Ilford Delta-400 Professional 120 Black & White Negative (Print) Film (ISO-400)

[Terry Christian]

To use the meter, assuming it is working correct:
Align the inner dial to your desired ASA (ISO).
Point the sensitive end toward your subject. The needle should move in response to light. (You may have to depress a button on the side of the meter, if it has one.)
Rotate the large dial until the "O" on the dial aligns with the needle. You should now be able to see the various coupled combinations of aperture and shutter speed available to you. Pick the one you'd like to use, and set your camera.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

To use the meter, assuming it is working correct:
Align the inner dial to your desired ASA (ISO).
Point the sensitive end toward your subject. The needle should move in response to light. (You may have to depress a button on the side of the meter, if it has one.)
Rotate the large dial until the "O" on the dial aligns with the needle. You should now be able to see the various coupled combinations of aperture and shutter speed available to you. Pick the one you'd like to use, and set your camera.

Christian, Thank you very much, I'll give it a try, and hope it's functioning correctly! If not I guess I could get that Luna 3 I wanted lol

 

[cmacd123]

Way back when I was starting to do development, I had a NIKOR Stainless Steel 120 reel that came with a loading tool, just a bent chrome metal item that let you hold the film with JUST the right bend to get it to load on the reel. At the time I got to like the SS reels as they would load even if they were a bit damp. I was using the school darkroom and so my equipment was in a locker and never got a good chance to dry.

One thing I found annoying with the stainless steel is that where the film touched the reel there was always a narrow undeveloped, Unfixed Streak. This made reading the frame numbers hard in 135 and often intruded in the actual image on 120.

These days I mostly use the JOBO 1500 Series, but they have gotten rather rare and expensive as JOBO went though a reorganization.

The Paterson compatible Plastic reels that were mentioned earlier are VERY EASY to load, and I will often use one of those with 120 if using a Paterson style tank.

If you only need to develop one roll at a time this

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122936-REG/Omega_455031_Universal_Developing_Tank_with.html

or this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ESA321_Universal_Plastic_Developing_Tank.html

are also good buys and may be a touch easier to use than the Modern Patterson line, just because the Plastic cap is easier to put on and take off. (I am not positive but both these tanks are likely the same item made by A-P In Spain, although I have one that looks the same that was made in Hong-Hong.)

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Way back when I was starting to do development, I had a NIKOR Stainless Steel 120 reel that came with a loading tool, just a bent chrome metal item that let you hold the film with JUST the right bend to get it to load on the reel. At the time I got to like the SS reels as they would load even if they were a bit damp. I was using the school darkroom and so my equipment was in a locker and never got a good chance to dry.

One thing I found annoying with the stainless steel is that where the film touched the reel there was always a narrow undeveloped, Unfixed Streak. This made reading the frame numbers hard in 135 and often intruded in the actual image on 120.

These days I mostly use the JOBO 1500 Series, but they have gotten rather rare and expensive as JOBO went though a reorganization.

The Paterson compatible Plastic reels that were mentioned earlier are VERY EASY to load, and I will often use one of those with 120 if using a Paterson style tank.

If you only need to develop one roll at a time this

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122936-REG/Omega_455031_Universal_Developing_Tank_with.html

or this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ESA321_Universal_Plastic_Developing_Tank.html

are also good buys and may be a touch easier to use than the Modern Patterson line, just because the Plastic cap is easier to put on and take off. (I am not positive but both these tanks are likely the same item made by A-P In Spain, although I have one that looks the same that was made in Hong-Hong.)

I went the el cheapo eBay way, and bought the Paterson Super System 4 Film Developing Tank w/ Reel included, from a small business in California, that goes by the eBay simonscamera, I can't wait to try it! My own stainless eems to be leaky, plus, in my opinion, it is a little hard to load, either way, I at least have a brand new one to start from scratch with! The best part is, that I also contributed to keeping small business, especially photography related ones, alive! Happy photography! -Americo.rodriguez aka.rodriguezpix


http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-I...d-/261503047011?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT

Local pickup also available if buyer resides in the Los Angeles area. Please call

(323)463-8585​

Free shipping within the lower 48 states. ​

Returns only if item is DOA. Return warranty does not cover wrong fit, buyers' remorse, buyer tampering or disassembly, or anything else besides functionality.

Simon's Camera is a family owned brick and mortar establishment that has served the Los Angeles area for nearly 40 years.


If you have any questions just give us a call at (323)463-8585 Mon-Sat 9:30-6pm PST. Check us out on
Yelp http://www.yelp.com/biz/simons-camera-los-angeles#query:camera and purchase with confidence.


