Is there a tank for 120 film that doesn't f*****g leak???????? leaking lids nightmare

[blee1996]

Close down the lid mostly, then press down on the center of lid, and burp to create negative pressure. And Patterson system 4 tank can be properly sealed without any leaks. I never had any leaks.

Additional note:

- I do have fairly new tanks.
- I only do inversion for developers. For bleach and fix, I use the center twiddle. There is no need for inversion other than developers.

 

[Rick A]

I've been using the same 16oz stainless steel tank for over 50 years without any more than a couple of drops leaking. I also have an 8 oz tank the same age and same zero problems. Both tanks have SS caps.

 

[blee1996]

I never store the tanks with their lids on.

Exactly! This way the elastic part of inner lid will stay in good condition for very long time.

 

[BrianShaw]

One thing I've been thinking about but never tried. What about a tiny schmear of silicone plumbing (o-ring) grease on the sealing part of the lid? Wouldn't that help make it go on easier and seal more reliably?

 

[koraks]

What about a tiny schmear of silicone plumbing (o-ring) grease on the sealing part of the lid?

I've tried sealing the screw part of my Paterson with Teflon tape. Didn't make a bit of difference in terms of the occasionally leaky drop, but it stayed in place OK.
For some reason I also noted that my Paterson will leak a drop or two of fixer, but rarely if ever developer. Never quite figured out why.

 

[Dustin McAmera]

I don't think I've ever had a significant leak from my Paterson tank (I haven't used it for years, mind - for all their faults I like my steel tanks). This may be because here, the tank is almost always going to get colder during the process. If the blowout of dev was because of the headspace air getting warm, maybe sitting the tank in a tepid water bath between inversions would help? That or re-burping at intervals.

 

[neilt3]

One thing I've been thinking about but never tried. What about a tiny schmear of silicone plumbing (o-ring) grease on the sealing part of the lid? Wouldn't that help make it go on easier and seal more reliably?

Not tried that myself as I don't have an issue if one or two tiny droplets come out onto my tray .
But , wouldn't adding a lubricant potentially allow the lid to pop easier and unexpectedly ?
Could it also pollute the chemicals you reuse when you pour them out ?
Thinking replenishment developer , stop and fix ?

 

[neilt3]

exactly.....we can add 'leak sweats' to 'film sweats' for new people to the art......I still, after all this time, get the sweats (esp in my climate) when the damn 120 film doesnt spool properly (paterson spools again).....I expect its because I use expired film thats been rolled up tight for decades.....

If your having issues loading 120 film onto standard Patterson reels , upgrade to a AP or Kieser reel .
They have a larger fin (?) for starting the film on , so much easier .
I always use this type for my 120/220 and the standard reel for 135 .

KAISER 4298 SELF WINDING REEL SPOOL SPIRAL PATERSON SYSTEM 4 AP DEVELOPING TANKS | eBay

Fits Paterson System 4 and AP Tanks. Universal film developing tank spiral from Kaiser.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[BrianShaw]

Not tried that myself as I don't have an issue if one or two tiny droplets come out onto my tray .
But , wouldn't adding a lubricant potentially allow the lid to pop easier and unexpectedly ?
Could it also pollute the chemicals you reuse when you pour them out ?
Thinking replenishment developer , stop and fix ?

Good questions; I'm not completely sure but don't think there would be a problem. Silicone lubricant, especially in the tiny quantiity that would be required is quite benign. Similar experience with food-service equipment, soft-serve ice cream machines, is what makes me think this might be a viable option. The seal is really based on the design of the sealing surfaces (which is interlocking rather than frictional based so "popping off" seems no more likely than if ungreased), lack of deformities in the sealing surfaces (cracks, divots and the like), and a complete connection between the interlocking parts. In similar situations, the grease facilitates two aspects: the initial complete sealing, and maintaining complete sealing during rotational motions of the machine. I might try this on a tupperware container first....

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Consider steel tanks with hard rubber lids. I hate Patterson tanks.

+1 Been using them for my 120 film and no problem at all. A few drop get leaked but not much. I still use gloves out of habit mostly (nitrile or roll plastic bags, whatever is available)

 

[Paul Howell]

I use SS tanks, Nikor and others of unknow maker as well as Patterson, metal and plastic tops with metal and plastic libs. Although I had few plastic tops that I had toss when they cracked, when in good condition none has leaked more than a drop or two when inverted. I guess to be on the safe side you can the lib to the top.

