Kodachrome as B&W Neg

Radost said:

I have seen reports the Kodak formula works the best.

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has there been a change!!!! Kodachrome is on the shelf again ?????

joho said:

has there been a change!!!! Kodachrome is on the shelf again ?????

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Afraid not, this thread is discussing processing Kodachrome as B&W film; Kodachrome the famous colour film is dead, but some of us are shooting as B&W.

It was, in essence, B&W film with the colour couplers added during the processing, so shooting it minus the colour development process isn't that far fetched.

ozphoto said:

Afraid not, this thread is discussing processing Kodachrome as B&W film; Kodachrome the famous colour film is dead, but some of us are shooting as B&W.

It was, in essence, B&W film with the colour couplers added during the processing, so shooting it minus the colour development process isn't that far fetched.

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I had that _wow it is back ??? too bad.

joho said:

I had that _wow it is back ??? too bad.

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Yes, it is sad that it's no longer in production, these days we can only shoot expired Kodachrome, and that is being sold at some ridiculous prices indeed!

ozphoto said:

we can only shoot expired Kodachrome, and that is being sold at some ridiculous prices indeed!

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And I don't get why -- any attempt to get any kind of color image out of it is highly experimental, and there are lots of cheaper B&W films.

Donald Qualls said:

And I don't get why -- any attempt to get any kind of color image out of it is highly experimental, and there are lots of cheaper B&W films.

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Oh @Donald Qualls I agree with you 1000%!! The only reason I'm going to be shooting some is because I was lucky enough to receive some from a member here, when I needed 828 spools. The batch they sent include 2 rolls of 35mm as well - had these not been included, forget it.

There is no way in the universe that I will pay the ridiculous prices being asked for a film that is, in a nutshell, completely useless and let's be honest, not collectable at all.

But there are those who are happy to stump up $$$ for rolls of the stuff and who are we to question the reasons behind doing so?
For now, I'll relive the grand days of 25ASA, 64ASA and 200ASA Kodachrome as I look at my shots from the 80s and 90s - good times indeed and I was very sad when it was announced this wonderful film would no longer be manufactured.

你好，我在中文论坛网站（K14）上发现了一个有趣的食谱希望它对你们有帮助，我的英语不够好，无法翻译，所以我使用了谷歌翻译。

Process Temperature (°C) Time (min)
1 Pre-firm film 24 3
2 Rinse 20～24 0.5
3 First display 24 4
4 Stop display 22～24 3
5 Rinse 20～24 10
6 Red exposure
7 Cyan developing 24 10
8 Black and white development 22 to 24 2
9 Stopping 22 to 24 2
10 Water wash 20 to 24 10
11 Blue exposure
12 Yellow developing 24 14
13 Black and white development 22 to 24 2
14 Stopping down 22 to 24 2
15 Wash 20 to 24 10
16 Green exposure
17 Magenta development 24 10
18 Stopping down 22 to 24 2
19 Washing 20～24 10
20 Bleaching 22 to 24 5
21 Washing 20～24 10
22 Fixing 22～24 5
23 Wash 20 to 24 10
24 Stabilisation 22 to 24 1
25 Drying

Notes
1. Red exposure:
必须使用与胶片感光度相对应的红色滤光片（或滤镜）在红色感光层上进行反向曝光，红色感光层涂在底层，即在片基的上面，所以红色曝光时，片基必须面向红光源。我们使用的红色滤光片是Kodak Redden 70，将红色滤光片放在彩色放大滤光片治具上，插在光源之前，将放大镜光圈全部打开，将红光投射到黑纸上以防止反射，然后用Kodak Krome胶片平放在投影台上，放大镜头距胶片0.5m，胶片后打开光源进行分段曝光，每次曝光5分钟，这些都是在暗室里进行的。对于彩色滤光片的选择非常重要，

