Is light seal foam expensive everywhere?

[LordWout]

I recently bought a secondhand camera that I plan to use, but upon inspection I saw that the light seals are as flat as a pancake and likely haven't ever been replaced. I imagine it's pretty expensive to let an expert do it, so I'm thinking about replacing them myself. I don't have any past experience with this, but after watching some video's on youtube it seems simple enough.
When I look at the buying options online, the cheapest option for a single sheet is like 12 euro's with 9 euro's delivery costs. Is it that expensive everywhere, or am I just unlucky to be living in the Netherlands?
Does anybody else living in my area have a similar experience and can help me with finding a cheaper alternative, or should I just bite the bullet?

Edit: I realize that I posted this in the wrong category, my apoligies. Maybe somebody can help me move it

 

[koraks]

How many cameras can you do with that single €21 sheet?
There's only so much time I'm willing to commit to searching for a cheaper alternative. Sometimes it makes sense to just get it over with and not look back.

 

[jay moussy]

At Michael's, a craft store chain in the U.S., I found this smooth foam material, the size of a letter, 2 mm thick.
I have used it with cement on older cameras, nothing too fancy, with good results.
"Little Makers" foam sheet says the label.

 

[jimjm]

You can buy replacement foam seal kits for specific cameras, but these will be more expensive than just foam sheets of different thicknesses that you cut yourself. I've had a supply of foam that I've used on at least 20 or 30 cameras over the past 10 years. Micro-Tools has a kit of 10-inch foam sheets of different thicknesses shown here.
Or you can just buy a few sheets of thick and thin foam which will last for years. In any case, foam replacement is an easy job on most cameras.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I found it much easier to buy a kit of foam that was pre-cut for the specific camera.

Randomly selected from Google results:

Self Adhesive Custom Light Seal Foam Sponge Kits For Nikon FM FM2 FE F

Custom Light Seal Kit fits the Nikon FM FM2 FE FE2 Film Cameras High-Density Sponge Function: For Nikon FM FM2 FE FE2 camera light seal replacement. With time by, film camera light seal foam aging and lead to light leakage, we have to replace new light proof seal. Features: 1.Made with quality...

www.etonephoto.com

 

[MattKing]

My former camera repair technician, Horst Wenzel (R.I.P.) used to charge me one fee for putting new seals in, and a significantly larger fee for clearing out old seals and then putting in new seals.
Although he would sometimes recommend a type of fabric yarn rather than adhesive foam, for particular parts of the work. The yarn is much easier to remove and replace.
This may give you a sense of where the work mostly is.

 

[koraks]

Edit: I realize that I posted this in the wrong category, my apoligies. Maybe somebody can help me move it

No problem; in cases like these, simply click "report" at the bottom of your post and explain what needs to be done.

 

[dxqcanada]

I am in Canada, so I am not sure if Polarbear is more economical for you ... https://polarbearcamera.com/collections/light-seal

 

[Bill Burk]

I got two sheets from here, they’re enough for at least a dozen cameras

Rikuo Nakamura (Mr)
mailto:info@aki-asahi.com

Aki-Asahi Camera Coverings

 

[4season]

Yes, that foam is wildly expensive, but it might be worth it if it's from a known source. I don't know how true, but I've heard claims that good stuff lasts much longer. "Moltopren" is commonly mentioned in Japanese repair circles, and the genuine stuff originates from one specific manufacturer:

https://www.inoac.co.jp/en/solution/moltopren.html

I get mine via Aki-Asahi. Most of the actual expense is not the foam itself, but the labor involved in removing the old stuff, and installing the new.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I don't have any past experience with this, but after watching some video's on youtube it seems simple enough.

When removing the old light seals and any existing mirror shock absorbers, you have to be careful that none of the often sticky parts get into the shutter or onto other moving parts. First the rotten stuff sticks together and then it might get hard.

 

[koraks]

@Andreas Thaler on the topic of sourcing foam for this purpose, what would you recommend? Note that OP is in Europe like both of us.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

@Andreas Thaler on the topic of sourcing foam for this purpose, what would you recommend? Note that OP is in Europe like both of us.

I've never changed seals and dampers myself because I haven't had the courage to do so

There is an unused Nikon F3AF here, the mirror shock absorber is sticky and crumbling. I don't dare do this myself.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

@Andreas Thaler on the topic of sourcing foam for this purpose, what would you recommend? Note that OP is in Europe like both of us.

The Kameradoktor in Germany is often recommended on the subject. He offers sets for common camera models:

Lichtdichtungen-Light-Seals-Kameradichtungen-und-Spiegeldaempfer

 

[koraks]

The Kameradoktor in Germany is often recommended on the subject. He offers sets for common camera models:

Lichtdichtungen-Light-Seals-Kameradichtungen-und-Spiegeldaempfer

Thanks, much appreciated. I think I've seen that web page before. It's not immediately clear to me if he also sells larger patches of the stuff, or only camera-specific cut outs. Either can be very useful.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks, much appreciated. I think I've seen that web page before. It's not immediately clear to me if he also sells larger patches of the stuff, or only camera-specific cut outs. Either can be very useful.

