Alexander6x6
Member
In your scenario, if you can make the body (by grinding its interface) and back fit together, you can then just use the flash sync cable. With Phase P45+, I can use the flash synch cable (with an activation wake up button) and capture photos within 1/30. But my Hartblei got some shutter movement issue, so I had the shutter totally removed. I am not sure if it is going to work directly with the e shutter on CFV 100c - I can push the mirror lockup to have the clear light path. My current plan is to just use some in-front-of lens 3D print shutter and experiment with the old CCD back. The Arduino / ESP 32 S3 is very powerful because it can wake up the back and then make the exposure, trigger the flash etc in a pre-defined program sequence.
My Eyelike M22 I (22 Mpx) doesn't need grinding anything. It fits just fine with the sync cable.
Your camera (again, it is not a genuine Hartblei if it is Kiev-88CM) won't work with any e-shutter except Fuji GFX.
First of all the back must be somehow initiated: before it was initiated via sync contact, now in case of the CFV II it works by the pushing the button on the body. But if your focal plane shutter is not working, the sensor will be constantly exposed to the light.
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