2、青色显色：
胶片红色曝光后，装入显影槽，然后将溶解的绿色成色剂加入显影液中，调节温度，使胶片进行绿色显影，在24摄氏度的温度下显影10分钟。为了将底乳剂中的卤化银全部还原，青色显影后，必须再次用黑白显影液进行补充显影。同时为了控制、调整青色画面的浓度，还要根据绿色显影剂的情况添加适当的黑白显影剂，如米吐液，一般我们在绿色显影液中添加1%的米吐液。 1000毫升绿色显影剂5-10毫升，对青色浓度的效果有显着影响。青色开发的要求是：应控制好青色浓度、灰雾和对比度，因为青色显影的效果，也会影响后面黄色显影和品红色显影浓度的显色率，如果青色灰雾较大，就会造成颜色不平衡。对于绿色显影液最好匹配使用，用多少就用多少，用后即倒，以保证液体的稳定性。

3.黑白显影：
黑白显影的作用主要是将绿色显影后剩余的底层卤化银中的底层乳剂全部还原，以进行额外显影。

4.蓝色曝光：
柯达克罗姆胶片的蓝色感光层位于胶片的上层，因此胶片乳剂与蓝光面对面进行反向曝光，注意蓝色滤光片的选择，对其波长和光谱透过率特性要非常严格防止出现穿层现象。我们使用的彩色滤光片是柯达Redden 47 B，蓝色曝光方法与红色曝光相同，只是胶片乳剂朝上，瞄准蓝色光源，也是分段曝光，进行在暗室里。

5. 黄色显色：
胶片蓝色曝光，装入显影槽，然后将黄色显色剂按照要求配制的黄色显影液溶解到显影液中，调节温度，将胶片转为黄色显色，温度为24摄氏度，显影14分钟。发黄的要求是：发黄率要高，灰雾要小。显影后选用黄色着色剂，画面不能有黄中带红，黄色透明度要好。黄色显影液也是随调配好，用多少就用多少，用完后即倒，以保证漂洗质量。

6.黑白显影：
黄色显影后，立即进行黑白补充显影，使黄色乳剂层已曝光而未显影的残留卤化银全部还原成金属银，以防止品红色灰雾显影影响品红色显色率和增加灰雾。

7.洋红色灰雾显影：
洋红色着色剂加入到显影液中，然后加入适当的灰雾剂，使乳剂中的银盐全部变灰，显影并还原。同时为了控制品红色网版的浓度，还要根据情况在品红色彩色显影剂中添加适当的黑白显影液，比如秘银溶液，一般我们都是在1000毫升的品红色显影剂中添加1%的秘银溶液3-5毫升，可以控制品红的浓度。
公式

1.预固溶PH值9
水800毫升
亚硫酸氢钠 1g
四硼酸钠 20g
甲醛20ml
无水硫酸钠 100g
溴化钾 1 克
加水至1000ml

2.初显溶液PH值10.5
水800毫升
秘银 4g
无水亚硫酸钠50g
氟哌啶醇 4g
无水碳酸钠30g
氢氧化钠 1 克
硫氰酸钾 1 克
溴化钾 3 克
六硝基苯并咪唑 1% 5ml
加水至1000毫升

3、停止显示解决方案：
水 800 毫升
98%醋酸20毫升
加水至1000ml

4、绿色显色液：PH值11.3
水600毫升
无水亚硫酸钠 10g
磷酸钠25g
盐酸羟胺 1g
溴化钾 1g
六硝基苯并咪唑 1% 10 ml
CD-2 2克
加水至800ml
Note〗Take 1g of cyanogenic colouring agent and dissolve it in 20ml of 10% sodium hydroxide solution before use, add it to the above developing solution after the colouring agent is completely dissolved, then add water to the developing solution up to 1000ml, and the film can be cyanogenic developed after red exposure. The name of the chemical composition of CD-2 is 2-amino-5-diethylaminotoluene hydrochloride.

5. Yellow colour developing solution: PH value 11.5
Water 600ml
Anhydrous sodium sulphite 5g
Sodium phosphate 25g
Sodium hydroxide 2g
Potassium bromide 2g
Hydroxylamine hydrochloride 0.5 g
Hexanitrobenzimidazole 1% 10ml
TSS 2.8 g
Add water to 800ml
Note〗Take 1.2g of yellow colour-forming agent before use, dissolve the yellow colour-forming agent with 20ml of acetone solution, add it into the above developing solution after complete dissolution, and then add water to 1000ml of the developing solution. After the film is exposed in blue, it is ready for yellow development. The name of the chemical composition of TSS is: p-amino diethylaniline sulphate.

