With Rodinal, it seems highly prone to aerial oxidation at working strength.
Okay, but if that's the issue at hand here, I think the example posted by @Milpool above says enough. Yes, rodinal oxidizes readily, but it'll work fine for 1 hour at least, even at 1+100. So it's not as extreme as you make this out to be. Other developers can be more problematic in this regard; esp. staining developers like 510 pyro.
There might (will) be diminishing returns, but that doesn't place them at firm zero after 30 minutes as you implied earlier.
510 pyro
My regular 35mm film is also Fomapan 100, because bought in bulk it's affordable on a tiny pension! I like it (but not more than FP4 that I shot in the 80's and also bought in bulk). When I have a camera with a working meter it's box speed, when not it's a guess or a toy camera without adjustment. It just works for me! I have one p&s camera that tends to favour slow speeds and in which I use K400 (DX coded and a metal cassette). In box cameras I like Fomapan 200 because it's just so flexible. Pity about the black spots that I can't get rid of with my scalpel without wrecking the print! I do not like Fomapan 400 because of the plastic cassette (light leaks straight out of the box and the cassettes won't even fit in some of my cameras). The alternative for me is K400 or Agfa APX400 which are reasonably close to Fomapan prices through internet suppliers in EU. If I used more 400ISO I would probably go to Fomapan to bulk load but I only have one loader and I prefer slower speeds. Gone are my days of Pan F and Tri-X developed in Perceptol - that's poverty (I think!)My walk around film in 35mm is Foma, less expensive Kodak or ILford and about the same as Kentmere, but even in 35mm the anti -halogen layer works better for me in the glare of the desert sun. I do not use Kentmere or its rebranded version only due Foma's 120 curl, I use Foma sheet film in MF and LF size. I find the tones of 200 to be odd, could be that Foma 200 is a mix of T grain and traditional grain. What is nice about 200 is that I can shoot at pretty close to box speed while I shoot 100 from 50 to 80 and 400 from 100 to 250 depending on the developer. Kentmere is also DX coded which is needed when I am using one of my point and shoots without DX override.
Rereading my day book the image I took in the 70s was developed in Rodinal 1:25 at 75 degrees for 30 mint, my note says time was a WAG, which means wild ass guess.
Not really, and I wouldn't expect them to because it's kind of a vague situation where activity is in a grey area and drops off rapidly. Here's what they say in the datasheet for Rodinal/Adonal (which actually is an Agfa datasheet they still use):
View attachment 418271
This leaves an open question what constitutes "a short time".
Given that many users of Rodinal do stand or semi-stand development these days, a definitive answer would surely be helpful.I eventually stopped using 510-pyro at dilutions other than 1+100 because I found the times too unpredictable,
With some films, with enough solution volume - which does not equal all films. The test was also done to look into stand development - if you add enough agitation to resolve the major uneveness that @Milpool mentions, that will effectively aerate the developer too, unless you use nitrogen gas burst (I think some of the testing by others was done with regular agitation). A density/ time curve would demonstrate when diminishing returns rapidly set in, but would require much more extensive work.
I'd also add that the 30 min result is roughly equal to what Agfa (US) suggested would be the outcome of 20 mins with regular agitation, and that the average gradients and curve shapes tell a key story about something that can be achieved in much less time with Xtol and regular agitation (and the potential to land higher aim densities).
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