Leica M6 Meter Repair: What's the latest?
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- Thread starter Arthurwg
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Considering it’s taking Leica up to six months or more to replace a faulty pressure plate, any meter repair may be just over the horizon. You might want to take a look at Leica Users Forum International, I remember seeing a thread where someone mentioned they had been in contact with Leica.
I contacted one repair shop which in turn contacted Leica after the new M6 was introduced. The new part can't be retrofitted and Leica still won't provide parts to unofficial repairers. Based on that, I would say the introduction of the new M6 changes nothing about repair-ability of the old M6s with non-functioning meters.
Reach out to DAG in WI. Arguably the foremost Leica repairman. I've used him for years for the very occasional service need.
Leica hope to be able to offer repair of old M6 (classics) meters based on the new M6 meter circuits - Leica themselves has stated that much, but also that it is not as simple as it may sound.
When they'll start (or ultimately - if) is not yet determined (AFAIK), but I am sure it will be well advertised as this would be an unheard-of service on a 40 year old camera - it should hold some marketing potential.
My fear is that is will be a factory service only and linked with their outrageously expensive CLA's.
When they'll start (or ultimately - if) is not yet determined (AFAIK), but I am sure it will be well advertised as this would be an unheard-of service on a 40 year old camera - it should hold some marketing potential.
My fear is that is will be a factory service only and linked with their outrageously expensive CLA's.
Source?
Jason Schneider’s quotes from Leica around the release of the new M6.
Well, I asked Will Van Manen of Kamera Service (quoting the same statements at the release of the new M6) if/when M6 circuit boards will be available. They asked Leica about it and got answer that new parts can't be used in old M6, neither TTL or Classic. Not that they would supply 3rd party repair services with electronic parts...
If Leica will indeed offer old M6 circuit board replacements at some point it will obviously involve some other modifications to accommodate the new meter/circuit board and display in viewfinder. I would be very surprised if such work and parts + obligatory CLA would cost less than M6 is worth.
If Leica will indeed offer old M6 circuit board replacements at some point it will obviously involve some other modifications to accommodate the new meter/circuit board and display in viewfinder. I would be very surprised if such work and parts + obligatory CLA would cost less than M6 is worth.
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@narwal10444 ,Hey @Arthurwg do you still have any 2x3 slotted film holders for a graflex back? I would dm but the forum is not letting me. I have been looking forever for one. Thanks
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Hey @Arthurwg do you still have any 2x3 slotted film holders for a graflex back? I would dm but the forum is not letting me. I have been looking forever for one. Thanks
Not sure. I'll look.
Thanks so much
I had thought my M6 TTL meter had gone south on me. I sent it to DAG https://www.dagcamera.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html and he spotted a cold solder joint or loose connection (can't recall for certain) that was the culprit. Simple fix and a good excuse for a CLA while apart. I felt very fortunate to have it whole again.
I've read onto the web that both the old Non-TTL and TTL Leica M6 versions can't being repaired, due to the luck of spare parts of the light meter. Only possible for the 2022 5500 EUR new "Leica" Leitz M6, go figure. :-(
Same story, i've heard a long time ago. This, and whileas the M6 is uber-pushed by Hipsters, also not the best build quality of M series, pushed me a away to save my pennies for a M6. And i do know about the M6 since 86, though.
I decided (after some 10 years of using the M6 without a meter) to send it to Amsterdam Camera Repairs to have their new meter circuit fitted.
It took a bit longer than expected since it needed a trip back to correct a problem (apparently only my camera of the entire first batch exhibited the problem (V2 of the replacement part now solves the unlikely problem that affected the installation of the V1 part in my camera)), but I'm happy to say that M6s obviously won't necessarily need to spend their old age pretending they are M4s.
It took a bit longer than expected since it needed a trip back to correct a problem (apparently only my camera of the entire first batch exhibited the problem (V2 of the replacement part now solves the unlikely problem that affected the installation of the V1 part in my camera)), but I'm happy to say that M6s obviously won't necessarily need to spend their old age pretending they are M4s.
Great news. Would you mind sharing the expense of the project?
At ACR you can only have it fixed as part of a complete CLA and then the price is 600 EUR w/o VAT (so in my case it was 726 EUR, since I'm from EU).
As far as I understood, the new part will be available to other repair shops as well so you might get it fixed cheaper (without complete CLA?) and/or faster somewhere else.
(no affiliation to ACR, of course, this was the first time I used them)
As far as I understood, the new part will be available to other repair shops as well so you might get it fixed cheaper (without complete CLA?) and/or faster somewhere else.
