Kodachrome as B&W Neg

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by ssloansjca, Jan 20, 2009.

  1. Photo Engineer

    Photo Engineer Subscriber

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    Guys, dont forget that a wash after the fix is essential! Then photo flo, but no rinse!

    PE
     
  2. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    I can see this one, it happens thanks for the new link :smile:


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Artyockel

    Artyockel Member

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    Kodakchrome as B&W

    It's funny I was in Washington, DC visiting a photolab and a customer asked this very question. I know one place you can have this processed but he will not give out the procedure. Edgar Praus Productions in Rochester, NY.
     
  4. Photo Engineer

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    It is very simple to do as has been said before.

    PE
     
  5. StoneNYC

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    Easy for you to say, I'm really confused by this "bleach" step, because the kodak instructions to get rid of the yellow layer say...


    1. Prepare the bleach bath by dissolving 1 ounce (28 g) ofKODAK Citric Acid (Anhydrous) in 1 gallon (4 L) ofKODAK Rapid Fixer diluted as recommended for filmsin the fixer instructions.




    So is that all bleach is? Fixer and Citric Acid? If this is actually true, I both feel really happy that I've learned this, and really frustrated that no one said this to me before... also, why in color processing then is there a separate "Fix" step after the bleach step, if the bleach step itself contains fixer anyway?

    I wish you people would call each bleach step something different depending on which process it is and stop calling it bleach since I still think of bleach as clorox... lol you people (photo chemists) drive me batty!
     
  6. Photo Engineer

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    Stone, read the whole Kodak article. This is a special bleach for the yellow silver filter layer and that is it. It is NOT a regular color bleach or blix.

    PE
     
  7. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Thanks for confirming, and I did read it, I know the "old guys" don't understand but the "bleach" can be very confusing from process to process for anyone who didn't grow up on it.


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. Photo Engineer

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    Yes, some newbies even think that household bleach is similar but it is not. In fact, in most cases, household bleach will remove the emulsion from the film support.

    PE
     
  9. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Except polaroid negs which you do use household bleach on :smile: see ... so confusing... haha

    I'm going to make a website with formulas once I get this all down, and charge $5 per year for access and it will all be in once place... :smile:
     
  10. BradleyK

    BradleyK Member

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    Any progress to report on your efforts to process Kodachrome, StoneNYC? The reason I ask? I found another 18 rolls of KM and KR inside a Tupperware container when cleaning out/defrosting my deep-freeze. Curiosity may lead me to try my hand...
     
  11. StoneNYC

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    To be honest I've been focussing on a lot of large format photography and haven't shot much 35mm and still haven't picked up the chemical that I need to "clear" the Kodakchrome.

    Eventually I'll get to it I hope.
     
  12. JoJo

    JoJo Member

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    Developing B/W to bring back already exposed but never developed Kodachrome pictures is okay.
    But shooting unexposed Kodachrome as B/W film absolutely does not make any sense.
    Better sell it in Ebay (collectors pay a lot for it) or give it to me.:wink:
    I work my own 'Kodachrome color process' just for fun. It is a layer-selective chromogenic process but does not use the original color couplers.

    Joachim
     
  13. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    Care to share your process?
     
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  15. michaelbsc

    michaelbsc Member

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    Just what I was going to ask?

    Is it more like one of the older processes like K-12?
     
  16. fresnel10

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    Hi all...a friend and I are developing some Kodachrome that she found with photos taken sometime between the late 80s and early to mid 90s and stored in less than ideal conditions. We have been doing the process where we develop with D-76 for 15 minutes. Of course, the rem-jet is proving to be an issue for us. So far, we have tried doing the Borax and dish soap solution and a Borax/sodium hydroxide/sodium sulfate/water solution. While we can see through the film when it's held up to light, it's very hard to see much of anything. When not back-lit, they just look black. So we realized that there were still a couple things we needed to know:

    1.) Should there be a lot of black coming off when we wipe the film (the shiny side of the film)?
    2.) Will these end up with the clear look like you would expect with any other developed film? What should we expect it to look like?
    3.) Poking through here, I saw a suggestion to soak expired film in the rem-jet removing solution. Is that confirmed to work? I might have missed a post that said that, so sorry if I'm asking a question that has already been answered.

