What would be the idea behind classic processing?
It is just the chromogenic image creation that enables the special features of such B&W films.
If the differences are negligible,I'd rather only have to worry about having one type of developer on hand
The differences are not neglible.
Good that nobody has yet claimed that. And now that you made it clear what you think of them, I am sure nobody will ever make such a claim.Anyone who claims a meaningful lack of difference is, sorry to say, operating at below-baseline technical level (which is very low indeed).
thanks for the feedbackI recommend that the OP try a roll in B/W chemistry to make his own judgement.
I recently shot a test roll of 120 size XP2 at EI 200, and processed it in Rodinal 1+25...I got some beautiful, slightly dense negs with a very faint magenta cast to the film base. 1+50 might be a better option for me, but more testing will be necessary to nail down my personal EI & development time.
Haven't had a chance to make any prints yet.
I got a brick of outdated 120 XP2 at a good price, and I process my own film, so I will save money by not sending it to a lab for C-41 processing.
Thanks very much for this, Raghu. Can't wait to try your suggestionsXP2 Super gives beautiful results when developed in B&W developers such as XTol and Pyrocat HD. It builds contrast quickly, so 75% of FP4+ development time is a good starting point. It also looses speed in B&W chemistry and you might want to shoot it at EI:100 for best shadow details. At 200 and above there is definite loss in shadow details. Results have a charm of their own and there's no harm in trying and finding out if you are interested. Check Ilford blogpost by @drmoss_ca to see some results. But naysayers do have a valid point about using an expensive film and forgoing its built-in highlight compensation and high speed.
Excellent link - thanks!From one of our own, chrism, a wonderful person. https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-xp2-super-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
The differences are vast and relate to the utilisation of inherent properties of types of chromogenic coupler that are very/ near impossibly difficult to enact in a regular B&W film. Anyone who claims a meaningful lack of difference is, sorry to say, operating at below-baseline technical level (which is very low indeed).
I will have to say this as well. There are times when I shake my head in absolute frustration at the responses to these questions
My comments were not specifically aimed at you, AgX but just to the problem that we seem to experience every time with requests for comparisons and actual experience of something. Often the thread starter is looking for information from users in terms of their experiences. In this case such users really need to be those who have done both methods with comparison pictures if possible but those who have only done the method the OP has not used i.e b&w development may have examples to giveBy no means I can understand your critique on my response. I did my best to adapt to the idea of use I could deduce from the primary post..
Well done Old_ Dick for supplying this article from IlfordPhotoFrom one of our own, chrism, a wonderful person. https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-xp2-super-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
But the various chromogenic films differ in their design. The first two films, introduced same time by Agfa and Ilford, were designed with emphasis on the possibilities that such films yield concerning latitude. Whereas the much later Kodak film was designed with emphasis to make a b&w film that can be developed and printed at any minilab.BW400CN, I assume being a C41 B&W film, would behave similarly to XP2 re. use of chemistry.
@Huss, I've developed XP2 Super in Df96 and it worked fine (aside from a little background Sabbatier effect because I didn't give double time and the film wasn't fully fixed when I opened the tank -- and then the fogged residual halide developed).
While I haven't done BW400CN in monobath, I have done bleach bypass on it with a visible increase in speed. The film works the same way (except for the orange mask). If you got clear film your Df96 was probably gone off.
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