Thanks Ralph. It's way more work than I originally figured. I don't know how you were able to write an entire book.
OK, does the K factor adjust the SLOPE of the (base-2 log X) curve or merely the intercept? I'm pretty sure the K factor is an even offset to the EV/LV scale, correct?
In otherwords, if you have a step wedge with each wedge 1 stop apart, and you spotmeter every step, and write the values down, and then increase the K value on the meter, and re-read the step wedge, would every step of the wedge increase in reading by the same amount? Or would different brightnesses be affected differently e.g. EV 1 reading would increase by .1 stops but EV 15 reading would increase by .5 stops?
Okay, I actually wrote to Sekonic and here is the response I got.
Dear Mr. or Ms. Subhro Kar,
Thank you for your inquiry.
I am Minoru Oda(Mr) from Sales Operation Sec.
of light meter in Sekonic Corporation in Japan.
As you already might know, exposure value is determined by calibration constants.
Our light meter has K=12.5, C=340(Lumisphere), C=250(Lumidisc).
Therefore, the incident reading and the reflected reading(with 18% gray) are different under the
condition of point light source and in dark room. However, the reason you mentioned is a little
wrong.
These calibration constants means that if you measure 16% gray with spot, the reading might be
same as incident reading of lumidisc.
However, in the measurement with lumisphere, the lumisphere receives more light than Lumidisc
does.
It is no meaning to compare the readings between Lumisphere (incident) and Spot(reflected) because
they are different system and receive different light.
If forced to say, if you measure 11.5% gray with spot, the reading might be same as incident reading
of lumisphere under the condition of point light source and in dark room with no reflection from
walls.
However, actually in the lighting in nature or studio, "Point light source" are impossible.
So, this is only for theory and formula.
We have traditionally continued to use C=340(Lumisphere) from long time ago, because we have
recommended it and our customer has appreciated its performance in nature or studio.
Does it answer your inquiry?
If you have any question, please kindly let us know.
Sincerely yours,
Minoru Oda
Sales Operation Sec.
Knowing you K faxtor will help you to use your meter to read in lux or lumen if you care to do so.For determining exposure,you can most likely live without knowing the K factor of your meter.Sometimes I feel like I'm driving in the snow with all this system calibration. You turn right when you want to go left. Turn too far and if you're lucky you hit the hillside and wait for some helpful citizen to come along with a tow line to pull your radiator off. (OK, I was the helpful citizen. How was I supposed to know the brace behind the Fiero's bumper held the radiator. The driver was really nice considering).
I've heard that instead of being calibrated to 18% gray, most meter manufacturers include a "K-factor" which is approximately a 1/3 stop deviation away from 18% gray.
In the specifications for my meter, the Calibration Constant is 12.5 for reflected light. I have the opportunity to change this to any number I want.
Does the K factor improve the accuracy of my meter? Does it compensate for flare? Should I try to determine my own K factor?
Bill, I am just going to tell you this: too much fiddling and too much obsession with technical details don't lead to better photographs.Revisiting this discussion of K because some recent discussions are starting to shed light on the topic.
Some ideas I want to expand on: Did the first ASA speeds fit 18% gray cards better? Did the instructions for using the gray card have to change when ASA speeds were doubled? Are you really only supposed to use 18% gray card readings directly for flat copywork? Should you use the lumidisc (flat receptor) when trying to correlate incident readings with reflected readings? Is it illogical to use the lumisphere (dome receptor) when shooting flat copy (including gray cards)?
That sums it up for me. All we need to know.Knowing you K faxtor will help you to use your meter to read in lux or lumen if you care to do so.For determining exposure,you can most likely live without knowing the K factor of your meter.
Bill, I am just going to tell you this: too much fiddling and too much obsession with technical details don't lead to better photographs.
You read what you want to read from that.
But, I think I'm better off with just using a reflective meter, be it inbuilt in my 35mm cameras or a Leningrad 8 and not to worry so much.
I don't remember reading that Albert Eisenstadt, Andre Kertesz, Jane Bown or Vivian Maier were ever obsessed with technical details.
You can't fault aesthetically their photographs, nor even technically.
Lastly, don't try to have an heart attack. Life is too short for that.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?