CA buyers please note, we collect CA sales tax of 9%.


​

 

[MattKing]

That tank is just a smaller version of the one I linked to for you. It will work well, but it won't let you develop with two reels set to 120 size at the same time.

The Paterson reel included with it is good. I just find that the reels I recommended, which are most likely the ones included with the two tanks Charles recommended, are slightly easier to load with 120 film. They have wider flanges on the input end, which help a bit.

If you need to, you can use the reels I recommended in the tank you bought.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

That tank is just a smaller version of the one I linked to for you. It will work well, but it won't let you develop with two reels set to 120 size at the same time.

The Paterson reel included with it is good. I just find that the reels I recommended, which are most likely the ones included with the two tanks Charles recommended, are slightly easier to load with 120 film. They have wider flanges on the input end, which help a bit.

If you need to, you can use the reels I recommended in the tank you bought.

Yes Matt, that is exactly what I was going to ask, and do! Thanks for the info! Its ok if it fits one 120, since, i usually shoot one at a time, I'm not that comfortable yet!

 

[Dr Croubie]

The one thing to remember with Paterson tanks is that when you put the lid on, seal it all around, press in the middle of the lid and slightly lift up the edge until the air comes out (sort of like the way the 'Tupperware' thingy worked). Otherwise it might leak on you when you invert it, but this way it won't.

Also, the best advice I've ever heard about plastic reels is that before you load them, take them apart and run a pencil around the spirals, the extra graphite makes them load so much smoother (especially important for 120).

 

[RattyMouse]

The one thing to remember with Paterson tanks is that when you put the lid on, seal it all around, press in the middle of the lid and slightly lift up the edge until the air comes out (sort of like the way the 'Tupperware' thingy worked). Otherwise it might leak on you when you invert it, but this way it won't.

Also, the best advice I've ever heard about plastic reels is that before you load them, take them apart and run a pencil around the spirals, the extra graphite makes them load so much smoother (especially important for 120).

Paterson tanks are light sealed by the funnel insert, not by the lid. Unless of course there are Paterson systems I don't know about. But then how would you be able to add chemicals if the lid were the light seal???

 

[mwdake]

If you are going to use Paterson reels for 120 here is a tip to help load the film.

Cut a piece of the film box to be the same width as 120 film and about 2 or 3 inches long.

Before you go in the darkroom slide this piece of card along the reel tracks into the beginning of the reel but not past the little ball bearings. Now when in the darkroom take your film and slide it along the card until it is past the ball bearings and pull in a bit more then remove the card and load in the normal way. You see the card acts like a guide and makes those springy films easier to get started.

I most often reverse curl the first 1/2 inch or so of my film before loading to help with the springiness.
I still have the same bit of card I cut out of a Fuji box a couple of years ago, I only replace it if it gets lost or banged up.

 

[tokam]

If you are going to use Paterson reels for 120 here is a tip to help load the film.

Cut a piece of the film box to be the same width as 120 film and about 2 or 3 inches long.

Before you go in the darkroom slide this piece of card along the reel tracks into the beginning of the reel but not past the little ball bearings. Now when in the darkroom take your film and slide it along the card until it is past the ball bearings and pull in a bit more then remove the card and load in the normal way. You see the card acts like a guide and makes those springy films easier to get started.

I most often reverse curl the first 1/2 inch or so of my film before loading to help with the springiness.
I still have the same bit of card I cut out of a Fuji box a couple of years ago, I only replace it if it gets lost or banged up.

This idea sounds like a beauty.The extra width and thinner base of 120 frequently gives me grief in trying to start 120 on a Patterson reel.

With regards to using a pencil to place graphite in the reel guides, is mthere a risk of leaving graphite particles and dust in the reel which would cause problems post development
as 'dust' spots?

 

[Dr Croubie]

Paterson tanks are light sealed by the funnel insert, not by the lid. Unless of course there are Paterson systems I don't know about. But then how would you be able to add chemicals if the lid were the light seal???

I meant liquid seal, not light seal.
I've read many people reviewing the Paterson system: half of them say it leaks on them, half say it's fine. I've had a few leaks myself when I first started, but once I started purging the air tupperware-style I haven't lost a single drop.

 

[mwdake]

This idea sounds like a beauty.The extra width and thinner base of 120 frequently gives me grief in trying to start 120 on a Patterson reel.

I have been using it for many years and it really does help get the film started.

