Kiev 88 with digital back

yongfei said:

In your scenario, if you can make the body (by grinding its interface) and back fit together, you can then just use the flash sync cable. With Phase P45+, I can use the flash synch cable (with an activation wake up button) and capture photos within 1/30. But my Hartblei got some shutter movement issue, so I had the shutter totally removed. I am not sure if it is going to work directly with the e shutter on CFV 100c - I can push the mirror lockup to have the clear light path. My current plan is to just use some in-front-of lens 3D print shutter and experiment with the old CCD back. The Arduino / ESP 32 S3 is very powerful because it can wake up the back and then make the exposure, trigger the flash etc in a pre-defined program sequence.

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My Eyelike M22 I (22 Mpx) doesn't need grinding anything. It fits just fine with the sync cable.

Your camera (again, it is not a genuine Hartblei if it is Kiev-88CM) won't work with any e-shutter except Fuji GFX.

First of all the back must be somehow initiated: before it was initiated via sync contact, now in case of the CFV II it works by the pushing the button on the body. But if your focal plane shutter is not working, the sensor will be constantly exposed to the light.

Yes, I used to have Eyelike M11, CFV 16, they all fitted fine. I got this Hartblei from a US vendor many years ago. The body can take Hasselblad film back and properly expose the film. But I have to modify the interface in order to fit P45+ back.

So for CFV 100 e shutter, do I still need some "barn-door" (secondary shutter) to block the light after exposure? Anyway, I don't have an immediate plan to buy the CMOS back. Therefore, I will make it work with in-front-of the lens 3D shutter. This is just a hobby project (I have two other systems: Hasselblad and Bronica ETRSi 645 with Hasselblad V interface plate). So this Hartblei only needs to work in "home studio" with flash.

This was my Eyelike M11. I love the color from this back. Later on I also tried Sinar eMotion 75LV. But it didn't synch with the Hartblei. Currently I use P45+. I may upgrade to a full frame CCD back (P65+ or IQ180) later.

yongfei said:

Yes, I used to have Eyelike M11, CFV 16, they all fitted fine. I got this Hartblei from a US vendor many years ago. The body can take Hasselblad film back and properly expose the film. But I have to modify the interface in order to fit P45+ back.

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But then it is not a CM. Can you show me the front of your camera?

Did you disassemble completely the shutter together with the the advance wheel gear?

Alexander6x6 said:

But then it is not a CM. Can you show me the front of your camera?

Did you disassemble completely the shutter together with the the advance wheel gear?

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Attached is the front which says Hartblei. I am also curious because your lens shows a blue ring. Is that a Schneider lens for Kiev 88?

First I cut off the shutter curtain, thinking it was enough. But the advance lever soon jammed internally. So I had to send the camera to Arax to totally remove the shutter. Their service is getting expensive. I had to pay the base disassembly fee on top of the fix. Also, I paid $57 extra shipping fee to them without showing me the invoice because "there was some shipping information mistake".

p.s. advance wheel (gear) lever needs to work in order to wind up the mirror.

yongfei said:

Attached is the front which says Hartblei.

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I see. So you have got the fake Hartblei from the former sales manager of Hartblei who is still running fraudulent hartblei com domain.
He was using old parts, out of which his technicians did some modifications.

The genuine Hartblei is under hartbleilens com.

yongfei said:

I am also curious because your lens shows a blue ring. Is that a Schneider lens for Kiev 88?

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Yes, this is Schneider Kreuznach lens but with Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar.

I got it from the USA seller for only about $250, so no big deal. But indeed the camera (shutter) is not reliable therefore I decided to remove the shutter.

Since your camera is a Kiev 88, did you modify the lens mount in order to take P6 lenses?

My camera was heavily modified by Hartblei:
the P6 mount is twist&lock (in your case it is breach lock). Additionally my Master 688 has mirror lock-up and modified long exposure mechanism.

My Studio Master I kept with Kiev-88 mount. This camera has mirror control mechanism allowing to cock down the mirror any time as well as to completely switch off the mirror movement.

Despite being more than 25 years old, both cameras are still fully functional. They both have black metal curtain shutters. As the chief of Hartblei told me, the camera was actually not designed to be used with a cloth curtain shutter. I took his advice and asked him to blacken the original brass curtain.

Ok, now I fully understand the background. Glad that you got the real Hartblei to modify the camera and it's been working fine. In my case, my camera soon got into shutter problem again after Arax's shutter replacement. So this 2nd time, I asked Arax to just remove it.

This time, I also bought an 80mm lens from Arax, but the front glass has been scratched in a circle (see photo).... So I am done with with this Kiev body route. In future, I will try to DIY some plate camera with P6 mount, and just use digital back's live view.