no examples, but its actually great from wide open in my experience (though I usually use it on 4x5, so I don't necessarily see the far corners.)
Just fixed up a Kodak 2D
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no examples, but its actually great from wide open in my experience (though I usually use it on 4x5, so I don't necessarily see the far corners.)
Most Specialist 2 cameras were painted grey, a few were plain lacquers wood. Their main use was Industrial, Scientific, Medical, Police/Forensic. There were specific Clinical and Police/Forensic kits, essentially the cameras were identical, there were specialist accessories.
Ian
Ian
If it were made in Australia it would be done in hammer tone grey. I think it was the only paint available last century.
How is the film back held on?, looks like just two thumb screws. Is it a simple rebate on the frame to couple to the camera?
Hoping it is so I can make a 4x5 and maybe if it's big enough a 8x10.
Yes just a rebate, Kodak Ltd did make a 5x4 reducing back for the Specialist 2, they do appear on eBay occasionally.
Ian
Ian
Camera arrived.
I wish people would stop referring to half plate as 5x7.
Anyway I will have to work something out.
Need to work something out for 4x5.
While I mull that over it needs a good clean otherwise it's a good solid camera. Bellows look original and solid, all the knobs are there, timbers beautiful.
Lens is clean, shutter needs a clean.
Need to make some lens boards.
Does anyone know whether actual 5x7 holders fit the cameras sprung back?
I have a lot of various types of 1/2 plate and film holders but no actual 5x7 holders.
I wish people would stop referring to half plate as 5x7.
Anyway I will have to work something out.
Need to work something out for 4x5.
While I mull that over it needs a good clean otherwise it's a good solid camera. Bellows look original and solid, all the knobs are there, timbers beautiful.
Lens is clean, shutter needs a clean.
Need to make some lens boards.
Does anyone know whether actual 5x7 holders fit the cameras sprung back?
I have a lot of various types of 1/2 plate and film holders but no actual 5x7 holders.
Yes Half plate, European13x18cm, and 7"x5" International film and plate holders will all fit, as they all have the same outside dimensions, they differ internally. I use 7x5 film holders with my Specialist 2.
You will need to probably source 7x5 film holders from the US as Kodak Ltd never made or sold them.
Ian
You will need to probably source 7x5 film holders from the US as Kodak Ltd never made or sold them.
Ian
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- awty
- Deleted
Might want to check whether 5x7 or 13x18 cm (or half plate!) film is easier to source and has more emulsion choices where you are before you settle on what film holders to get. It'd be a shame to pay for 5x7 (or 7x5) film holders along with shipping from the US, and then find out you have better film choices in 13x18.
Ian,
You are right about the Kodak 2D evolving during its manufacture. In the late 70's - early 80's I had a 8X10 Kodak 2D with the metal teeth gearing. Very solid camera, but I ended up selling it since I used it very little compared to 4X5 and medium format. I used a 12" commercial Ektar on mine and really liked that lens. But the thing I miss most about that camera was the lens board. The person that owned it prior to me put a metal iris lens board on the camera. Looked just like a giant iris in a lens. You would turn a knob to open the iris, insert any lens turn knob to close down on lens threads, then turn another knob to lock the iris. I never missed that camera or the lens, but I sure did miss the convenience of that metal iris lens board.
Did a basic clean and lube on the shutter, all speeds are working again. Glass is clean.
Decided to convert a half plate holder to a 4x5 wet plate holder, merged two together.
Modified (butchered) a Kodak half plate to take 5x7 plate, till I can get the real thing, now I can tell the difference.
Decided to convert a half plate holder to a 4x5 wet plate holder, merged two together.
Modified (butchered) a Kodak half plate to take 5x7 plate, till I can get the real thing, now I can tell the difference.
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Great job! Those big Ilex, Acme Shutters and Epsilon shutter like yours are sure much easier to work on that those tiny Compur shutters. At least for these old eyes, anyway. I'm refinishing my 8X10 B&J and will have it done this winter, if I'm still above ground by then. It was painted a "military" style gray, but the wood underneath is really a very nice Maple. I plan on posting some pics when I'm finished. You have a very impressive outfit, and it should bring you many happy returns on all your effort.
Thanks
Look forwards to seeing the B&J in the nude. Has one movement the Kodak seems to be missing, shift? Unless I'm missing something.
