Infinity Focus is not quite right

[mehguy]

Are you sure your lens works with this camera?

Well it's an Nikon F mount AI lens on a nikon FE, which is what it officially supports.

 

[wiltw]

I would have to develop a roll of film to find out.

I'm using the split image on the Nikon type K screen.

I'm using a Nikon Series E 50mm 1.8 lens

Have you checked that the screen is properly seated in the frame that holds the focus screen in position, and have you checked to see that the frame itself is properly latched fully upward (toward the pentaprism)?

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Here's Gemini AI answer that might help:

Infinity focus issues on a Nikon FE are usually caused by one of three things: the lens, the mirror/screen alignment, or the "infinity stop" on the lens itself. Before you start taking things apart, we need to isolate the culprit.

1. The "Is it the Lens?" Test​

Check if the lens can achieve infinity on a different body (or a digital Nikon).

• If it fails on all cameras: The lens element has likely shifted, or a previous owner "repaired" it and didn't calibrate the infinity stop correctly.
• If it only fails on the FE: The issue is the camera's internal alignment.

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2. Common Culprit: The Focus Screen​

On a Nikon FE, the focus screen is user-interchangeable. If it isn't seated perfectly flush, your eyes will tell you the image is out of focus even when the film will see it perfectly.

• The Fix: Open the camera back, use a pair of tweezers to release the small silver catch at the top of the mirror box. The screen will drop down. Gently push it back up until it "clicks" firmly. Even a fraction of a millimeter of tilt will ruin infinity focus.

3. The Mirror Stop Adjustment​

Over decades, the little rubber or plastic "stop" that the mirror rests on when it’s down can degrade or compress. If the mirror sits too low or too high, the distance the light travels to the viewfinder won't match the distance to the film.

• The Fix: There is a small eccentric screw inside the mirror box (usually on the side) that governs where the mirror rests.
• Warning: Only touch this if you have a "ground glass" (or Scotch tape) placed over the film rails to verify that the image is actually out of focus at the film plane. If the film is sharp but the viewfinder isn't, adjust the mirror.

4. Calibrating the Lens (The DIY Fix)​

If the lens is the problem, many Nikon AI lenses allow for a "hard stop" adjustment:

1. Peel back the rubber grip on the focus ring.
2. Look for three tiny set screws.
3. Loosen them slightly (don't remove them!).
4. Set your camera to a tripod, point it at a star or a very distant power line, and manually turn the inner focus barrel until the image is tack sharp.
5. Slide the outer focus ring to the $\infty$ mark and retighten the screws.

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How to verify the "True" Focus​

To see if your film will actually be blurry, try the Scotch Tape Method:

1. Open the camera back (no film).
2. Set the shutter to Bulb (B) and hold it open with a cable release.
3. Place a piece of translucent matte tape (Magic Tape) across the inner film rails.
4. Look at the tape with a magnifying glass. If the image on the tape is sharp at infinity, your camera's mirror or screen is the problem, not the lens or the film alignment.

Note: If you find the mirror is hitting the "foam" at the top and staying slightly tilted, you may just need a Light Seal Replacement kit (the foam bumper is likely sticky and rotted).

 

[MattKing]

Again - the fact that the markings on the lens don't match up to your expectation says nothing about whether the system is focusing properly.
Film will tell you that.

 

[mehguy]

I just realized that my Nikon 28-80mm AF lens is compatible with my FE. I will give it a try tomorrow when there is light out.

 

[Craig]

Yes. When the split-image rangefinder indicated IN FOCUS, the position of the focusing ring relative to the focus index, was a smidge off of infinity. As in, I was able to turn it further into infinity's direction, making the split image indicate out of focus.

I have tried this on subject distances around 0.1 to 0.5 km away.

If you photograph the subject is it in focus? That's all that really matters.