6. Black and white developing solution:
Water 700 ml
Mithril 3g
Sodium sulphite anhydrous 45 g
Haider 12g
Sodium carbonate anhydrous 60 g
Potassium bromide 2 g
Add water to 1000ml
Note〗When using one portion of liquid with one portion of water to develop the image, i.e. 1:1.

7.Magenta colour developing solution PH value 11.75
Water 800ml
Anhydrous sodium sulphite 4g
TSS 4g
Sodium hydroxide 1g
Amine hydroxide 8ml
p-Nitrophenylacetonitrile 1 g
Add water to 1000ml
Note: In addition to the colour-forming agent and grey mist agent (hydroxide amine), other drugs in the formula can be dissolved and formulated as reserve liquid. In the use of p-nitrophenylacetonitrile (magenta colour-forming agent) 1 g into 20 ml of acetone solution and 10 ml of ethanol dissolved in the dissolution, and then added to the above developer, the water will be added to 1,000 ml, to be other preparations for the completion of the work (such as adjusting the temperature of the developer, etc.), the film into the magenta developer and then add amine hydroxide 8 ml (grey haze), at this time, the film will be magenta developed immediately. The chemical composition of TSS is p-amino diethylaniline sulphate.

8. Bleaching solution: PH value 6.9
Water 800ml
Iron※※ Potassium 50g
Potassium bromide 10g
Add water to 1000ml

9. Fixing solution: PH value 8.5
Water 700ml
Sea wave 200g
Anhydrous sodium sulphite 10g
Add water to 1000ml

10. Stabilising solution:
Water 800ml
Saponin (wetting agent) 1 g
Formaldehyde 10 ml
Add water to 1000 ml

磷

Hi guys,
Does the remjet remover for ECN-2 works on Kodachrome's remjet?
I've got a roll and decided to process it in D76

ECN-2 prewash should work with the Kodachrome's remjet.

After processing in D76, you still need to do bleach as well. Otherwise the negative will be too dense and too difficult to scan/print.

blee1996 said:

ECN-2 prewash should work with the Kodachrome's remjet.

After processing in D76, you still need to do bleach as well. Otherwise the negative will be too dense and too difficult to scan/print.

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What kind of bleach? I've got ECN-2 and C-41 bleach on hand. I've watched some youtube videos that they only use B W fixer and no bleach

I wrote more in detail in an article


You can try just fix it and see how it goes. But in my own experience, I find bleaching necessary.

CrazyCockatoo said:

What kind of bleach? I've got ECN-2 and C-41 bleach on hand. I've watched some youtube videos that they only use B W fixer and no bleach

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The intention here is to remove the silver filter layer without removing too much of the image density. I'd use Farmer's Reducer by inspection, and (if there's enough film for testing) adjust development to get usable negative density.

I've only processed Kodachrome by reversal (for B&W positives), which is a whole different animal -- First Dev to high contrast, reversal bleach (which also removes the filter layer), light fog, and redevelop. If you get all the remjet off, this works pretty well, though my very limited sample had poor Dmax (possibly loss of speed or insufficient first dev). There's so little of this film left it's hard to come up with a reliable process, either way.

You can use the chemistry of ECN-2 to remove remjet. For bleach - you can't use "standard bleach". Kodak's instructions are 28 grams of citric acid in four liters of rapid fixer. However, practice shows that you need to double the citric acid. You process in the light, watching when it will clear up enough (not completely).

lamerko said:

You can use the chemistry of ECN-2 to remove remjet. For bleach - you can't use "standard bleach". Kodak's instructions are 28 grams of citric acid in four liters of rapid fixer. However, practice shows that you need to double the citric acid. You process in the light, watching when it will clear up enough (not completely).

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is it same thing with acid fixer

Yes. Note that this mixture will destroy the fix very quickly - it must be mixed immediately before use, as a one-time solution.