX is a more fully-featured version of the K1000 that sells for less $$ (blame K1000 nostalgia). Ricoh and Sears cameras are also great K-mount backup bodies. I recommend the Ricoh XR-1/Sears K1000 (mechanical), XR-2/Sears KS Auto (electronic w/ auto mode), KR-10/Sears KSX (lower-featured XR-2), KR-10 Super/KSX Super (updated KR-10, worse meter display and hair-trigger shutter). I own all of these (well, about to own an XR-1) and they are great cameras -- the KS Auto/XR-2 is actually one of my favorites and I'm looking for a second.

As you can guess I'm a hard-core Pentaxian. I have other 35mm SLRs I love (Nikon FG and N8008, Minolta XG-E, 400si, Maxxum 5) and others I don't love so much (Nikon FE, Pentax MX) and the Pentaxes (and Ricohs) take pictures as good as, if not better than, any of 'em.

Great info, thanks!

I'll add to the OP with a request for CLA techs for this system.

 

[Autonerd]

=. This camera was purchased by my dad in 1985 and has never been serviced so I figure it's due. The meter has stopped working so that can be attended to during the CLA.

You have changed batteries, right? The K1000 has no off switch for the meter, so leaving the lens cap on will drain the battery. My grandfather bought my KX in 1975-ish and I still haven't had it CLAd. I understand THE place to go is Eric, www.pentaxs.com. HIs prices are very reasonable.

Aaron

 

[warden]

You have changed batteries, right? The K1000 has no off switch for the meter, so leaving the lens cap on will drain the battery. My grandfather bought my KX in 1975-ish and I still haven't had it CLAd. I understand THE place to go is Eric, www.pentaxs.com. HIs prices are very reasonable.

Aaron

I did change the batteries and keep a lens cap on the lens so I think something is amiss, unless the new batteries I installed were duds. I'll check out Eric, thanks.

 

[Chan Tran]

Yeah it's apparent that it is an entry level camera, just wanted to see if there was a specific failure that Chan Tran was referring to. It's clear that the camera is not a Leica, but then it wasn't designed to be. This camera was purchased by my dad in 1985 and has never been serviced so I figure it's due. The meter has stopped working so that can be attended to during the CLA.

Actually he purchased two of these cameras, one for me and one for him; I was entering design school and an SLR was required. When he was shopping for me he was having such fun that he got one for himself. My K1000 worked perfectly throughout my college career and beyond but was destroyed in a house flood. I moved on to other brands after that but have always had a soft spot for the K1000 so I'm looking forward to putting his old camera to good use.

It's certainly not a Leica but it's not a KM, KX either.

 

[John Koehrer]

Just remember that the K1000 was a entry level body, does not the build quality of top level cameras.

It's funny how many Pentax users will say the K1000 has better build quality than KM or KX b0dies which is IMO just silly.
They came off the same line using mostly the same parts (except for additional feature parts) with the KX I believe
you also got a SBC meter cell.
The poopy stuff came in when manufacturing moved to China when nylon or "resin" gearing was introduced to the camera.

 

[Paul Howell]

My K1000 is a Japan model, still fully functional, at least was last time I used it, seems to be not to be as well built as the KX, as I've never had it apart cannot say if it is made from the same parts used in the KM, but the build is better than than an ME, or a SF1.

 

[Pioneer]

took the words right out of my fingers...
I've had and used my K1000 since I got it new in like 1980 love that camera..
definitely worth getting it CLA'd. and look at places like KEH for other asahi lenses, they are all good...

Bought mine used at a pawn shop in Reno back in 1984 complete with the M 50mm f2. Both of them are still going strong and they get used a lot. Like John, I love mine. It would be the last camera I ever get rid of.

I can't say that I have ever noticed any quality problems with either of them, either in the equipment or in the prints. The A series lenses had some problems but not the early M series. But hey, I am only a sample of one, so it is pretty hard to make a strong case either way.