    Any elaboration would be greatly appreciated!
     
  17. StoneNYC

    StoneNYC Subscriber

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    There's some chemical that you can add to the fixer, and do a second fixing bath, and that should clear the brown color that is in the base, I'm not really sure what the chemical is though, but I think I remember that it is actually in this thread somewhere, or another one about Kodachrome, I certainly know that PE was the one who suggested this chemical I just can't remember where. Or what the chemical is that you add to the second fixing bath.
     
  18. Rick A

    Rick A Member

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  19. fresnel10

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    Thanks for the info everyone. So it sounds like it should come out looking something like a regular color negative? What we've been getting are negatives that, when wet, you can sort of see through and they have a dark green-ish tint to them. Once dry, they're basically opaque again. It sounds like this means that a bit of the rem-jet may have come off, but clearly not enough.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. Karl K

    Karl K Subscriber

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    I just finished developing my first roll of 35mm K64, with excellent results.
    All solutions at room temperature.
    1. Distilled water 10 minute pre-wash
    2. repeat step 1
    3. 20 minutes in Rodinal 1:40; agitate first two minutes, then 10 seconds every two minutes
    4. Distilled water 2 minute wash
    5. repeat step 4
    6. Kodak Fixer made fresh from powder, used straight for 20 minutes; agitate 10 seconds every 3 minutes
    7. Distilled water 2 minute wash and dump.
    8. repeat step 7 five more times
    9. Kodak Photo-Flo 1:50 for three minutes, agitate continuously to remove ramjet
    10. Shake the film reel to remove excess moisture. Do not rinse
     
  21. StoneNYC

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    Photo-flo removes RemJet?

    Wait till it dries, if it turns read you missed a step (the second fixer step).
     
  22. TheToadMen

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    Hi Karl,
    Thank you for the instructions. I still have one roll of Kodachrome in the fridge. I bought it several years ago to try it once myself and see what it is all about. I got me a roll with paid developing in Switzerland. I thought I'll save it for a nice project, nice place and nice weather - probably a vacation somewhere. But before I got round to use it the developing was discontinued already ....

    So it is still sitting in the fridge. But, since it is not likely any form of Kodachrome-slide-developing will reappear, I might as well use it as a B&W instead. Or leave it in the fridge as a "memento" for all the projects I want to do one day.

    I have three questions:
    1) at what temperature did you develop: 20 degrees Celsius (=68.0 degrees Fahrenheit)?
    2) you use no STOP-bath, instead only a wash with water (step 4 and 5)?
    3) that's quite some fixing, used straight for 20 minutes. Any special reason (like ramjet) or your standard procedure?

    And, when finished, could you show some scans of this film here?
    Thanks for the help!
    Bert from Holland
     
  23. Karl K

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    I have three questions:
    1) at what temperature did you develop: 20 degrees Celsius (=68.0 degrees Fahrenheit)?
    2) you use no STOP-bath, instead only a wash with water (step 4 and 5)?
    3) that's quite some fixing, used straight for 20 minutes. Any special reason (like ramjet) or your standard procedure?

    And, when finished, could you show some scans of this film here?
    Thanks for the help!
    Bert from Holland


    1. Room temperature is about 68-72 F; I don't think it's critical if all the solutions are at the same temperature.
    2. No stop bath; just the two water washes; Rodinal is compensating and after such a long development, I don't think it matters.
    3. Yes, the presence of ramjet concerned me, so the long fixing, repeated washes, and Photo-Flo took care of that problem.

    I have no film scanner, so I can't show you the negs. I still print the old fashioned way on an enlarger. I do have a digital camera and a macro lens, so when I have a chance I'll shoot some pictures of the negatives and post them.
    I'm not a darkroom guru by any means; I just read a lot on the Internet and worked out a procedure that was comfortable for me.
    It worked out well, so I'm happy to share my experience. Good luck.
     
  24. TheToadMen

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    You're experience is quite enough for me. I work the same way :wink:
    Thanks.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 12, 2014
  25. OptiKen

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    Karl K:

    What ASA did you shoot the roll of K64 at?
     
  26. Karl K

    Karl K Subscriber

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    Karl K:

    What ASA did you shoot the roll of K64 at?


    Normally, at ISO 64.