 

[MattKing]

Thin acrylic sheets cut to size, and processed sheet film cut to size also work.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

wow! many wonderful ideas and suggestions! I can't wait for my next film shoot and development, in fact, i might use the steel once more, since, i have no sense to wait until this Friday's arrival of my new system! I'm also in the thought processes of building a Scarecrow, so that I can shoot some Halloween type photo's!

 

[Truzi]

Even if you go plastic, practice in the light first. You can still run into problems. Practice a lot. You want it to be committed to memory, and nearly automatic, before you do it in the dark(bag). The idea is to understand what is going on with either type of reel, how to tell if something isn't going as it should, and how to do it without looking.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Even if you go plastic, practice in the light first. You can still run into problems. Practice a lot. You want it to be committed to memory, and nearly automatic, before you do it in the dark(bag). The idea is to understand what is going on with either type of reel, how to tell if something isn't going as it should, and how to do it without looking.

Truzi, This is sound advice, and truth! I have unfortunately seem to have a used system, that seems to be an incorrect size, as it won't load the 120 properly, no matter how I try, or view it! I assumed it were the right reel when I purchased it, but, since I had no clue, I used it anyhow, with tons of overlap, and bending! When I tried it again in light, I noticed that the size of the 120 surpassed that of the reel!

 

[Truzi]

Just a guess, but it might be a reel for 127 film. Would you say it's between 35mm and 120? If you ordered the plastic style, you should be able to adjust it's size for different films, which is very handy. (I prefer steel, but have and use both).

One thing that helps me with plastic is to grasp it, when ratcheting, so my thumbs help guide the film into the reel. There are tabs (guides?) the film goes under as it feeds into the slotted sides. Some reels have tiny tabs, and it is possible for the film to skip out once you feel comfortable enough to load quickly. I grasp the reels so my thumbs are "behind" these tabs, keeping the film down to the right level once it reaches the tabs.

Also, if you decide to use steel for 35mm, make sure it is the right "size." I've found a few reels that fit 24 exposures, but not 36. It's annoying to figure this out when you get near the end of the film.

 

[MattKing]

Truzi, This is sound advice, and truth! I have unfortunately seem to have a used system, that seems to be an incorrect size, as it won't load the 120 properly, no matter how I try, or view it! I assumed it were the right reel when I purchased it, but, since I had no clue, I used it anyhow, with tons of overlap, and bending! When I tried it again in light, I noticed that the size of the 120 surpassed that of the reel!

Are you saying that the film was too long for the reel, or too wide for the reel?

 

[Dr Croubie]

I was thinking 127, but with 14mm difference you'd definitely know it was the wrong size. And the other films listed on the wikipedia page for 120 (105, 117, 620) are all just slightly larger, so a reel for them should be, if anything, too big for 120, not too small.

If it's only just (ie 1-2mm) too small for 120 then I'm stumped, maybe someone swapped around bits of plastics until one fit together, even though they weren't made for each other?

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Are you saying that the film was too long for the reel, or too wide for the reel?

YES, MY 120 WAS TO WIDE!

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

I was thinking 127, but with 14mm difference you'd definitely know it was the wrong size. And the other films listed on the wikipedia page for 120 (105, 117, 620) are all just slightly larger, so a reel for them should be, if anything, too big for 120, not too small.

If it's only just (ie 1-2mm) too small for 120 then I'm stumped, maybe someone swapped around bits of plastics until one fit together, even though they weren't made for each other?

Dr. Croubie, This would be true, for a normal user, but, for me, well, I'm special! xD I guess I didn't get it yet, and I blamed user error, but, I also stubborn as well! xD

 

[Truzi]

Having not done this before, aRolleiBrujo may not have known how it was supposed to be. The first time I used steel I thought the film was supposed to be pushed through the same way it is ratcheted with plastic reels.

A simple cell phone picture with the film next to the reel may help us identify the reel.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

2014-08-05 22.10.11 by a.rodriguezpix, on Flickr





Americo J Rodriguez-27 by a.rodriguezpix, on Flickr

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Having not done this before, aRolleiBrujo may not have known how it was supposed to be. The first time I used steel I thought the film was supposed to be pushed through the same way it is ratcheted with plastic reels.

A simple cell phone picture with the film next to the reel may help us identify the reel.

20140805_222718 by a.rodriguezpix, on Flickr

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

EUREKA! I have not one, but TWO saved TMAX 400 exposures! That from that which I thought ruined, during my first caffenol development and film shoot period! Oh, Thank the FILM God's!

Americo J Rodriguez-31 by a.rodriguezpix, on Flickr