However, I do find it interesting that these cameras were used by several generations of students who were learning photograph and they seemed to hold up pretty well even while being used by inexperienced young students. Pretty good for "low" quality gear.

The term "entry level" may mean something with equipment sold today but all it meant when the K1000 came out was that it was missing a few of the features the more expensive cameras came with. It did not mean they were built to a lower standard.

 

[Disconnekt]

I have the SMC Pentax 55mm f1.8 ("K" series lens) and a Ricoh XR Rikenon 35mm f2.8 and like em both.
Am selling em though to fund other lens purchases.

PS. Pentax Forums has a lens review section you can check out reviews for any lens that catch your interest.

 

[warden]

It's certainly not a Leica but it's not a KM, KX either.

Gotcha. I didn't know what a KM or KX was so I looked it up. They're all inexpensive SLRs but you're saying that the K1000 is the basic model, not that there is a problem that will show up on images.

 

[mawz]

The difference between a KM, KX and early K1000 is features, not build or reliability.

As to lenses, I second the recommendation for the 35/3.5, it's a tiny gem and has been since the day that design was released in the early 60's. I've always preferred the 55's or the 50/1.4 for normals.

The 28/3.5 is also excellent. Do note it was redesigned for the K version, it's not the same lens as the last M42 version and is in fact better. This is probably the best 28mm that Pentax did.

 

[Chan Tran]

The difference between a KM, KX and early K1000 is features, not build or reliability.

As to lenses, I second the recommendation for the 35/3.5, it's a tiny gem and has been since the day that design was released in the early 60's. I've always preferred the 55's or the 50/1.4 for normals.

The 28/3.5 is also excellent. Do note it was redesigned for the K version, it's not the same lens as the last M42 version and is in fact better. This is probably the best 28mm that Pentax did.

I have 2 KX's and 2 K1000. The build quality of the K1000 are poorer. When new the KX was significantly more expensive but on the used market many would pay more for the K1000 as so many people heard about it and not the KX.

 

[Huss]

The A series lenses had some problems but not the early M series. But hey, I am only a sample of one, so it is pretty hard to make a strong case either way.

The 50 1.7 SMC-A has terrible build quality. I read about issues with the aperture ring, and how it binds up and eventually can seize. But of course I ignored that... yup happened to mine that I just bought. Luckily it had a return policy.
No issues with my 1.4 or f2 versions, just the 1.7.

 

[Pioneer]

I have 2 KX's and 2 K1000. The build quality of the K1000 are poorer. When new the KX was significantly more expensive but on the used market many would pay more for the K1000 as so many people heard about it and not the KX.

You must have copies of the later K1000s after their manufacture moved out of Japan and Pentax started trying to cut costs. The top and bottom plates were changed from metal to plastic and I believe the rewind fork was also changed to plastic. There may have been some other changes. EDIT - Remember, they started building that camera when everything was made from metal and they were still building it when even Leica was adding plastic to their cameras.

I have examples of all the K models with the exception of the K2 DMD and there is no difference in quality between any of them that I have been able to find. The feature set is certainly different on all of them, but that's it.

All of them are very nice cameras though I don't care for the shutter speed controls on the K2. Mine required service to free the shutter speed/exposure compensation ring. I actually prefer my Spotmatic ESII to the K2. I think that today the KX is actually the preferred model by most Pentax fans.

Interestingly the KM, which was actually the entry level model when the K cameras were first introduced, is also very nice. And because it was not used in school photography programs you can often pick them up in very nice condition as they suffered far less abuse than any of the other models. I have a very nice KM that doesn't appear to have been used at all.

However, I don't think you would actually be disappointed when using any of them.

 

[Pioneer]

Gotcha. I didn't know what a KM or KX was so I looked it up. They're all inexpensive SLRs but you're saying that the K1000 is the basic model, not that there is a problem that will show up on images.

Nope. No difference in the images. No one is going to be able to tell if your pictures were taken with a K1000 or some other metal, manual, mechanical SLR from that era.