Yes, sorry, that doesn't quite address the OP's question, but maybe still useful.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks, much appreciated. I think I've seen that web page before. It's not immediately clear to me if he also sells larger patches of the stuff, or only camera-specific cut outs. Either can be very useful.

I also have to face the topic and have already ordered material for cutting from microtools.de. Up to now I can't say whether it's a good fit.

The challenge will be to cleanly remove the rotten old stuff and to cut the light seals to fit precisely and especially to completely replace them. The thickness of the stripes also has to be right.

It would therefore make sense to get a suitable set at the beginning.

My last camera repair shop used black string for light seals, which probably lasts longer.

 

[koraks]

And not least, where did all Dutch got the idea of separating the s for plural?

Eugen, this is an international forum. People make language mistakes all the time. I do, OP does, and you do, too. Let's not start picking apart each other's posts to correct these things. If the message is clear, then leave it at that. If it isn't, ask for clarification.

Your other suggestions are valuable, although I feel they could have been presented in a more constructive manner.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Where comes the idea of anything has to be replaced, no matter if it works or not? Did you put a film in that camera? How you know those seals are not perfeclty light thight?

If something is rotten or no longer in good condition, it should be replaced. Seals don't last forever and I wouldn't want to sacrifice a film for testing.

 

[koraks]

If something is rotten or no longer in good condition, it should be replaced. Seals don't last forever and I wouldn't want to sacrifice a film for testing.

Yes, although I do agree with @Eugen Mezei that it makes sense to fix a problem only if it exists. I have used cameras with very abysmal light seals that still didn't show any light leaks, and I left it at that. Should I have replaced them? Maybe, if I wanted to restore the camera to a like-new condition. But if you're in it for the photos, and the photos are fine, there's something to be said for just leaving it alone.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Yes, although I do agree with @Eugen Mezei that it makes sense to fix a problem only if it exists. I have used cameras with very abysmal light seals that still didn't show any light leaks, and I left it at that. Should I have replaced them? Maybe, if I wanted to restore the camera to a like-new condition. But if you're in it for the photos, and the photos are fine, there's something to be said for just leaving it alone.

At least the mirror shock absorber should be replaced if it is no longer fully intact. Cameras often sit unused for a long time and after a few shutter releases the stuff breaks off and falls into the mirror box. That's uncomfortable.

I have the problem with my Minolta X-700, which I recently have renovated. At the beginning everything looks good and then it falls suddenly apart after releasing the shutter:

The light seals are less of a problem here because they are mounted in recesses where they cannot crumble directly into the shutter unless the stuff has stuck to the back door:

OT OVER

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I do agree to replace/repair something not in working order. But why suppose it is in non-working order before you tried it? In this same context, I find it always amusing when people buy a Leica and even before putting a film into it they already ask where they can CLA it.

I look at this from a service and repair perspective. Whatever is wrong, I try to fix it. But of course you can also see it pragmatically, as you do.

To get back to the OP, he described a condition of the light seals that no longer indicates 100 % functionality. hence time for service, today or tomorrow. Hopefully no important film will be damaged tomorrow:

I recently bought a secondhand camera that I plan to use, but upon inspection I saw that the light seals are as flat as a pancake and likely haven't ever been replaced.

 

[reddesert]

Light seals and mirror foam aren't hard to clean off and replace, much less time-consuming, invasive, or costly, than getting a CLA. It depends on the camera, because for example many 35mm SLRs have a channel around most of the back that forms a labyrinth light trap and you only might have to be concerned about a piece near the hinge.

On the other hand, some compact cameras don't have a labyrinth and you do want some foam or felt on the back (for example the popular Canonet QL17 usually has some gooey foam residue on the back that should be fixed), or there is crumbly mirror foam that will be magically attracted to the focusing screen, like in Andreas's X-700.

For crumbly mirror foam like that, consider putting a drop of alcohol either on the foam or on the tip of a plastic spudger, and using the spudger to scrape off the foam residue. Do this while holding the camera up, lens opening down, so that all the scraped off gunk falls out and not into the camera.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I recently bought a secondhand camera that I plan to use, but upon inspection I saw that the light seals are as flat as a pancake and likely haven't ever been replaced.

Would you like to tell us which camera it is, since @reddesert correctly says that the type of seals and systems are different?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

So I find it always amusing when people buy a Leica and even before putting a film into it they already ask where they can CLA it.

As far as the popular CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust) is concerned, I am also critical.

As long as a camera works without any abnormalities, I don't intervene in the system, as that always involves risk.

If you are serious about CLA, you would actually have to fully disassemble the camera, replace damaged or worn parts, clean it, lubricate where necessary, reassemble and adjust the camera.

This is also a lot of work for repairers trained on the respective model, which of course has to be paid for. Therefore I doubt that a CLA is always done so thoroughly by workshops, as it is an expensive thing.

For newer electronic cameras like Nikon F3, Canon A-1, Minolta X-700, I don't think a full CLA is necessary as these devices are made to last. Unless there are problems.

I speak here primarily from my many years of experience as a collector.