 

[MattKing]

Kudos for everyone in this thread who spells Paterson correctly - one "t" only please.
With the current (~last 35 years) Super System IV tanks, the lids are designed with some flex built in. I could foresee a situation where after several years and many exposures to many different temperatures some of that flex could disappear, but I haven't had that problem.
For those who understand the reference, you use those lids in the same way that that one uses classic Tupperware lids.
And I use flat bottom darkroom trays to hold everything on the top of the kitchen counter. That includes the rotary agitator.
If I forget and don't double burp the fixer, it can sometimes dribble a bit when the tank is rotating on its side.

 

[gorbas]

Very often here we mix and not distinguish between "older" Paterson System 4 with "newer" Super System 4. I'm mainly using older System 4 and have something like 10 different sizes tanks. Over the years I mix and match gaskets and lids to minimize leakage and it works well. When I find right combo I mark it and alway use the same combination of parts. There is much less leakage than "normal". Also since I start doing "burp" I frequently have to re-glue 2 part of the lid. With newer Super System 4 there are much less leaks.

 

[mshchem]

This is why I don't invert with Paterson tanks. I do figure 8's. I teach high school photography. I can't have a classroom of teens spilling chemicals all over themselves

My Father developed film for 40 years in an old Elkay tank using figure 8's. Works perfectly, he did it every 30 seconds. Jobo tanks are a bit less prone to leak. I used Paterson tanks for years, minimal dripping, still they leak a bit.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I have no experience with Paterson tanks. I use Jobo hand-inversion tanks instead, and have never had a leak issue.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Some of us just can't afford those Jobo gizmos...

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

This is what I use :

I had several Paterson on the past, but most of them eventually got cracks. This thing last forever.

 

[GregY]

This is what I use :

View attachment 374231


I had several Paterson on the past, but most of them eventually got cracks. This thing last forever.

Me too

 

[BobUK]

I only threw out my first Paterson tank after the plastic thread on the body wore away. Then, the lid slid up suddenly.

A really secure fastening lid would have a wired snap down lid seen on some Kilner Preserving Jars

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use the Jobo 1500 series tanks with hand inversion and haven't experienced leaks. Have you tried them?

I have the same experience with the Jobo 1500 series tanks.

 

[Hassasin]

As the saying goes: there is always a first.

 

[pentaxuser]

No experience of Paterson tanks but even with about 5 inversions per minute I have rarely had any drips with a Jobo 1510 or 20 tank. You have to ensure that the the tank lid sits evenly on the tank itself by ensuring that you press it down all the way round the top. Jobo tanks give you the option of adding to them so that several reels can be processed in one tank

However the best tank I have that gives me no drips at all is the Durst 120 tank which has a simple press-on lid. You might imagine that as the lid is only a friction fit to the top of tank and does not screw on or have teeth in the lid like Jobo tanks that grasp the tank top then such a fit as the Durst might after several years use begin to "stretch" and leak but my experience has been OK

However mine will only process one 120 film at a time so if you need to do multiple films at a time then the Durst will not meet that requirement

For 120 I in fact prefer the Durst to the Jobo. Whether they are obtainable via e-bay I do not know

pentaxuser

 

[cliveh]

Nothing wrong with paterson tanks and never had a problem.

 

[MattKing]

This is what I use :

View attachment 374231


I had several Paterson on the past, but most of them eventually got cracks. This thing last forever.

I have one of those plastic lids that has cracked, and one that seems to be lasting well.
Although the fact that I cannot successfully load 120 steel reels means that I almost never use my steel (and equivalent plastic) tanks for steel reels.
If I was only using 35mm, I'd seriously think about going back to steel reels.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

I use Kindermann stainless tanks with rubber lids and Nikor tanks with stainless lids... they all work as they should. My tanks have been used for decades. I got rid of Patterson plastic tanks and reels long ago. Whether you have 35mm or 120 film in them should have no effect on whether your Patterson tank leaks.....

I totally agree for the Kindermann, and the Omega's too.

Even the JOBO 2500 system tanks aren't that leak proof, after using them for more than 10 years, to my personal experience although...