I'm going to try an adapt a 8x10 film holder, have one I made for another 1/2 plate, just need to make some more modifications. Have a Orbit C-1, but that requires a crane to move it.
An iris lens board would be really handy.
Most of the time, lens board size for large format was pretty much determined by the size of the format/camera. Big camera = big lens board. The worst match up I've seen is the 4X5 Busch Pressman D. Very nice camera, but tiny lens board. Certainly limits what lenses can be used on the camera. Most 8X10 camera lens boards were fairly large, but not always the same size per manufacture. I feel your pain!
Because then Sinar couldn't charge you $200 for something you could get off eBay to fit a Graflex for $15. This why I'll probably stick with my same cameras (Graphic View/GVII and Anniversary Speed) forever -- they use the same 4x4 board that I can make in under an hour out of masonite (or 10% more time to make four), with a utility knife or hobby saw and a hole saw in a hand held drill.
I made an adapter lens board, so I can use my Linhof/Wista lens boards on my Specialist 2. One downside to these cameras is it's hard to use a WA lens. Mine came with the 4¼" (108mm) f6.5 wide angle, technically it's a f6.5/11, meaning f6.5 for focussing but widest useful aperture is f11, comes in a recessed lens board as part of the kit with a fitting in the top of the case to hold it when not in use. The downside is it doesn't have a shutter.
This is the instruction booklet, my copy has a pasted in update on the Improved Over-Run Lock, stops the standard from over-running the base board if the extension rail is not attached.
Ian
This is the instruction booklet, my copy has a pasted in update on the Improved Over-Run Lock, stops the standard from over-running the base board if the extension rail is not attached.
Ian
I've made boards to take Linhof boards, but they're not a 10 minute job and still don't work well with large rear elements. All my 150 and wider are on Linhof boards, the longer length I have different boards for different cameras and just switch boards on the lens.
Cambo and other similar have boards that aren't easy to DIY, but you can get plastic 3d printed versions at a reasonable price and occasionally second hand ones come up for a reasonable price.
One LF camera would be good, two they start multiplying and you can never have enough lenses.
@John Wiegerink should we start a Burke & James restoration thread? I just picked up a local B&J commercial view, and I was disheartened by the costs of 8x10 film, so I decided I would strip the institutional gray/green paint and see what happens. It looks like it is a very similar design to the 1st couple of generations of the Kodak 2d. I started with a section of bed extension to test paint stripper and see what type of wood I would get under the paint. I got Maple.
The sample that @awty has above is really quite nice in the Mahogany flavor.
There are new bellows available for the commercial view and the 2d on ebay now. I'm sure they're out of China, but the same seller has a good reputation in the smaller bellows so who knows?
The sample that @awty has above is really quite nice in the Mahogany flavor.
There are new bellows available for the commercial view and the 2d on ebay now. I'm sure they're out of China, but the same seller has a good reputation in the smaller bellows so who knows?
I think all the B&J 8X10's are Maple, but I could be wrong. I did hear somebody say that some were made of Beech wood, but I've never seen one. One of the first things on my "to do this winter" list is putting a good finish on the wood, buy some new stainless screws to replace some buggered ones, and then reassemble the old girl. My bellows is in pretty nice shape with no misfolds. Does have a couple of tiny corner leaks, but I can take care of that. When I get done, I'll post a few pictures, and then we'll have a "name that camera" contest here.
As for film? I have a small stash of B&W and some Fujichrome 100 D and T. Shanghai GP3 is fairly reasonable if you need to buy new. Also, paper negatives aren't a bad way to go, either. Some folks are buying Xray film, but I haven't tried that yet.
In theory, I can "afford" the film. Burning through it like bulk 35mm is another story. I did get some expired stock form the person who sold me the camera, so I have that stuff. I sourced a nos toyo holder from a member on here. I had never owned a truly new film holder. It's a nice piece of kit.
what did you come up with for getting the lens stage removed from the front stanchions? My screws are hollow, but they're not internal hex like I was hoping. I was going to use a double nut system to back the studs out, but that necessitated a hardware store run.
what did you come up with for getting the lens stage removed from the front stanchions? My screws are hollow, but they're not internal hex like I was hoping. I was going to use a double nut system to back the studs out, but that necessitated a hardware store run.
Your question "what did you come up with for getting the lens stage removed from the front stanchions?'
I don't really understand your question. My camera is completely dismantled at my cottage, and I am back home for the holidays. I didn't run into any problems stripping it down to the last screw.
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