But hey, they are cheap as chips on ebay. Pick up few and try them all!

 

[Autonerd]

Gotcha. I didn't know what a KM or KX was so I looked it up. They're all inexpensive SLRs but you're saying that the K1000 is the basic model, not that there is a problem that will show up on images.

The original K lineup in 1975 was KM (basically a Spotmatic F with new K lens mount, CdS meter, DoF preview, self-timer); KX (added match-needle meter display, SPD meter with larger range and off switch, greater ASA range), and K2 (added electronically-controlled shutter, aperture-priority automatic mode, manual speeds down to 8 sec (from 1 sec in KM/KX)).

Pentax introduced the smaller M-series in 1976, and there was no entry-level manual model, so they created the K1000 by decontenting the KM, removing the DOF preview and self-timer. The rest of the Ks were killed off after '77, but the K1000 stayed in production for twenty years.

I don't know that build quality was any worse, but as I understand it thy did cheapen some parts and move assembly to China at some point during the production run.

We used to refer to the K1000 as the Volkswagen Beetle of cameras but I suppose these days it's more of a Nissan Versa. Nowadays they command high-ish prices because of nostalgia, and they are perfectly good cameras, but truth be told the KM, KX and K2 are more fully-featured cameras that usually sell for less money. I own a KX and still think it's one of the best all-mechanical 35mm SLRs cameras from that era. Heavy but easy to use. I'd take mine over a Nikon FM any day, and I prefer it to the much-loved MX.

In terms of image quality, the other Ks have some creative advantages, but if you took the same photo with a K1000 and any other K, using the same lens and under the same conditions, they would look identical.

Aaron

 

[Vonder]

Thanks for that name - I forgot to ask for options for the CLA.

I am not a fan of Eric Hendrickson. Last interaction I had with him was sloppy, unprofessional work. Sent a camera in for CLA and repair of the non-working film counter. Sent it back - never fixed the film counter. I'm old. When a guy takes 2x the time to do the fix I asked for, it *matters*.

 

[Huss]

I understand THE place to go is Eric, www.pentaxs.com. HIs prices are very reasonable.

Once upon a time maybe. Recently had a very bad experience with him and my Pentax LX. "He" or whoever he has work on stuff, broke the mirror lock up during service. Got the camera back mentioning this, also mentioning no parts available to fix it - which he just broke - and no effort to compensate for damaging it.

 

[Pioneer]

Eric has always done good work in the past but the last time I had any work done was by DAG on a Spottie. Did a darn nice job as well. I suspect there are probably lots of technicians who can handle work on a Pentax. I know that Eric has been looking to retire for quite some time so I do believe, that he is trying to train someone, or more than one someone, to take his place.

The LX itself is a more difficult camera though. Not being a tech myself I have no real evidence for this, but I suspect it is a far more complex camera to work on than most.

 

[johnha]

I did change the batteries and keep a lens cap on the lens so I think something is amiss, unless the new batteries I installed were duds. I'll check out Eric, thanks.

Check the battery has been installed the right way round - it is easy to do and different Pentax cameras require different polarities.

As mentioned, the K1000 was more 'feature light' than 'less well built', even after the switch to plastic top & bottom plates (and therefore lighter weight), they were still very well built cameras. Even the late ones from the late '80s were still the best built camera you could buy for less than £200 (many wondered how Pentax managed to keep that price down for a mechanical SLR).

The lack of DoF wouldn't really worry me (only really useful for visualising the effect of some filters/masks in such a small format), the lack of a self-timer significantly reduces the complexity of the shutter release mechanism, and 40-50 years down the road, means it's something that can't jam the shutter if it breaks (which I've seen happen on other similar cameras). As for the KM, KX comparison, the KX is a really well specified camera (and I prefer it to an MX), but almost all K1000s are younger than almost all KM/KXs. Many K1000s have been heavily abused and still keep clicking, however many haven't and are now only 30 years old (as opposed to 45).