(no affiliation to ACR, of course, this was the first time I used them)
Mine was produced in 1985, so the early first series, produced in Wetzlar. Hopefully you have one of the later ones with better (better range and durability) OEM meter. I think most of the problematic ones are from the original Wetzlar series.
"the old Non-TTL and TTL Leica M6 versions can't be repaired, due to the lack of spare parts of the light meter" Yashica
AND
"can the M6 non-TTL meter be repaired?" Arthutwg
Well, some of us still have *the main printed flexible circuit assembly in stock (a small LED fpc & the photocell unit completes the metering system). -
BUT, these 'parts' are rarely needed
The only reasons I ever needed to replace the classic M6 meter circuit (M6TTL but for the factory, was never available), was for either massive battery leakage corrosion, incompetent tampering or water damage (The flex is basically military spec ; very reliable).
Plus, the M6 classic meter can easily be calibrated (Not so for the M6TTL, but no worries, it never requires adjustment).
Apart from those physical issues, MOST every metering problem is caused by the film door ASA dial Variable Resistor (not the three gold contacts on the inside door).
AND
"can the M6 non-TTL meter be repaired?" Arthutwg
Well, some of us still have *the main printed flexible circuit assembly in stock (a small LED fpc & the photocell unit completes the metering system). -
BUT, these 'parts' are rarely needed
The only reasons I ever needed to replace the classic M6 meter circuit (M6TTL but for the factory, was never available), was for either massive battery leakage corrosion, incompetent tampering or water damage (The flex is basically military spec ; very reliable).
Plus, the M6 classic meter can easily be calibrated (Not so for the M6TTL, but no worries, it never requires adjustment).
Apart from those physical issues, MOST every metering problem is caused by the film door ASA dial Variable Resistor (not the three gold contacts on the inside door).
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Could you kindly explain a little further? The film door dial has always seemed to me a weak point in the design. If it becomes faulty, what is the usual cause; and is it repairable, or replaceable?"the old Non-TTL and TTL Leica M6 versions can't be repaired, due to the lack of spare parts of the light meter" Yashica
AND
"can the M6 non-TTL meter be repaired?" Arthutwg
Well, some of us still have *the main printed flexible circuit assembly in stock (a small LED fpc & the photocell unit completes the metering system). -
BUT, these 'parts' are rarely needed
The only reasons I ever needed to replace the classic M6 meter circuit (M6TTL but for the factory, was never available), was for either massive battery leakage corrosion, incompetent tampering or water damage (The flex is basically military spec ; very reliable).
Plus, the M6 classic meter can easily be calibrated (Not so for the M6TTL, but no worries, it never requires adjustment).
Apart from those physical issues, MOST every metering problem is caused by the film door ASA dial Variable Resistor (not the three gold contacts on the inside door).
"what is the usual cause; and is it repairable"? snusmumriken
Cause? When pushing the ASA center disc, the contacts become exposed to the outside elements (salty, dirty, dusty, sticky, wet fingers etc.).
This introduces sporadic connection/shorting to the Main flex inside the camera body (Meter issues ; i.e. Only one LED lights up or LED flickering etc.).
Repairable yes, unless destroyed by impact or water damage etc. the film door when carefully disassembled (Remove door from body, remove the four travel limit screws holding down the pressure plate and finally the small screws securing the plastic VR holder). The fairly heavy spring pushing back on the BRUSH disc (the one your finger pushes when one changes the ASA setting), is then loose. Now, without removing the three wires, the disc, Brush and VR surfaces can then be cleaned of contamination (using Naphtha light solvent). After-which a thin film of *DeoxIT FaderLube (Green) should be applied (Contact Electrolube for VR's).
*DeoxIT SHIELD (Blue) can also be substituted (2nd choice).
Cause? When pushing the ASA center disc, the contacts become exposed to the outside elements (salty, dirty, dusty, sticky, wet fingers etc.).
This introduces sporadic connection/shorting to the Main flex inside the camera body (Meter issues ; i.e. Only one LED lights up or LED flickering etc.).
Repairable yes, unless destroyed by impact or water damage etc. the film door when carefully disassembled (Remove door from body, remove the four travel limit screws holding down the pressure plate and finally the small screws securing the plastic VR holder). The fairly heavy spring pushing back on the BRUSH disc (the one your finger pushes when one changes the ASA setting), is then loose. Now, without removing the three wires, the disc, Brush and VR surfaces can then be cleaned of contamination (using Naphtha light solvent). After-which a thin film of *DeoxIT FaderLube (Green) should be applied (Contact Electrolube for VR's).
*DeoxIT SHIELD (Blue) can also be substituted (2nd choice).
Very many thanks. That's tremendously reassuring to have in mind in case mine ever fails.
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